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B12 carb settings for std airbox and full system


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Posted (edited)

Hi. I'm almost done with these fucking carbs. 

Background.....std b12, 97 model. 

Currently on 114 dynojet mains, were 102.5 std ones. No difference.

I've tried ineedle on std setting.

Float heights checked. New needle valve o rings in the needle valve "keeper/ seat " as last ones were mighty loose. 

I've gone from 2 turns out to 2&1/2, no difference. 

Checked intakes...no leaks. 

Throttle seems to be hanging and I've reduced tickover. 

Tried different set of known to be good carbs.....no difference other than DJ jets 114

 

Still running like crap..

Anyone got a known set of carb settings for something similar (b12 std everything bar full Yoshi system, as I'm going round in circles.

Can't afford Dyno time......I'm skint.

Pic of cunty Mccuntface for attention/ sympathy.......

Help......

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Edited by baldrick
Posted (edited)

I have Mikuni 112.5 and around 3 turns out on the pilots, full Yosh system, no flat spots and very little pop on deceleration.  needles on the middle notch.

Edited by 2scars
more info
  • Like 1
Posted
29 minutes ago, 2scars said:

I have Mikuni 112.5 and around 3 turns out on the pilots, full Yosh system, no flat spots and very little pop on deceleration.  needles on the middle notch.

Perfect, thanks

Posted
16 hours ago, baldrick said:

Yes. Dj114

So those needles won't work well with Mikuni main jets then.  They have a different profile generally.  I would try to source genuine Mikuni carb parts.  Unless someone else has gotten the mixture to work...

Posted

Sorry. Main jets are dynojet, needles are std. 

Had another go today and it's worse. Took carbs off the zed, which were running fine,stuck them on blandits.... blandits missing, sounds wooly,  sounds lean as, even with  130 jets , turned air screw a half turn, still sounds pish.

So that's 2 sets of rebuilt "known too be good" carbs tried, no change

So I'm starting to suspect maybe valve clearances, coils, leads or plugs.

I've another set of b12 coils to try, along with some new plugs....

I'll do that first, then if no change, whip the cam cover off n check the valves.

Possibly tight exhaust valves?

 

Any other suggestions, I'm all ears

Posted

check inlet rubbers first for cracks and o-rings,  bugger that has made me think of onion rings and a burger, mmmm Im hungry now,,B|

is teh vacuum hose Ok no cracks or splits.. have you tried a remote fuel supply.??

 

If no good ill give you a tenner for it??:tu

 

 

 

  • Like 3
Posted

Ditch the Dyno jet s , as said needles are different more pointy for want off technical term. It's probably really rich low down as needles and jets are not compatible 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
44 minutes ago, gsx said:

Ditch the Dyno jet s , as said needles are different more pointy for want off technical term. It's probably really rich low down as needles and jets are not compatible 

 ive ordered some mikuni jets .

1 hour ago, fatblokeonbandit said:

check inlet rubbers first for cracks and o-rings,  bugger that has made me think of onion rings and a burger, mmmm Im hungry now,,B|

is teh vacuum hose Ok no cracks or splits.. have you tried a remote fuel supply.??

 

If no good ill give you a tenner for it??:tu

 

 

 

id need at least 20.....

vacuum hose is new and is not split etc.

ill try the old spray carb cleaner at the inlet rubbers and see if the engine note changes. 

it could possibly do with new o rings in there anyway, its been off the road for 4-5 years.

so my list of to do is as follows

1.new plugs

2 try different coils...again.. this is the 2nd set thats been on the bike, first were chinese crap, 2nd were b12 , 3rd set are off my skoaler project .( thats stalled)

3. check intakes for leaks & o rings

4. valve clearance check

5 set the c'nt on fire if none of the above work.........

Edited by baldrick
  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

New plugs did 90% of the trick.....quite odd really. The old ones looked ok and all provided big fat sparks when I turned the engine over with them attached to the existing coils/ leads. Fitted new ones anyway....fired up instantly and settled on a high tickover from choke.

So checked intakes....no leaks...bonus.

Still running lean tho, throttle is hanging slightly so I'm going with fbobs recommended jetting settings, just waiting for the jets to arrive. 

I'll use the carbs that came with the bike. I've stuck needles on the middle and didn't drop the c clip and spend half an hour looking for it.....oh no.....not me

So I've put away the matches.......for now

 

Edited by baldrick
  • Like 3
Posted

Yeah it can help but tbh I think its more likely the fact the mixture  screw is about 3 turns out and the mains are too small. It's very lean .

I'll be fitting my og set of carbs once the jets arrive and will be balancing them as well mate. 

I'm  want this on the road asap. It's been insured for 6 months and not got out the garage. If it still not sorted I'll do the valves

 

Since I'm on a roll with carbs I'm gonna get zed going tomorrow, with it's new carbs (dynojet  ST3 setup and a thorough clean) and hopefully sort the 600, which , after cleaning out the carbs on it.....decided to not even turn over today. I suspect tlhe switchgear starter switch, as it. Cranks off the bridged starter motor, but isn't keen on running.... I really should have just stripped it right down, painted frame and stuck 1100 motor in it

 

There's always something to do, but I'm getting bored of carbs now tbh

Posted

Can I just change the title to the never ending carb thread..

Got starter on 600 going today. It was sparking nicely. Had to take carbs off to fit an online filter, but I'm now a carb removal black belt....fitted it and some new fuel line Fired it up and lo, it ran......wouldn't take any throttle, just died. Then I noticed the petrol pooling underneath, from no. 1 carb. 

I said a few bad words then pulled the carbs.......... yet again...

This time it was a split float bowl rubber gasket..I said...said another bad word...

Took the rest of the float bowls off and another broken gasket and one that's saggier than my pants. 

Few more bad words.

Eblag bound for some new gaskets

I might as well clean them again, since I'm here.....ffs

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  • Like 3
Posted

You don`t have to tell me about carbs,working on a krapasaki zzzzzzzzr ,cleaned and balanced the things then realised you can`t adjust the airscrews while they are on the bike as the frame and carb heater pipes are all in the way.

At least blandit and slingy carbs are easy to work on-even on the bike:)

  • Like 1
Posted
11 hours ago, TonyGee said:

maybe you should buy a fuel injected bike Al !!!!  :D

Absolutely.,.much less grief. Just press the starter and go........but where's the fun in that. ,

  • Like 2
Posted
32 minutes ago, baldrick said:

Absolutely.,.much less grief. Just press the starter and go........but where's the fun in that. ,

That is...assuming the now 20+year old "newfangledstuff" is still working 100%

I will share my list of keeping my EFE with a 2004 GSX1400 engine running as intended.

Defective TPS and STPS, split hoses on the MAP, defective STPS motor, defective IAS, defective oil temperature sensor. Clogged high pressure filter inside the fuelpump, rusted out wetted parts of the fuel system, clogged low pressure fuel lines, clogged injectors.

By now that EFI stuff is also showing its age. 

  • Like 4
Posted

Right jets have arrived. I've decided to use the carbs fitted to the bike.

I'm setting needles to 3rd clip and noticed that this set has a small washer above the clip, which my other set of carbs didn't have. 

Question. 

I presume it's meant to be there, see pic 2nd from right?

IMG_20260413_123832224.jpg

Posted (edited)

Cheers.....i did wonder......Oh , ok, well I left them in. So I suppose I'll now have to take them back out..........bugger

Bikes all back together now and my knees are killing me, so it's a job for another day

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Edited by baldrick
  • Like 1

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