Oil cooler and lines

[Graeme]

I know little about this, so just wanting to confirm some things.

I need a new oil cooler for my 750 slingshot. I'm looking at the usual 13x7x2 an10. I'll make brackets.

Ok having the fittings at the bottom? As for hoses, straight swivel fittings both ends and banjo adapters for the engine ends? Do I need stainless braided line, or will black nylon braided be ok. I assume it's going to end up quite close to the exhaust. Eblag hose ok? Or is it like fuel line where it's a challenge finding stuff that is ok to use.

The fittings sort of clamp on right? with the screw on collar.

Is there anything I need to be considering, or is this all as straight forward as it seems?

Is it going to be awkward getting everything to clear the exhaust?, bike is in bits so hard to check. Don't want to end up finding the cooler I've bought won't work due to where the outlets are

 

Looking at this stuff, not sure what size banjos I need yet though

 

I see these kits too, but I'd still need 2 more straight fittings and banjos. I dont need the other stuff so i guess this is pointless

[spiderpig]

Get all the fittings and hose from torques on Eblag, no messing around.

Not sure on the 750 sump but on the 12 I replaced the banjos with metric to an adaptors. Used stainless braided hose. 

Tape the hose and cut with a thin grinder disc. It's pretty straight forward. 

Fine to mount rad bottom fed. 

[Graeme]

5 minutes ago, spiderpig said:

Get all the fittings and hose from torques on Eblag, no messing around.

Not sure on the 750 sump but on the 12 I replaced the banjos with metric to an adaptors. Used stainless braided hose. 

Tape the hose and cut with a thin grinder disc. It's pretty straight forward. 

Fine to mount rad bottom fed. 

I'm sure I was looking at torques shop earlier. I just went back and grabbed some screenshots from whatever sellers to illustrate.

Thanks. It all seems straightforward, but with jobs I haven't done before, there is always a risk of overlooking something.

[Graeme]

Ok, so torques sell cutter fittings which I understand is what's best. The other cheap ones are fast flow, which apparently aren't as good. Didn't realise there were 2 types of fittings.

[Graeme]

If the cutter fittings grab the hose, do I need to cut the outer braiding back further to expose some rubber?

[Dezza]

Mount the cooler and exhaust, and any fairing, all first. Then you'll have a much better idea of the exact hose fittings you'll need for clearance and the total length of hose. It's easy to buy first in haste and then realise you need an angled hose fitting instead of a straight one or the cooler fittings have to go on the top and the hose is too short.

[Gixer1460]

As said, wrap SS hose with masking or insulation tape where you cut, don't forget to fit the fitting 'nut' before cutting, don't cut SS braid back - the fitting is designed to capture. cutter fittings are good with rubber as forms a secondary seal, dont use nylon covered especially near exhaust. I used dash 10 but found it better to run ouside of pipes 1 & 4 as between was too close IMO.! Pic's shown turbo but was NA before and equally tight!

Oh and cooler fittings at bottom are fine - cooler will NOR drain!

Edited March 15 by Gixer1460
extra words

[coombehouse]

In case anyone hasn't mentioned yet, there are 2 types of hose, rubber & PTFE. The end fittings are different for each type.

[Graeme]

1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:

As said, wrap SS hose with masking or insulation tape where you cut, don't forget to fit the fitting 'nut' before cutting, don't cut SS braid back - the fitting is designed to capture. cutter fittings are good with rubber as forms a secondary seal, dont use nylon covered especially near exhaust. I used dash 10 but found it better to run ouside of pipes 1 & 4 as between was too close IMO.! Pic's shown turbo but was NA before and equally tight!

Oh and cooler fittings at bottom are fine - cooler will NOR drain!

Fittings at the bottom, I was more concerned about making it harder to route the pipes past the exhaust.

 

So if I use stainless hose, do I still want cutter fittings? Will they grab the braiding properly?

[Graeme]

7 minutes ago, coombehouse said:

In case anyone hasn't mentioned yet, there are 2 types of hose, rubber & PTFE. The end fittings are different for each type.

I'd only just noticed that, thanks.

[Gixer1460]

Cutter refers to part of the fitting that literally cuts into the face cut end of the rubber inner hose. The braid is only there for protection. You could use plain rubber hose but normal fittings won't work with it as it usually relies on push on barbed or crimped on fittings. No one would use PTFE linered hose @ -10 size due to cost & meltage due to heat with cooler use! Look at 'Think Automotives website for info on all things hose related !

Edited March 16 by Gixer1460

[Graeme]

15 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

Cutter refers to part of the fitting that literally cuts into the face cut end of the rubber inner hose. The braid is only there for protection. You could use plain rubber hose but normal fittings won't work with it as it usually relies on push on barbed or crimped on fittings. No one would use PTFE lingered hose @ -10 size due to cost & meltage due to heat with cooler use! Look at 'Think Automotives website for info on all things hose related !

Ah, I see. The way it pulls it onto the blue part in this diagram, cutting in from the end.

I was concerned about if the teeth on the red part would grip the braiding. I thought only the teeth on the red part did the 'cutting'

[dupersunc]

Anything you buy that is -6 or bigger will just need a straight cut on the hose. The black nylons stuff is generally better because the braided outer wont chafe through frame tubes like the stainless stuff will. Yse temperature is an issue near exhausts but fitting a silicone heat prood sleeve sorts that.

Smaller -3 and -4 hose  that you use on brake an clucth lines is ptfe lined, the fittings have a seperate brass olive where you peel back the braid to fit the olive to the inner ptfe sleeve.

[Graeme]

36 minutes ago, dupersunc said:

Anything you buy that is -6 or bigger will just need a straight cut on the hose. The black nylons stuff is generally better because the braided outer wont chafe through frame tubes like the stainless stuff will. Yse temperature is an issue near exhausts but fitting a silicone heat prood sleeve sorts that.

Smaller -3 and -4 hose  that you use on brake an clucth lines is ptfe lined, the fittings have a seperate brass olive where you peel back the braid to fit the olive to the inner ptfe sleeve.

Even the stock lines have worn the frame away where the thick rubber is, but it's done 90,000 miles so higher than most gsxr's!

Seems silicone covers might be a good idea either way, either to protect the nylon on e from heat, or protect the frame from the stainless braid.

I'll see how the lines need to be once it's coming together. 

[graveltrapexplorer]

ohh I needed all this info thanks as I've got to source and fit a cooler and lines to my slingshot. 

[Jonny]

I would advise putting some masking tap on the fittings so you don't scratch them with the spanner. I have some from Torques and without any slipage, the spanner still marked the finish.

[dupersunc]

1 hour ago, Jonny said:

I would advise putting some masking tap on the fittings so you don't scratch them with the spanner. I have some from Torques and without any slipage, the spanner still marked the finish.

Thats my only criticism of the Torques stuff, is that its softer than  the Goodridge or Earls  stuff.

[spiderpig]

1 hour ago, dupersunc said:

Thats my only criticism of the Torques stuff, is that its softer than  the Goodridge or Earls  stuff.

I'm pretty sure their stuff is Chinese, seen waaaay too many identical parts for a couple quid less coming from Asia. 

[Jonny]

1 hour ago, dupersunc said:

Thats my only criticism of the Torques stuff, is that its softer than  the Goodridge or Earls  stuff.

I guess that's where the extra money goes - but once they're on, it's not a problem.

[dupersunc]

38 minutes ago, spiderpig said:

I'm pretty sure their stuff is Chinese, seen waaaay too many identical parts for a couple quid less coming from Asia. 

A lot of it is Chinese all the common stuff,  but Torques do manufacture the more specialised stuff in house in the UK.

[coombehouse]

On 3/15/2025 at 10:37 PM, Graeme said:

Even the stock lines have worn the frame away where the thick rubber is, but it's done 90,000 miles so higher than most gsxr's!

Seems silicone covers might be a good idea either way, either to protect the nylon on e from heat, or protect the frame from the stainless braid.

I'll see how the lines need to be once it's coming together. 

I normally use clear heat shrink sleeve over the braid as it's impossible to keep clean otherwise. Adds a bit of protection too 

[Dezza]

Often you'll see good secondhand or even new Goodridge, Earls, Speedflow etc. fittings cheap on eb@y. I sometimes buy them and have a box full in the shed for future use but still have to buy Torques when I don't have a specific fitting. In my experience Torques stainless, at least their -3 brake fittings, is better quality than their larger ally stuff, but it's all still good VFM. I wouldn't be surprised though if much of the 'name' brands stuff is still made in China, just to a higher spec.