Advice neeed on Nitrous.

[Tony H]

Right folks, I have a standard Bandit 1200 motor with 36mm RS carbs (no airbox) in a long and low chassis that I will be using for a bit of straight lining. I want to go with nitrous and if it works out I will beef up the motor  as time goes on. (I've got spare bandit and GSXR motors). 
So where do I start? 

Cheers

 

[Gixer1460]

How fast do you want to go ie times and how much money you got? Once you establish that we can give you directions as the cat can be declothed many ways!

[Reinhoud]

21 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

How fast do you want to go ie times and how much money you got? Once you establish that we can give you directions as the cat can be declothed many ways!

Your second question should be the first.

[Tony H]

OK .  fast as I can on stock motor using nitrous, cost no problem, Then I want to build a big block motor and head for the 9's.

[Gixer1460]

10 hours ago, Tony H said:

OK .  fast as I can on stock motor using nitrous, cost no problem, Then I want to build a big block motor and head for the 9's.

'cost no problem' is a bad thing to say talking about nitrous, cause you can / will spend lots! 

1. Nitrous doesn't particularly like stock cast pistons....40 - 60hp single stage hits are rolling the dice - it has no affinity for forged pistons either but they can take more abuse. Plug tips will vanish on gas - go hotter and make sure ign. system is up to it. Will make 11 - 10 second bikes. The more compression an engine has the less nitrous it can stand without problems.

2. Next level is a progressive wet system - Schnitz / NLR / WON all do kits and WON Pulsoids are reckoned to be the best for pulsed applications but Trevor is a knob to deal with! These will handle 50 - 150hp additions and need proper engine work - a nitrous is not a NA engine and more like a turbo build.

3. Next is Dry nitrous if you have a fuel injected bike. Less common but capable of serious power. Talk to Brad O'Connor at BTC Moto for installations / kits / advice.

4. Top of the tree are Superstreet / Funnybike installs - Very, Very spendy and highly tempremental. Will eat pistons for no apparent reasons, melt valves, trash cylinder heads / pistons / rods etc. The newest WON REVO systems are very controllable and IMO well worth the money - but you still have to deal with Trevor LOL!

Depending on the bike and it's set-up you can go 9's with item #2 but expect to change a plug every few passes, head gaskets, valves and valve seats get nibbled maybe every couple of meetings and potentially a piston or two every year. I crewed with Kev Charman in SSB for two years with his nitrous bandit, then his Compbike (won and came 2nd in ACU, 1st and 2nd years entered) then his FunnyBike (won and came 2nd in ACU, 1st and 2nd years entered) - I didn't tune the nitrous but certainly knew what was going on - good and bad!

[Tony H]

Excellent advice. I am going to avoid nitrous for now and just get used to the bike on a few RWYB's. I am best chucking some more cash at my GSXR turbo and getting that sorted for next year.              Thanks

 

 

Edited April 30, 2017 by Tony H
uploaded before finished

[Ragerover]

I rn nitrous  for years on my Gsxr 1100

50 shot wet with no issues single hit NOS kit

thats only 12.5 bhp per cylender

saying that if I did it again I would go WON straight away that's what I use on both bikes now

much better quality more tuneable and upgrade able 

[Reinhoud]

Isn't it easier to have a turbo charger then? Or do you get more power with nitrous?

[Gixer1460]

12 hours ago, Reinhoud said:

Isn't it easier to have a turbo charger then? Or do you get more power with nitrous?

Its horses for courses! A turbo has relatively long, gentle spool with a big rush - ideal for road use. Racing turbo's requires being an animal on the throttle to build boost before launch or race is over before turbo spools. Simple nitrous is an instant whack - press button and power goes from whatever to whatever + 60hp virtually instantly - nitrous on a dyno is a larf as it'll shock the wheel into wheelspin. Racing nitrous is still a hit - even the progressives as you maybe starting with only 25% and ramping to 100% in 2 seconds but that could be 60hp upto 240hp increase in 2 seconds - its a rush!

Turbo's are acknowledged as being 'softer' on an engine but over an 1/8th mile very little will beat a sorted nitrous bike.

[Reinhoud]

On 5/10/2017 at 6:03 AM, Gixer1460 said:

Its horses for courses! A turbo has relatively long, gentle spool with a big rush - ideal for road use. Racing turbo's requires being an animal on the throttle to build boost before launch or race is over before turbo spools. Simple nitrous is an instant whack - press button and power goes from whatever to whatever + 60hp virtually instantly - nitrous on a dyno is a larf as it'll shock the wheel into wheelspin. Racing nitrous is still a hit - even the progressives as you maybe starting with only 25% and ramping to 100% in 2 seconds but that could be 60hp upto 240hp increase in 2 seconds - its a rush!

Turbo's are acknowledged as being 'softer' on an engine but over an 1/8th mile very little will beat a sorted nitrous bike.

Ah, thanks.

I thought it was something like that, but wasn't sure..

[Duckndive]

After the demise of the turbo motors bottom end We ran a stock high miles bandit motor in Little Pauls outlaw ...

Dyna 2000 ignition and coils....Dyna 2 step...Minimal Loom...Stock CV's with larger mains...No Airbox... V&H Pro Stock Headers

Trev's  "High power" venom injectors and Solenoid's + Maximister controller and holly fuel pump...As Ian said the solenoid's are the best but Trev can be a cock and his people skills are crap

over a couple of years it was given variations of a 25 - 75 shot on various ramps running many mid to low 9,s and the odd 8,9 .....in the quest for a mid 8 we gave it a 100 shot which it did not swallow and came back on 3 cylinders ..we expected that we had melted a slug and slimed the bore ...on taking the plug;s out we had 3 black and one wet but no sign of piston dust ..so 4 new plugs and viola it ran as sweet as before .....we concluded that it just could not swallow the 100 shot ....Now while the Maximiser has loads of options it did start to become a pain it would work fine in test mode every time but in race mode it was hit and miss if it worked ..so after chasing "looking for" non existent wiring fault's ..it was disconnected and the motor given a 75 shot from the get go.....viola normal service returned and a 8.85......

A few points to note ..The bike is all steel but very light and minimalist there is a very £££ rear shock the jockey weighs 2/5ths of f##k all we put stones in his leathers to stop him blowing away and more importantly he is very consistent from burnout to launch ,,,which is done from being held on the 2 step at 8000 - 9000 ...and throwing the clutch .....and off it goes ....

Now I don't recommend this route and we have lucky not killing the motor......but it worked.............no race gas involved just super pi55 from the pump and the motor is still in one piece under the bench the next step is the built 1340 motor that Paul acquired a couple of years ago....but as he has been doing other stuff since "read trick car"  I need to re-motivate him at some point.................... 

 

 

Edited June 2, 2017 by Duckndive

[Ragerover]

Good thing about nitrous  is that it's easily transferable between bikes

also Trev from WON. What can I say great bloke loads of knowledge but some days I could fuckin kill him. As said above no people skills and a right royal pain in the arse who can't help but blow his own trumpet. Other days helpful and easy going depends on whether he's took his meds I'd guess 

But his kit is light years above NOS