Ex. Pipe studs.

[Swiss Toni]

What's a good fix for the usual problems with seized/broken studs? I seem to remember someone advised fitting stainless studs and brass nuts! Anyone tried it? Did it solve the problem?

[strima]

I used stainless studs and nuts on mine with no issues.

[Sheep]

I used brass nuts on a turbo manifold due to the heat/cooling cycle...also,like Strima,i have used stainless.Just remember to use plenty of copper slip to prevent galling.

[Gixer1460]

The advantage using brass or copper nuts with stainless or steel studs is they don't gall and can't be over-tightened but I have used normal stainless with coppaslip to avoid seizure equally successfully.

[Swiss Toni]

And no problems with the Copperslip melting off ?

 

[Sheep]

No....It will cook off slightly but still retain enough on the threads to ease removal of the nut.I use it all the time.Messy but helps especially if you are removing components regularly.

My workmate hardly uses the stuff.....then wonders why he is grinding nuts off later...doofus.

[Ben Slabby]

As above, stainless studs with brass nuts. Absolutely no problems.  If you're gonna buy em on "that" site, search for M8 grub screws, they're tons cheaper.  

[Ben Slabby]

Worst case scenario with the brass nuts is a nut splitter or hacksaw part way through, they're soft enough to cut off if you have to.  

[Oilyspanner]

I've been using Ti allen bolts instead of studs/nuts for a few years, never a problem, just don't over-tighten - I just hate studs breaking off, they tend to be forgotten about until one gets stuck, this way I can clean the threads each time the exhaust comes off. If the threads ever weaken I'll have inserts fitted.

[banoffee]

I love spring-fit downpipes.

[markfoggy]

Here's a bit of unusual knowledge from the Endurance world.

Now I'd always use Drilled Ti bolts and then lockwire them, No need to crank them in very hard and risk damaging the threads.

The clever bit is to fit accurate spacers between the Flange and the head. This will make sure that you can't distort the flange as you fit it, slip ins' with springs or not.

The real benefit comes if you drop the bike. Any decent landing on the end can has a habit of trying to distort the flanges at the head. which are now much more stable.

The interesting thing here is that it enhances engine reliability. Small exhaust leaks at the cylinder head are not good news. If you have one or more exhaust leaks here you get weird  temperatures at the exhaust valves and over time this can lead to Valve trouble.

Probably not significant on a road engine, but critical if you are pushing the tune a bit.

and all for the price of a small stack of washers or a bit of ally thick wall tube. 

It's all in the detail.

[Oilyspanner]

Interesting stuff MF !

[Quist]

On 7 oktober 2016 at 7:57 PM, Swiss Toni said:

And no problems with the Copperslip melting off ?

 

I never use copperslip paste anymore, better use the ceramic grease. Works excellent when you use stainless bolts in alu and is heat resistant up to 1000+ degrees.

[Gixerjonah]

Totally agree with Quist. when using stainless bolts ceramic grease is far better than copperslip. Have been using it for a while now with not a prob.

[Oilyspanner]

Another vote for ceramic grease, first used it when installing an exhaust on a GSXR1000K6 at work - must be 10 years ago then, the bike was new - it's good stuff for hot areas, slide fit systems etc.

[Swiss Toni]

Ceramic Grease? That's a new one for me! First time I've ever heard of it! What is it, and where can I get some?

[Quist]

In English: http://www.zettex.com/products/aerosols/14-lubrication/137-mp800-pressure-pack

 

But almost every brand got ceramic grease nowadays, Eurol, Putoline, Zettex, Kroon Oil, and so on.

[canamant]

Or you could use Alumslip, good enough for a 12 month heat soak at 350C  and still comes undone. 

[Gsxr750m]

Copper slip and stainless Allen bolts works for me up to now , will try ceramic grease next time see how it goes