bigpants Posted May 23 Posted May 23 Hey everyone. So I'm trying to revive an old slabby with an equally old power screen engine that has only done 10k miles . I couldn't fit the air box from either and the bike ran terrible with pods. I got a dynojet stage 3 and it runs loads better. In fact fairly normally for the first two miles or so and then it feels like it's running out of fuel. I've replaced the tap , cdi and coils and they didn't make a difference. The running out of fuel symptom is very similar to how it felt before the dynojet kit was fitted. Could this still be a set up issue , maybe temperature related or would you think that if it worked for two miles or so it's unlikely to still be carb set related ? TIA Quote
Blubber Posted May 23 Posted May 23 Can still be the pick ups, a bad connection inside one of the connectors or a blocked fuel tank vent? Quote
bigpants Posted May 23 Author Posted May 23 Definitely not tank related , I tried a spare dummy tank with a high flow tap and it made no difference. How would pick ups effect this , interested to know as I have a spare engine. Quote
bigpants Posted May 24 Author Posted May 24 I changed the pick up over which was not easy as someone had filled the tunnel it goes through with spray glue (on the spare engine). Went out and the bike was the best it's ever been . I was sure it was fixed . Then after a few miles the same missing and stuttering behaviour came back. At one point cylinders 2 and 3 cooled a bit and I got some weird rev jumps on the cheap inductive tacho. Also this time I was almost always able to ride through the problem. So not fixed but I've definitely disturbed whatever the faulty part is. Now do I got the old pick up and test again before anything else ? Quote
Gixer1460 Posted May 24 Posted May 24 Two things that haven't been mentioned - plug leads and / or plugs! Both can break down with heat and the latter - possibly fake NGK's if that is the brand of choice? 1 Quote
Blubber Posted May 24 Posted May 24 The Suzuki manuals or even the Clymer manuals have sections to diagnose the main electrical component. Buy or download the manual and go from there. From this side of the screen it is difficult to diagnose the issue. Unless you want to play parts bingo... measuring with a multimeter to confirm the components are good would be my next move. 2 Quote
wraith Posted May 24 Posted May 24 I've had similar problems in the past, found that the NGK plugs where the problem (I now have a large bag of nearly new NGK plugs) and will never use NGK again even the so called proper ones from bikes shop are crap. Quote
bigpants Posted May 26 Author Posted May 26 I've tried new plugs , new coils , new CDI and now new pick ups. I have had some progress this week though . I took the carbs off again and noticed that one slide returned very smoothly through all its travel but three started smoothly then snapped shut over the last 1/4 distance or so. Took the diaphragms out and inspected , rubber is good and flexible , no holes etc. Put it all back together and worked the slides up and down over their full movement many , many times . The action got better. Did a test ride and there was a noticeable improvement. I could ride upto about 65mph continuously but if I tried to go quicker it would stutter and slow . Quote
bigpants Posted May 26 Author Posted May 26 So noticed main jet no#3 looks much newer than the others . All 4 were replaced last autumn at the same time with the dynojet kit. Quote
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