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1052 rebuild


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If you want to keep the airbox then the 34mm standard carbs would be a good start.  The 36mm ones from later models might go.  If the airbox is going then perhaps 36 or 38mm RS Mikunis but they might be a bit of a handful if you are not racing but using it on the road.  As for power, who knows.  Depends on the cam profile, the cam timing, and most of all what you want to use it for.  For road use I'd go for a good flat torque curve and perhaps squander some potential top end that you could only actually use when you'd gone beyond the point where they throw the key away if you get caught.  You know my 860 only had the standard 750 slabby cams and bored to 33mm VM29s on it plus I very lightlly cleanerd up the ports.  It was making 108bhp at 10,400rpm and 58lbft at 8,400with over 55lbft from 6500 to 10500. Then I made a change to the cam timing and immediately knocked 1.25 seconds off my best lap time (1:04.25 to 1:03.0) so I'd guess it ended up at maybe 110 to 112 bhp.  Who knows what the 1052 will make maybe 135 - 140bhp and 70 to 75lbft.  But don't get tied up on the numbers, see what it feels like.  I know a lad that builds very successful GSXR race bikes who has never had them anywhere near a dynamometer.  He just goes by feel.

 

Edited by canamant
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No.  The bodies are OK.  Take the face plates off the carbs and get them turned in a lathe to make the hole 33mm.  he new hole will be concentric with the bellmouth so the lathe will remove 4mm from the top and nothing from the bottom.  Trust me it works perfectly.  You will need anti-tamper 6 point torques/star driver to get the face plates off.  Float bowl off, accelerator pump nozzles out, carb tops off and throttle shaft /slide screws removed to get face plate off.  Take you an hour or so.

 

Ant

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