Swirl's Harris

[melkweg]

I suppose it depends what you are used to, but I don't find them too cramped (I'm a 5' 8'' short ectomorph with a moderate beer belly, dodgy knees and hip). There is a decent oldskool reach to bars, and footpegs are a bit close but don't give me immediate cramp like a Katana. Closest comparison for riding position is  a Jota I would say. A modern(ish) 750 sports bike feels like it was designed by Frankie Dettori compared to the Magnum. Keep posting the pics.

[Gammaboy]

32 minutes ago, melkweg said:

(I'm a 5' 8'' short ectomorph

You're a Ghost?

[nlovien]

the seat pad angle is key to getting a good fit  - if you have it slopping fwd too much ( which may be more cosmetically appealing ) you end up with too much weight on your arms to bars - get it so your supported by the seat without having to constantly push yirself back

[clivegto]

ZXR 750 swinging arm, was thinking maybe cut the brace of and weld it to the extended slabby  arm. Was surprised how heavy the arm was so fitting the hole arm & extending that is a no go. 

[Swirl]

looks good all blacked out

[Mar71n]

On ‎17‎/‎05‎/‎2017 at 6:25 PM, clivegto said:

 

The angle on the seat unit matches the feature on the tank a treat

 

[clivegto]

That's what I thought the seat unit complements the tank. 

Got some head bearings so fitted some forks I had leaning up in the corner of the shed. Will not be using these just to stand it up to see if a big oil boiler engin will fit ok. I don't see any reason why not as the last engine it had was a 7.5 oil boiler but will find out tomorrow.

[markfoggy]

Definitely liking that position for the seat unit better, hides the rear loop.

You could gain about 25mm height and get the tank fit even better with some Close cell Neoprene glued on top of the original foam.

A good seat cover tailor would find it no issue to cover it.

[Mar71n]

18 hours ago, clivegto said:

That's what I thought the seat unit complements the tank. 

Got some head bearings so fitted some forks I had leaning up in the corner of the shed. Will not be using these just to stand it up to see if a big oil boiler engin will fit ok. I don't see any reason why not as the last engine it had was a 7.5 oil boiler but will find out tomorrow.

Friend of mine had GSX R 1100 motor in a Harris, the problem he had was chain run as the original GSX motor was wider. If I remember right he solved it with a dished drive sprocket so he could get the engine on the centre line of the frame & have a decent width rear wheel. There was a engine height issue as well as the chain was pulling down on the swinging arm pivot which effected the suspension.

The joys of special building.

Edited May 21, 2017 by Mar71n

[fatblokeonbandit]

Thats exactly the same frame as my old mag2, I put a 1216 oily engine, and at other times a b12 and a power screen engine in there, 5.5 inch rear and no issues with the chaiin run, i had to fit a plastic runner to the bottom frame tube as the chain just touched it when i sat my fat arse on it and went over a big bump and it unoladed the shock

 

[clivegto]

@fatblokeonbandit was your old harris frame like this at the back ?

[fatblokeonbandit]

pretty much, subframe was different but the main bits were the same..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[nlovien]

i'm no guru on this - ref: rear positive/ negative squat but I aim to set the front sprocket centre such that when the suspension is flat the wheel spindle to swing arm pivot to sprocket centre lines up, i.e. on a typical set up with a reasonable bit of swing arm droop, if you take a line from the wheel spindle through the swing arm pivot, the sprocket centre is 10/15mm below this line ( copied from the master frame builder Mr Peckitt ), once running you can make changes to how the squat works by a few things

Change the sprockets - i.e. keep the same ratio = this changes the load line through the chain - 1 tooth up at front + 3 teeth more at back, or 1 less and 3 less, you get the jist

raise / lower the initial swing arm droop and or where the front forks sit in the yokes - this again can change the load line + it can raise / lower the COG

if you have eccentric rear wheel adjusters - you got 3 choices to play with - on the centre line, eccentric top and eccentric bottom - ok yi got to play with chain slack / sprocket sizes to find the sweet spot

then you can muck about with wheel sizes / tyre aspect ratio ( the handling of my mag3 was transformed from a lazy old school feel that needed lots of counter steer when power out of corners to one of the sharpest yet stable and neutral bikes i've owned when I raised the rear, dropped the front - and stuck a fireblade 16" front wheel on her ( much better than a 17" 120)

[clivegto]

Thanks verry much for the pics FB I feel your pain fitting s big oilly boiler to your latest harris these ones are bad enough.

After spinning around North Yorkshire on the scratcher for a bit, started to put my mock up motor together. Really didn't think it was going to fit the hsrris at first but it does . Sat drinking a beer looking at it now .

[clivegto]

Chain did eat through the arm that was in before, it did look steep in the pics I have seen.

[fatblokeonbandit]

Fitting the engine to the mag 2 was childs play compared to the F1 thingy But life would be boring if we did the easy things the easy,,

I cant remember who it was, but some clever bugger on here years ago recommended using 10-15 degrees down angel of the dangle between the swinger pivot and rear wheel spindle, ive stuck to that and its worked well so far

[Dezza]

8 hours ago, fatblokeonbandit said:

Thats exactly the same frame as my old mag2, I put a 1216 oily engine, and at other times a b12 and a power screen engine in there, 5.5 inch rear and no issues with the chaiin run, i had to fit a plastic runner to the bottom frame tube as the chain just touched it when i sat my fat arse on it and went over a big bump and it unoladed the shock

 

The original Harris Magnum 2 frame kits came with a nylon block that clips onto that frame tube to prevent the chain sawing through it. My bike still has it fitted.

[clivegto]

22 minutes ago, Dezza said:

The original Harris Magnum 2 frame kits came with a nylon block that clips onto that frame tube to prevent the chain sawing through it. My bike still has it fitted.

have you got a pic ?

[clivegto]

Got the tank rubbers for the frame today & a gsxr 1000 k8 swinging arm £35 deliverd. I like this arm as its light & the top bracing looks good to fasen the shock to.

[clivegto]

Bit of inner tube for the front & back tank rubbers for now. K8 arm has 22mm spindle harris one 20mm also close to the frame width so only needs new top hat spacors, chain run will need sorting out a bit. Am happy with seat hight although the seat unit does not cover the sub frame. Don't think this matters as to me it's all about the frame.

Edited May 22, 2017 by clivegto

[kiwi]

Clive cheaper way to get tank rubbers is buy Hoover vacuum cleaner drive belts.

 can't remember exact numbers of hand.

[clivegto]

1 hour ago, kiwi said:

Clive cheaper way to get tank rubbers is buy Hoover vacuum cleaner drive belts.

 can't remember exact numbers of hand.

Yes I know, but I do not know which ones ?

[Dezza]

I got a front tank rubber at the Stafford show, exactly the same as the one supplied by Harris, for 2 or 3 quid a couple of years back. One of the stalls in Bingley Hall that is there every year, and is also regularly at Newark jumble.

 

Here are pictures of the  frame protector that came with the Harris frame kit. As you can see it is worn down one side but roating it around the frame rail a bit means the chain then rubs on a fresh bit on nylon.

 

Edited May 23, 2017 by Dezza

[clivegto]

How does that fastern to the frame @Dezza

[Blubber]

Have you fitted some carbs and filters to it already?

 

would be nice to know if thats fits too