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Bales Tech Oil Filter Adapter


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It' a few dollars to be able to use much better oil filters. Besides automobile filters are far more commonly available than motorcycle filters. For me to get OEM Suzuki oil filters it is a 45 mile trip each way. The dealer wants $18.00 each. Sure I could get K&N, they have a very small filter medium, I would not want to use K&N oil filters. I could buy Fram oil filter at the local Walmart supermarket, I would definitely not want to use Fram oil filters on my motorcycles either.

To pick up Purolator Boss 14610 oil filters they are $10.00 and I can pick them up at the local auto parts store. The filters are 1" longer, they have much larger filter medium surface area. Meant for synthetic oils. Much better quality, especially for severe service. Just what I will be saving on the first few oil changes, it is worth the $13.50 investment.  


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Don't knock Fram or HiFlow - both good filters and both available in the US for about 9 bucks delivered to your door via the internet! I've used both together with OEM over the years and the engine can't tell the difference - oil does 6k miles, filter and oil get changed.............................and regular size filter comes off without faffing with exhaust headers!

Edited by Gixer1460
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Not sure it's needed dude - mind you I fitted expensive iridium spark plugs which aren't really needed either ! - last for a long time though and don't foul easily. We all buy stuff for our bikes that isn't really required though.

Auto oil stays in the engine for 10 -20k miles, my bike gets the oil and filter changed every 2000 miles (too early really) - a larger filter wouldn't be needed. Oil goes out of spec. with use, which would be hard on highly tuned bike engines, but it gets changed frequently on bikes. Once a bike engine is broken-in there's very little debris - some clutch dust and carbon, if you change oil/filter regularly 2 - 4k miles, I don't think there's anything to be gained. I use Suzuki or Hi-flow filters, not that Suzuki make the oil filters........ on old and newer bikes, never a problem with wear. There's no problem with standard filters or good after market ones as G1460 says, marketing men for products might claim otherwise.

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Have you read technical reviews on oil filters? A lot of interesting information... They open up the oil filters and examine how they are put together. They compare filter medium element including the surface area. They inspect how the filter medium is secured in place. they test the bypass operation and the anti drain back valve... All in all some oil filters are better than others. 

If I was riding my bike like I drive my car, then maybe I would consider a cheap brand... But even then, I get premium filters and premium fluids for all my vehicles. I consider That I ride in severe conditions because I ride in desert high temperatures and there is dust everywhere. Besides that, I ride my bikes a bit hard... To me, It does not cost much more to buy the best products available. Why buy the cheapest???


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  • 1 year later...

UPDATE- see edit #2 below for workable solutions.

Joined here to get some info on this now non-existent part, and to hopefully create a path for others that want to use something similar. Since this thread is relevant, I'm adding to it vs starting a new one.  I sent an email to the CalSci place that says they are developing one, but have not heard from them. My 1992 GSX1100G has added Prosport oil pressure & temp gauges and I need a place to mount the senders. The pressure sender sticks out too far to install on the main gallery on the right side of the engine, so I'm looking into using a filter adapter (sandwich) plate that has the 1/8 NPT openings in place. Since I have adapted AN fittings to the front oil cooler lines, it looks like I have enough room to mount the 3" diameter plate there.

To mount it, it attaches to the existing pipe where the filter attaches. Since our bikes use an ultra-fine and unique 20x1.0mm filter thread, no one makes an adapter for that one. Standard thread here is 20x1.5 with other SAE and metric options available. The 20x1.5 filters generally use the same base/gasket dimensions based upon my research at the Wix filter site. My first question was what is the thread size on the block end of this adapter? The adapter is still available as Suzuki PN 16591-06B01. In lieu of buying one, I pulled one from a 1991 GSX1100G parts bike I have. I found the block thread was a common 3/4-16. The adapter is about 1.25" long. I took some pics of it and will attach them for reference.

Now that info is known, the next issue involves finding an adapter that is 3/4-16 x 20x1.5. I looked up some common Japanese bike adapters and here is what I found:
Most Hondas use PN 90019-MB0-000, which uses a 20x1.5 filter. The block end is unknown. It looks similar to the Suzuki part.
Most Kawasakis use PN 32033-1535, which is 20x1.5 straight thread. No go on that one.
Most Yamahas use either 90401-20008-00 or 90401-20007-00, with the latter being used on mainly boat engines from what I can tell. These both are 20x1.5 on the filter side, and unknown but different on the block side. These unlike the Hondas or Suzukis have a hex fitting to remove & replace them.

My plan is to pickup these adapters and measure them. Best case scenario, one of them will be 3/4-16 and screw right in. If not, then a pan B will be in order, perhaps just a length of 3/4-16. The drawback there for usage w/o the plate would be finding a filter with the proper base size. I will update as I make progress on this project.



While browsing, I learned the AN8 fittings use the 3/4-16 thread needed. To use this, the AN seat could be cut off flush with the threads. There are a number of aluminum adapters to adapt AN8 (1/2" JIC) to M20x1.5. Finding one in steel was a little more challenging, but I found one here:

To test this idea, I used an old AN8 to 1/2 NPT adapter I had in my shop, and installed it on my parts bike motor. I was able to thread it in perfectly, and had to use a ratchet & socket to tighten it. Since the fitting has a hex, it was simple to use a 7/8" or 22mm socket to install & remove it. I'm unsure how the hex would affect those that just want to run a filter though. It may prevent the filter from sealing. The Bales adapter has no hex, so I think this may be the case. If I end up trying one of these, I'll connect an OEM filter to it and see how that affects sealing.


EDIT #2- Solved

I found the Trans-Dapt #1034 oil filter nipple on Eblag for about $6 shipped. It's a 3/4-16 part with segregated sections and no hex just like the OEM part. I downloaded Wix filter data since they offer it by thread size, and found there are more compatible filters in 3/4-16 than M20-1.5. Since my adapter plate has both 3/4-16 and M20-1.5 fittings, I'm going to try this part.

While browsing, I did find what appears to be a 3/4-16 x M20-1.5 adapter made by Mocal, PN TN3/4XM20. The only place it is available is BAT Inc. in Sarasota,  Florida, a site that deals mainly in imported cars (BAT is British American Transfer). The page with the adapter is here (PDF file). That site does not accept online orders, you have to call them. They also have a handy page here (PDF file, pages 12-14) that lists filter thread sizes for many years & makes of cars as well as filter sizes by engine model.


Wix allows you to search filters by thread size here. From the first drop-down, select the Lube, Hyd, Trans, P. Steering, Torq. Converter line , then select Spin-on Lube, Hyd, Trans, P. Steering from the next drop-down, then select the size from the page that loads.

For 3/4-16 filters, the Wix 51395 is less than .2" longer than the OEM Suzuki filter, it has the same gasket dimensions, and the bypass PSI is listed as 8 vs 8-11 for the OEM. They also make a 57890 that is .6" shorter, but has the same OD and gasket. I will likely try that one since my plate will add about an inch to the height.

For 20-1.5 filters, the Wix 51358 is the exact same size and gasket data, but it has the same 8 vs 8-11 bypass spec.

Either of these can be crossed over to your favorite brand of filter, I was just interested in dimensions and gasket sizes.









Edited by 1100G
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  • 2 weeks later...

The filter plate arrived and I had to grind one side of it to clear. I used the Trans-dapt #1034 nipple and it was a perfect fit. The nipple was the same size as the original part, so it can be used as-is if you just want a better filter selection. The nipple is 3/4-16 thread and has a section that stops it from going into the block too far. I applied some green loctite. I'll attach a couple of pics. My oil pressure sender was too large so it will be connected to the main cap on the right side of the engine. My oil cooler hoses were modified for AN fittings and hoses, so I have more clearance than the original setup.







Edited by 1100G
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Interesting combination abit overly complicated IMO? Question why not add banjos or 90 deg. elbows, direct to the aeroquip and avoid all the multiple fittings? How does it all fit with the exhaust - all looks a bit tight ie. can filter be removed with headers in place?

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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:

Interesting combination abit overly complicated IMO? Question why not add banjos or 90 deg. elbows, direct to the aeroquip and avoid all the multiple fittings? How does it all fit with the exhaust - all looks a bit tight ie. can filter be removed with headers in place?

If you look at the 2nd and 3rd pics, you can see some 1/8 NPT brass plugs in the Aeroquip lines. I tried that, but the sender blocked most of the line. This sender needs to have oil flowing around it to work properly (see 5th pic, it is in hand tight, wrench tight allowed more of the tip to be in the oil flow). I found the other two openings in the thicker part did not allow the tip to be exposed. Before this I had it in a 1/4" pipe tee that was fed by a -3 AN hose off the main gallery. While the pressure gauge worked OK there, the temp gauge did not. This plate seemed like a good budget solution, plus the research on the OEM nipple can help those that just want a wider filter selection.


When I test fitted it before pulling the exhaust, everything cleared OK. Use of the shorter filter would only help here. I have a 51348 on for the pics, which is what my lawnmower uses. It's about the same size as the stock filter.

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1 hour ago, jonny1bump said:

I would be more worried about the oil pump pick up, have you seen the state of most oil pumps stripped after some time in service.

And these are £400 a pop.


I don't see any significant difference here. The plate adds about 1" to the path of the oil coming and going and no significant restrictions.

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