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7 hours ago, Screwriverracing said:

Another option is to get a ecu from a hayabusa or gsxr and have it flashed

 

Well, that's doable, at least in theory. But not worth of required effort in reality, trust me. Get some universal aftermarket ECU.

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10 hours ago, Screwriverracing said:

Thanks Tombola,

some interesting reading.

Another option is to get a ecu from a hayabusa or gsxr and have it flashed

pro's. 1. Readily available 

2. Quite cheap secondhand.

3. Manufacture have spent lots of money sorting them.

Cons.

 

 

Phil is a very knowledgeable guy, who will custom build your ecu to your spec! The loom is colour coded and labelled not worth fucking about with anything else really?

im not sure what the difference is between the ms2-3, but what more features do you want? 

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If you go the OE ECU route you are relying on someone else to setup, burn etc. You are relying on them if everything turns to shit again, as it has to you in the past. Going to Microquirt or Megasquirt, you do the setup and programming (and they are easy/comprehensive) and have all the files to back up if something happens down the track. There are a lot of people who have baseline setups that will get you going, and with Tunerstudio it will even tune the engine while you run it (if you can strap a notebook on the bike). The dyno guys will bluff you that only they have the knowledge to set up an ECU or you will risk engine damage. The fact is that in some cases they will do damage to your engine on the dyno and shrug that sometimes "that happens". The MS3 has great features to do fuel and spark, and a whole lot more. I prefer the cheaper cased Microsquirt to do fuel only (it can do spark), and use a programmable Dyna 2000 for the spark . . . less mucking around with trigger wheels and sensors. As Tombala said, the looms are nicely identified to aid installation. I have installed on turbo GSXR 1100W under full race conditions and keep turning up the boost ,and adding more fuel . . . easy peasy.

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8 hours ago, Screwriverracing said:

I am now totally bamboozeald looking at all the ecu's.

has anybody used one of these?

 

https://www.ecumaster.com/products/emu-black/

good price and does more than enough.

Cheers SRR

Once helped a guy to install and setup one on a car. It was looking quite ok to me, all needed features were there and it was relatively logical to use. But that's all what I can say, I don't have any real experience about it. However, I know a couple of guys using those on boosted bikes so most likely it would be fine for you too.

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23 minutes ago, Screwriverracing said:

what is the rpm of a Efe motor when on the starter motor?

Around 300rpm. It can vary quite a lot depending on battery, starter condition, compression and so on.

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Been doing a bit of research on different ecu's, came across this 

Crank sensors are most commonly of the inductive type, you can normally use the original crank sensor. If your engine uses the hall effect type, MBE ECUs can be built to order.

MBE write special code to allow the use of a range of different trigger wheels, most commonly 60-2(GM/VW/Bosch), 36-1(Ford), 24-1(Suzuki hayabusa) & 24-2(Suzuki Busa 2008 & other late Japanese bike engines). Other trigger wheels may become available, download Easimap 6 to check current types. 

A special piece of software has been written by MBE called soft start, this was produced due to known problem with the standard starter motors, that if the battery got a bit low sometimes the engine would kick back on starting and engage the starter clutch. This would, if you were lucky only damage the starter clutch itself, but if unlucky could break off part of the engine cases. Without going into too much detail, the ECU allows the engine to get up to speed during cranking before attempting to start the engine, if the engine does not reach sufficient speed it will not allow the engine to start, so damage can not occur.

My bike did suffer with starting problems as described above, the soft start sound interesting, but do all other systems do the same?

Cheers SRR

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Been talking to a couple of ecu makers, they suggested changing the timing wheel and if the settings can be altered to try it on the current ecu.

So I am going to try it, have contacted RACETECH to see if it is possible to change the pickup type in the program.

was wondering if this might help with the problem of starting it sometimes when it makes a loud cracking noise and the engine seems to go backwards, not good for the starter clutch.

Cheers SRR

 

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When I first set the motec m8 up on my turbo, the settings and the map were complete guesswork and I experienced a lot of kick backs trying to start - spinning the starter hub nut undone every time! The modified GSXR rotor with only 4 teeth wasn't helping but once the correct numbers relating to tooth / pick-up / TDC / ign timing were corrected the problem went away. I know 4 teeth ain't ideal but it's all I had at the time!

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1 hour ago, Screwriverracing said:

was wondering if this might help with the problem of starting it sometimes when it makes a loud cracking noise and the engine seems to go backwards, not good for the starter clutch.

 

Yes. Less optimal trigger wheel pattern may cause trouble on starting. The ECU may have difficulties to read crank position correctly because crank speed varies a lot during one revolution. Typically more teeth means more reliable reading, up to some limit.

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I have found another ecu manufacturer Eblag no 272423568938.

Have spoken to them, apparently there software came of the back of a Le Mans car( couldn't tell me which one) and said it should work no problem.

Benefits its are they are localism,( might have to ask fatblokeonbandit to do a drive by)

Good price at £595 including lead and basic harness.

Problems, they have never done a bike.

What do you think?

Cheers SRR

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  • 2 weeks later...

Fired it up today, took ages. Would fire then die. Plugs were really wet, so toook them out heated them up and tried aagain, same problem.

Next I changed the phasing on the injectors, and it fired up and ran, even ticked over, but was smoking badly.

Even fever it hard enough for the BOV to open, nearly s--t myself.

Stripped out the plenum and found some of the injectors leaking.

So I have decided to remove the injectors and get them cleaned.

Where should I take them, and how much should it cost to have 8 injectors cleaned?

Cheers SRR

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14 hours ago, Screwriverracing said:

Fired it up today, took ages. Would fire then die. Plugs were really wet, so toook them out heated them up and tried aagain, same problem.

Next I changed the phasing on the injectors, and it fired up and ran, even ticked over, but was smoking badly.

Even fever it hard enough for the BOV to open, nearly s--t myself.

Stripped out the plenum and found some of the injectors leaking.

So I have decided to remove the injectors and get them cleaned.

Where should I take them, and how much should it cost to have 8 injectors cleaned?

Cheers SRR

 

Heard some good stories about them on another forum:

http://www.injectortune.co.uk/index.html

Dealt with this company recently:
Great service 
it was £57 plus my postage to them (£8) for all 4 injectors cleaned serviced and new seals/filters .
Got them back in 5 working days , with a report on flow rate before and after. 

All arranged online and worked just fine. 

seth

 

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Why do you believe they were leaking? Its pretty rare that they do as something has to physically hold the pintel off its seat.

Don't forget constant start attempts will 'flood' the cylinders as the system 'primes' pump pressure and adds a couple of injector squirts to wet the inlet tract! 3 bar / 43psi static FP is the norm the world over.

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