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K8 1000 Swingarm mod chain sprocket alignment


george 1100

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I've fitted a K8 1000 swingarm to my 91 7/11. Motor started out as a 1052 which I believe has a different countershaft to the 1127. Shorter I believe but correct me if I'm wrong. With the sprocket installed on the standard carrier, the alignment is a fair way off, say approx 20mm. 

I have a few ideas but am not real keen on a 20mm offset sprocket. I have a 13mm one and can take a max of 5mm off the carrier which leaves me out by 2mm. This then creates a problem with the chain guide which isn't so straight forward to move across 5mm

Any ideas from anyone that's be down this road?

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If you do have 20mm.

There are 5/8" off set sprockets. That is 15.875 mm

Then you can remove the sprocket carrier studs and machine off 3mm

And last, you can machine off 1.125 mm off the sprocket carrier inner spacer. You can machine up to 2mm before the sprocket touches and rubs on the hub of the wheel. Whatever you take off this spacer, it needs to be added to the left side outer spacer...

I can supply you with machined parts if need be.

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I would try 2 rear sprokets in 1 ..... you can get alluminum sprocketblanks such from PBI sprockets..... 530 pitch..... basically keep the center section to bolt to the 08' carrier....mill off the gear section.....leaving some overlap on the center part..... then  mill out the center section of the second sprocket to the O.D of the  wheel hub.....locate / center both pieces ..... drill through holes .... tap/thread inner section..... bolt both gear parts together......you now have an offset sprocket to work either inwards or outwards....depending on application .

Edited by no class
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The only thing I was not able to check out, (because I did not have a chain on the 1100 when I got it.) is to measure the chain to frame distance...

However, the GSXR1000 chain guide fits at about the same location as it does on the GSXR1100...  

I am still waiting on my high carbon steel GSXR1100 inner bearings spacers from my machine shop. 

Any chance you can align the rear axle equally, and take a rear view picture of your rear sprocket inside,  as level as possible where maybe you can see the front sprocket?

Does that make sense???

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On 9/10/2017 at 7:22 AM, no class said:

I would try 2 rear sprokets in 1 ..... you can get alluminum sprocketblanks such from PBI sprockets..... 530 pitch..... basically keep the center section to bolt to the 08' carrier....mill off the gear section.....leaving some overlap on the center part..... then  mill out the center section of the second sprocket to the O.D of the  wheel hub.....locate / center both pieces ..... drill through holes .... tap/thread inner section..... bolt both gear parts together......you now have an offset sprocket to work either inwards or outwards....depending on application .

Stacking the sprockets like that, you may have clearance issues with the tire. it would have to be done very precisely to avoid hop or side movement. It's NOT a bad idea. but you have to do it regularly and it will not be cheap. 

Moving the sprocket in 5mm by machining the sprocket carrier gives you about 1/4" clearance with a 520 chain.   You can go in a 1-2 mm more but it will require trimming the wheel hub and thinning the crush drive... This you do once unless you mess up your wheel...

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8 hours ago, george 1100 said:

I'll take some pics on the weekend

I wonder if there is a carrier from another model that will fit but has a 5mm smaller offset.....

Your wheel hub is what is giving you issues..... the 1000 is 6" and is wider at the hub..... the 600 is a 5.5" and has a alimmer hub..... the sprocket carriers are the same .

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16 hours ago, george 1100 said:

I'll take some pics on the weekend

I wonder if there is a carrier from another model that will fit but has a 5mm smaller offset...

 

 

You can machine the hub like my picture above... The limiting factor is the sprocket touching the wheel.

There is one other thing that you can do... But it gets the chain really close to the tire... Similar to what NO CLASS said before.

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  • 3 months later...
On ‎13‎/‎09‎/‎2017 at 2:08 PM, davecara said:

I'm running a K8 1000 arm in my EF with a 1052 engine so our measurements should be pretty similar.

im hoping to make some progress on mine over the next week so I'll keep an eye on this thread!

Just to add to this,

K8 swingarm, Gen2 busa wheel, 1052 engine.

Flipped the rear sprocket and used a 6mm spacer behind the front sprocket, 530 chain. All lines up perfect(y)

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Hi George, I had simlar issues on my 1991 m frame  . k7 arm , but only difference is my motor gsx14. Wheels first  with string method old ,but gold  and its Bob on. So I ran a shallower  sproket spacer and shaved my front talon sproket (Hard as hell) and rear Cush drive was shaved + rear Inner face of sproket . This enabled correct alignment of chain rubber and sproket alignment.  Lots and lots of measurements and lazer magnet. :tu:banana:

Edited by Fula28
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Simple thing to do is take the origional wheel/sprocket carrier and measure from the centre of the wheel to the inside face of the sprocket.

Iirc oil cooled stuff is about 100mm

And later k series stuff is about 110mm

Fairly certain the hubs on later 5.5 and 6 are the same, only difference is rim width. With the 5.5 you can get away with getting it down to around 100mm by whatever means and still have clearence from the rim/tyre

The 6" is a pain in the arse and not really worth bothering with. Stick a 180/60 on the 5.5.

Any stories of it all just bolted in and was straight with no mods is basically rubbish.

Using the later arms, i found you can get the wheel central by measuring and making your top hat swingarm spacers the right sizes to do it. Thhen youu can leave brake side alone completely. I take 5mm off the sprocket carrier/wheel and inner spacer, run a talon sprocket back to front and a 2mm spacer behind front sprocket. Then i just make up a 5mm longer spacer for the outside between swingarm and sprocket carrier.

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On 28/12/2017 at 6:07 AM, george 1100 said:

In saying all of this, did you guys aligning your rear wheel to the front wheel first. I found that  in order for the wheels to align the rear needs to move to the left about 8mm. The most the swingarm could move left was 4mm by backing off the axle adjusting nut. This makes chain alignment even worse

 

As  @MeanBean49said, I made tophats to put the swingarm slightly offset to centralise the wheel to the frame. Using an oil cooled engine too so I'm unsure what the alignment would be like with a proper EF engine. I mustve struck lucky with my wheel swingarm combo as theres wasn't any need for machining on the wheel. Just a few spacers to knockup (y)

FB9F9DDE-4378-4332-A6F9-2FAD54FE0963.jpeg

Edited by davecara
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