Antman Posted June 2, 2017 Share Posted June 2, 2017 That looks nice. Dont ditch the airbox, Im running the same carbs as yours 36mm on my 85 blue and white and it's been a nightmare to get it to run right it's now running a factory pro jet kit. You should also replace the emulsion tubes as they get ovalised from the needles. I've got a set of brake lines for sale if your interested? Clear braided made in Uk. Ant Quote Link to comment
Dazzler Posted June 2, 2017 Author Share Posted June 2, 2017 I'll be keeping the airbox installed and am hoping the setup in it was working ok with 100 main jets. Was thinking of getting a factory pro kit but will see if i can dial it in first... Quote Link to comment
Dazzler Posted June 11, 2017 Author Share Posted June 11, 2017 (edited) Dropped the exhaust into an electrolysis setup and pretty happy with the result. It was submerged for about 26 hours total. Tank is currently being done and will start on mid pipe once that's done. Edited June 11, 2017 by Dazzler 6 Quote Link to comment
Dazzler Posted June 23, 2017 Author Share Posted June 23, 2017 Carbs back together, exhaust cleaned and clearances checked. Have to grab a new battery and oil tomorrow and hoping to bolt it back together and fire it up. Fingers crossed. Oh will an ohlins shock for an RGV fit/work on this. Could it possibly just be spring that makes it different to a gsxr one? Kinda clutching at straws to hopefully get it to fit i think. Have a couple of track days booked at phillip island in november and plan on taking the purple 88 to at least one of them. Lots to do before then tho. Quote Link to comment
Dazzler Posted July 2, 2017 Author Share Posted July 2, 2017 Anyone got a pic of carbs in or a hose diagram? Where does the vacuum hose from the fuel tap connect to the carbs? I connected an aux fuel tank and tried to start it. It fired up pretty quick, but was revving it's guts out so I stopped it, now I can't get it to fire up again. Haven't had much time to look into it properly tho, too busy with real work... Quote Link to comment
Captain Chaos Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 from the factory Suzuki manual Quote Link to comment
Captain Chaos Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 this is all I have. Vacuum line from the tap should be connected to the top of #4 carb, the other three carbs have a cap on the connection. 1 Quote Link to comment
Captain Chaos Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 last. Digitalised 17 years ago when I had a 750J. Quote Link to comment
Gammaboy Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 Mick Hones is alive and well for what it's worth. Quote Link to comment
Dazzler Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 Thanks for the pics and info. All the carb vacuum ports are covered plus i have a hose coming off a carb boot, what is that for? Below is pic of my current setup. White T intersection goes to fuel bottle, breather hoses(?) sticking up toward camera and the skinny hose with white marks near oil breather hose comes from carb boot... Quote Link to comment
Upshotknothole Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 The hose coming off the carb boot should go to the vacuum port on the petcock. 1 Quote Link to comment
Dazzler Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 Should that vacuum hose be blocked off while i have the aux fuel bottle attached or does it not matter? Quote Link to comment
Upshotknothole Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 1 minute ago, Dazzler said: Should that vacuum hose be blocked off while i have the aux fuel bottle attached or does it not matter? Yup, blocked off. You'll have a nasty vacuum leak with it open. 1 Quote Link to comment
Dazzler Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 Thanks, will block it off and try fire it up again...when i manage to get home at a decent hour. Quote Link to comment
Dazzler Posted July 19, 2017 Author Share Posted July 19, 2017 I'm having no luck getting it started. It cranks (new battery), it has spark (new plugs), it has fuel (cleaned carbs, new o-rings and jets) but it doesn't even sound close to firing up. Valve clearances checked twice, exhaust on tight as are carbs Left coil connected to #1 and #4, right coil connected to #2 and #3. What am i missing? Quote Link to comment
Upshotknothole Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 Verify you have spark and fuel? Pull a plug and hold it with the lead on it against the engine while cranking. You should also be able to smell fuel while cranking, or pull a plug and it should be wet. When you checked the valves, did you pull the cams? If the cams are 180 out the engine will turn over fine, but you'll feel it sucking on the exhaust rather than blowing. CDI hooked up? 1 Quote Link to comment
Dazzler Posted July 19, 2017 Author Share Posted July 19, 2017 CDI connected. Pulled plugs and all sparked against engine, i think all were wet, i wiped em off as soon as i got them out. Didn't pull cams when i checked valves so i guess they are ok unless previous owner put them in wrong way. I am thinking something is still not right with carbs even though i renewed a lot of bits. Sigh i guess i'll check them again. Quote Link to comment
colinworth79 Posted July 20, 2017 Share Posted July 20, 2017 my 750L I had a similar problem where I had fuel and compression and plugs sparked when held to the head but would not run . Replaced the plugs and went straight away . My bike always need full choke to start from cold then knocked back to half way just after its running. 1 Quote Link to comment
Dazzler Posted July 22, 2017 Author Share Posted July 22, 2017 Thanks for input guys. It lives!!! Swapped the vacuum hose from where it was (when i bought it) on carb boot to where diagrams in manual shows it on carb. Boom! Fired up, twist throttle, nothing... I'd forgotten to put throttle cable back into switch block after replacing carbs. After letting it run for a few mins, switched it off and put throttle cable back into switch block, bike wouldn't start again...pulled throttle out, bike started again... Anyway, bike starts now with throttle cable in but revs real high. I loosened cable a bit and the idle adjuster, revs lowered a bit but still revving pretty high. Happy to at least get it running and will look into it more another time. Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 5 hours ago, Dazzler said: Anyway, bike starts now with throttle cable in but revs real high. I loosened cable a bit and the idle adjuster, revs lowered a bit but still revving pretty high. Happy to at least get it running and will look into it more another time. Suck eggs time - back out idle adjustment screw completely so not touching the throttle arm, then loosen / tighten throttle cable at twist grip until you get about 2mm of freeplay in the cable, then adjust the idle adjustment screw till the throttle blade is just cracked open. Start and if it idles low then screw the idle screw in a bit till correct ...... usually 800 - 1100 rpm depending on the bike. 1 Quote Link to comment
Dazzler Posted July 23, 2017 Author Share Posted July 23, 2017 (edited) Thanks say Gixer1460. Will give it a shot. lol, Your name auto changed to 'say what now?' when i shortened it. Edited July 23, 2017 by Dazzler Dodgy autocorrect Quote Link to comment
Dazzler Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017 http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/index.php?/topic/5443-cop-coil-wiring-diagram/ So i don't have to keep searching Quote Link to comment
Dazzler Posted August 4, 2017 Author Share Posted August 4, 2017 COP coils and connectors on their way. Bought an S1000rr shock for it, but it's gone missing in the mail...apparently. Installed a new throttle cable the other day and noticed the one removed has two nuts at carb end where the new one only has one, plus it is slightly longer. Doesn't lock into position like the old one did, has a bit of movement. Hopefully can get out to the garage Sunday to sort it and get it tuned correctly. Still aiming to get it to Phillip Island at one of the track days I have booked in November. Quote Link to comment
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