Slabside fairing differences

[Graeme]

Anyone familiar with slabside fairings? Picked up a load of random bits. I ha e 2 different variants of left hand lowers, is this a year thing, or a 750/1100 thing?

They all have the same part number. I'm not familiar with paint schemes but searching Google, they seem a mix of 1100 and 750. One appears to be 1985 750 scheme but didnt 1985 have fiberglass lowers?

 

Also, are there any differences in any of the other panels between years and 750/1100? Ignoring decals and paint. I have one mid, a nose, the belly V, tail sides and one tail infill. Part numbers show 1100 but I've read that the nose at least is the same moulding.

Thanks

[Swiss Toni]

The differences between 750F, G&H are:

F has small 'gills' on top rear edges of mid panels. Also, F mid panels are 3 bolt fixing to top fairing, whereas G&H are 2 bolt. Bellypan on F goes down in a straight line, and is fibreglass. F&G's follow the curve of the front wheel, and are plastic. I don't know of any differences in top fairings. Side and seat panels were, I think, common to all 3 models. Tanks were different, in that F had a 'humped' top, G&H were flat. 

 

[Graeme]

1 hour ago, Swiss Toni said:

The differences between 750F, G&H are:

F has small 'gills' on top rear edges of mid panels. Also, F mid panels are 3 bolt fixing to top fairing, whereas G&H are 2 bolt. Bellypan on F goes down in a straight line, and is fibreglass. F&G's follow the curve of the front wheel, and are plastic. I don't know of any differences in top fairings. Side and seat panels were, I think, common to all 3 models. Tanks were different, in that F had a 'humped' top, G&H were flat. 

 

That's great, thanks.

Are all the fairing mouldings shared between 750 and 1100?

I've been trying to suss the side stand cut out. It seems maybe 85 and 86 750 have no cut out, 87 has a small cut out, and the larger cut out like the 2 in my pic are 1100. Any idea if that's correct?

[Simbec1863]

That large cut out looks the same as my 750 H 

[Graeme]

9 minutes ago, Simbec1863 said:

That large cut out looks the same as my 750 H 

Yeah, looking at more pics, the large cut out seems to be a H thing, not a 750/1100 thing.

[Swiss Toni]

Might be a bit small to make out, but here's my F stuff. I'd take more pics, but it's all wrapped up somewhere safe.

 

Edited August 10, 2025 by Swiss Toni

[Graeme]

11 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:

Might be a bit small to make out, but here's my F stuff. I'd take more pics, but it's all wrapped up somewhere safe.

 

The lowers are very different! So are they fiberglass? I sort of assumed they would be one piece. Do they still have the V piece too?

I see the nose has a divided between the lights and no half round cut out underneath

Edited August 11, 2025 by Graeme

[Swiss Toni]

Yes, the bellypan on the F is FG. Lot of people think it's aftermarket,  but it's std. Suzuki. And, no V piece. G&H models did.The top fairing has an oval opening, with an infill panel, which separates the lights. There was also a clear, oval cover for the front of the fairing, over the lights. Stone protection or aerodynamics? Don't know if that was OEM or not.

Edited August 11, 2025 by Swiss Toni

[Graeme]

1 hour ago, Swiss Toni said:

Yes, the bellypan on the F is FG. Lot of people think it's aftermarket,  but it's std. Suzuki. And, no V piece. G&H models did.The top fairing has an oval opening, with an infill panel, which separates the lights. There was also a clear, oval cover for the front of the fairing, over the lights. Stone protection or aerodynamics? Don't know if that was OEM or not.

Good info, thanks. I've seen F's with fiberglass lowers, but one piece with a built in V. They must be aftermarket then.

I'm a long way from building a slabside up, but I have an F 750 frame with no subframe, a 750 slabside motor, some srad rwu forks and most of the G/H plastics (missing right hand lower, left hand mid, left hand mid tail piece until thing and the light surround)

I'll keep looking for parts but one day, it will be a bike. 

[Swiss Toni]

21 minutes ago, Graeme said:

Good info, thanks. I've seen F's with fiberglass lowers, but one piece with a built in V. They must be aftermarket then.

Maybe the bellypans with V's are a Fibreman product? Have a look, he's in the Traders bit on here. The SRAD forks are a good choice, std. looking, but beefy! Not so keen on the front 'guard though! 

The original wheels were flimsy. You could actually grip the spokes and flex them together. G&H were beefed up.

Go 3 spoke, but I'd think twice about using the SRADs 6" rear. Might make it a bastard to turn in! Hyabusa levers & masters look nearly identical to OE Slabby, but a lot more modern. Good swap. I've got a list of modern alternative parts somewhere. If I can dig it out, I'll post it up!

Edited August 11, 2025 by Swiss Toni

[Graeme]

6 minutes ago, Swiss Toni said:

Maybe the bellypans with V's are a Fibreman product? Have a look, he's in the Traders bit on here. The SRAD forks are a good choice, std. looking, but beefy! Not so keen on the front 'guard though! 

The original wheels were flimsy. You could actually grip the spokes and flex them together. G&H were beefed up.

Go 3 spoke, but I'd think twice about using the SRADs 6" rear. Might make it a bastard to turn in! Hyabusa levers & masters look nearly identical to OE Slabby, but a lot more modern. Good swap. I've got a list of modern alternative parts somewhere. If I can dig it out, I'll post it up!

I have a straight spoke 4.5" rear wheel to match the srad front.

What I don't have is a swingarm. I have some 1988 swingarms and shocks so might modify the frame to use slingshot stuff.

The main stumbling block for getting started is I don't have any smalls, so no engine brackets, swingarm spindle etc to start getting it mocked up. I'll keep acquiring parts as and when they turn up for now. I'd really like a stock subframe back on it, but that might be tricky. Maybe if I can find a cut off one I'll use the stock subframe but make it bolt on. Then I can adjust position and account for material lost when it was cut. Unless I can find a bent scrap frame with good subframe  maybe.

[Swiss Toni]

There was a treasure trove of Slabby bits in the 'For Sale' here, not so long ago. So, there's still stuff to be had. I've got a G/H swinging arm, (1" longer) but don't want to part with it just yet 'till I decide which direction it's going.The length of time it's taking, when it's finally finished, I'll probably be too old to be able to bend into shape to ride the fucking thing! Chances are, if a donor main frame is bent, the subframe's got a good chance to be too! Look for someone who races them, they may have one lying around that's been cut up for 'Yoshimura style' bracing. You never know! 

Edited August 11, 2025 by Swiss Toni

[Graeme]

28 minutes ago, Swiss Toni said:

There was a treasure trove of Slabby bits in the 'For Sale' here, not so long ago. So, there's still stuff to be had. I've got a G/H swinging arm, (1" longer) but don't want to part with it just yet 'till I decide which direction it's going.The length of time it's taking, when it's finally finished, I'll probably be too old to be able to bend into shape to ride the fucking thing! Chances are, if a donor main frame is bent, the subframe's got a good chance to be too! Look for someone who races them, they may have one lying around that's been cut up for 'Yoshimura style' bracing. You never know! 

I don't think I'll go stock with the swingarm anyway, I'm new to slabbies, but aren't folk always trying to raise the rear with 1100 knuckles or similar? Once I find a spindle, I'll mock up the slingshot stuff and see how hard it looks to make it work. I did similar on my slingshot though with k4 stuff. I'd really like a 95 arm, but so does everyone else. 

Trying not to get too involved with it until I've found engine mounting stuff. I'll stick a wanted add up at some point, but ideally I'll finish the track 88 before starting the slab.

Yeah, there were a load of fairing bits recently, and a rough tank. But I didn't habe a frame then so had no intentions of building a slab. Shame, I'd have loved that cheap rough tank.

Only bought the fairing bits now as they were at the autojumble for cheap.

[gray711]

I’m using a stock arm, well braced with R1 brace & adjusters, on one of my slabby’s with an 11 linkage to raise the ride height. The linkage requires some meat removing as does the frame to make it work. 
 

My other slabby will be using a 95 arm & apparently you can use a bandit 12 linkage & fab some appropriate dog bones to get it all working. 
 

 

[Graeme]

4 hours ago, gray711 said:

I’m using a stock arm, well braced with R1 brace & adjusters, on one of my slabby’s with an 11 linkage to raise the ride height. The linkage requires some meat removing as does the frame to make it work. 
 

My other slabby will be using a 95 arm & apparently you can use a bandit 12 linkage & fab some appropriate dog bones to get it all working. 
 

 

I guess the bandit linkage would work with an 88 arm too then?

 

[gray711]

2 hours ago, Graeme said:

I guess the bandit linkage would work with an 88 arm too then?

 

No idea tbh

[gray711]

Thinking about it, the slabby linkage system is different, as in no dog bones as such. So may not work 

[Joseph]

I used 1100 slabside rims on my Katana with SRAD fork and Kawasaki 320mm discs 

[Swiss Toni]

Bit more info:

The lowers from ’86 & ’87 750’s swap with lowers from ’86 – ‘87 & ‘88 1100 lowers.

Mid panels swap between all models except ‘85F with small mod. Drill new hole in mid panel to line up with mount on side of head. Existing hole in panels will have different locations due to differing cylinder heights.

Lowers from 750F swap with nothing.

Top fairing from ’86 – ’88 1100 is 2” wider at the mirror mounts than ’86-’87 750’s.

Use 1100 top fairing stay for750 fitting.

Seats/cowls from ’86 & ’87 750’s swap with ’86 – ’88 1100’s.

’85 750F seat units will fit ’86 – ’88 models (750 & 1100?) by removing rear seat latch and fitting to front cross member, and removing old front latch from cable.

Then, seats from ’86 – ’88 models can be fitted to ‘85F models using ’86 – ’88 seat latch assemblies.

Underseat panels interchange with all except LTD models.

750/1100 rear mudguard/inner guards both the same.

 

[Graeme]

3 minutes ago, Swiss Toni said:

Bit more info:

The lowers from ’86 & ’87 750’s swap with lowers from ’86 – ‘87 & ‘88 1100 lowers.

Mid panels swap between all models except ‘85F with small mod. Drill new hole in mid panel to line up with mount on side of head. Existing hole in panels will have different locations due to differing cylinder heights.

Lowers from 750F swap with nothing.

Top fairing from ’86 – ’88 1100 is 2” wider at the mirror mounts than ’86-’87 750’s.

Use 1100 top fairing stay for750 fitting.

Seats/cowls from ’86 & ’87 750’s swap with ’86 – ’88 1100’s.

’85 750F seat units will fit ’86 – ’88 models (750 & 1100?) by removing rear seat latch and fitting to front cross member, and removing old front latch from cable.

Then, seats from ’86 – ’88 models can be fitted to ‘85F models using ’86 – ’88 seat latch assemblies.

Underseat panels interchange with all except LTD models.

750/1100 rear mudguard/inner guards both the same.

 

That's the first I've read about any differences between 750 and 1100 uppers. 

I'm reasonably sure My upper is from an 1100 going by the paint. Anyone got a measurement for 750 upper width?

I'd assume that means the screens are different too, and the mounting bracket?

Edited August 13, 2025 by Graeme

[Swiss Toni]

@GraemeJust checked the part no's for the screens for '85 750, & '87/'88 750 &1100's which would differ if the 1100 screen was wider. All part no's the same!

[Graeme]

1 hour ago, Swiss Toni said:

@GraemeJust checked the part no's for the screens for '85 750, & '87/'88 750 &1100's which would differ if the 1100 screen was wider. All part no's the same!

2" seems like a huge difference in width between 750 and 1100 too.

I've read there are no differences, and I've also found other reference to width difference. And opening difference due to handlebar heights. But comparing photos, they look the same.

Also turns out my upper has been repainted so the 1100 paint can't be trusted.

Mine also has this etching on the inside. Standard?

[Graeme]

Also, now I look at it again, it seems mine has been cut down. Been done well so I hadn't noticed

[Swiss Toni]

Yeah, those 'ears' are supposed to go back a ways! Prone to snapping off if you look at them the wrong way! That's why yours has probably been trimmed.

[Graeme]

Bit of an update to this. 

I bought another upper, supposedly 86/87. It's smashed to bits, and a large section where it meets the mid panel is missing. The ears are broken too, but they are there. Plan was to fix the ears, then cut and shut the fixed upper half with my good lower half.

However, it seems the new broken fairing is 85!

There are a few more differences. Single mounting underneath obviously, and 3 bolts to the mid (although the middle one has been filled).

But, the junction to the mids is longer, the line curves more, and the inner return is higher on the 85.

I still don't know if there is a difference between 750 and 1100, but both these seem to be the same as far as width and height is concerned.

Did they even do an 1100 in 85? With the 3 bolt mids and fiberglass lowers?

I was going to cut and shut them at the handlebar opening, that would leave me with an 85 part number but 86/87 mid fitment. Not that it matters, it will always be a heavily repaired upper. My frame is 85 however. Would be nice to keep it 85 spec but it's absolutely fucked all over. My other panels are 86/87 anyway.

Just thought some of the more nerdy members might like to see the comparisons.