Turbo plumbing for a simpleton

[El Gringo]

Thanks Rob,

The small connections behind the fuel inlets are definitely the float bowl vents though, these are the ones that need the dynamic reference from the up pipe if i've read it right.

Might try it with the big ones blanked off to start with - or at least investigate where they lead to - they don't go to the float bowls, i know that much

I think they are like the 40mm carbs

*Just looked at a couple of different pictures, the 2 big ones need to be connected to the plenum

Edited November 14, 2016 by El Gringo

[MeanBean49]

I think the little ones are just overflows, the bigger ones are your air reference bits for float chamber, they are normally conected to airbox but dont really matter in n/a stuff, they are what wants to be connected to your pitot feed.

Not too dificult to mess round with conecting them all or blanking one then the other.

I think blank bottom ones and use the top to start with

[Captain Chaos]

I think blank top ones off and put boost on bottom ones. Same as what we did on Saulius' 40mm carbs IIRC.

[El Gringo]

Hi All

Bit of an update

Plenum is now all welded and I think everything is pretty much connected.

Have been working on a couple of clock brackets, one on the front of the top yoke for the boost gauge and a.n.other 2" gauge, and one just infront of the tank for the speedo/rev counter.

Also got the up pipe clamped properly and added the expansion bottle

Have made a start on the loom and placement for the battery

For the other gauge i've been looking at the AEM/Innovate combined AFR/Boost gauge but according to the destructions i haven't got enough exhaust length for the lambda sesnor to work properly. Anyone got any experience with these?

Cheers

[MeanBean49]

Getting there now mate. All looks good

[Arttu]

On 8.12.2016 at 11:38 AM, El Gringo said:

For the other gauge i've been looking at the AEM/Innovate combined AFR/Boost gauge but according to the destructions i haven't got enough exhaust length for the lambda sesnor to work properly. Anyone got any experience with these?

I would try to get the sensor at least 20-30cm away from the turbine exit. And at least same distance from end of the pipe to prevent fresh air getting on the sensor. But if your piping is too short for these figures just place the sensor in the middle. It probably works just fine...

[El Gringo]

On 12/10/2016 at 8:51 AM, Arttu said:

I would try to get the sensor at least 20-30cm away from the turbine exit. And at least same distance from end of the pipe to prevent fresh air getting on the sensor. But if your piping is too short for these figures just place the sensor in the middle. It probably works just fine...

Cheers Arttu, I've seen some really close to the turbine exit, might just try it and see what happens.

Won't be for a bit though - it'll probably cost twice what i paid for the bike in the first place!

Have made a start on the wiring - wish me luck

[El Gringo]

Morning All,

Happy New Year an' all that.

Been making slow progress with the wiring, nearly there now though, which means it's time to stick some fuel in it and see what happens.

Quick question. I was going to try the fuel pressure at 2psi, same as Robs. I'm presuming there isn't an easy way of knowing how much to tweak the spring by?

I was going to get a fuel pressure gauge for set up porpoises, can i get away with just sticking it on the end of the hose that goes to the carbs, so the fuel is dead heading against it?

So i can set the pressure and then reconnect the hose to the carb inlet?

There's about 8-10" of wiring to come out of the middle of the loom

Also got the fuel and oil pump switches in, along with the boost gauge and idiot lights

[Gixer1460]

I'd say if you have a deadheaded line, the pressure in it will be higher than when fuel is flowing. I prefer to put full pump pressure over the carbs with FPR after, with return back to tank - no deadhead and pressure should read static pressure at the carbs correctly.

[MeanBean49]

I set mine up using a gauge in deadhead way on the feed from fpr to the carbs.

I then connect to the carbs with the gauge t-eed in and check again. Should be exactly the same. Its a good way of checking the carbs are holding pressure properly.

[MeanBean49]

Deadheading the line should have no effect on the pressure in the line. Thats controlled by the fpr and boost feed to it to make it rise. All your doing is setting how much higher fuel will always be above boost pressure.

[El Gringo]

Thanks guys! Will see how i get on

In other news I've now got a spark! Not a great one but a spark none the less

[El Gringo]

A celebratory beverage - Its a runner!

It's rough but it's a runner! Will only run with the pitot tube disconnected but i presume that's because its not running with the fuel pump at present

Didn't run it too long as it's got no water in it at present - waiting on a new fan switch and temp sender

 

[El Gringo]

Slight set back,

Can't get the flippin' thing started again now. Just refusing to fire up.

GSXR4s are notorious for being poor starters, i'm wondering if having the floats lowered by 2mm and ignition retarded by 2.5 degrees isn't really helping.

I might try it all back stock with the turbo air side disconnected.

Mixture screws are set at 3 turns out, and i tried them at 5 last night to compensate for the low floats but it didn;t seem to make any difference

[FJD]

flooded spark plugs ?

did you try with start spray ?

[El Gringo]

Culprit found! Head gasket is fubar, coolant in cylinders 2 and 3

New one will be on it's was asap

Compression was down to 105psi on those 2 cylinder - should be up in the 180-190 range

Did seem odd that the only thing i'd done was add coolant before it stopped starting 

[vizman]

what a bummer....slight set back.

looking forward to seeing this turn its wheels in anger

[El Gringo]

14 minutes ago, vizman said:

what a bummer....slight set back.

looking forward to seeing this turn its wheels in anger

Me too Viz, hopefully it won't take too long to get it back in one piece and running again

A couple of piccys

The bores are really shiny too which won't help, so i'll be giving them a bit of a hone before it goes back together

Also got the set of machined pistons to go in, so they might as well go in now too

[El Gringo]

Quick update, head gasket replaced, bores honed, still won't f**king start

I'm now considering fire........

[El Gringo]

Little bit more of an update

After struggling to get it started after filling it with coolant and subsequently finding cylinders 2 and 3 had coolant in them, i replaced the head gasket and gave he bores a quick hone as they were incredibly shiny.

I put the set of machined pistons i have in, and tried again. It coughed and spluttered but refused to start.

After much faffing and starting attempts the starter motor gave up and disintegrated.

I fitted a new one at the weekend - still no joy, won't even turn over now, even with the plugs out

The other curious thing, my oil feed comes from the timing case on the left of the engine from the end of the main oil gallery.

Normally this just dead heads against the inside of the cover, mine has a take off welded on with a threaded insert for the oil line restrictor. 

With the timing cover off the bike, you can press the starter button and the bike will turn over, oil pumping out of the feed. If i put my thumb over the oil feed it stops it turning over?!

It's like it hasn't got the ommmph to overcome the oil resistance - it was fine before and i haven't changed a single thing on the oil side.

I'm thinking there's something gone tits up in the loom, or its a weak starter.

The only thing i've done is replace the starter with a known good one (i have another coming today to rule that out) and we shortened the middle of the wiring loom last weekend, one wire at a time, so maybe something has gone amiss with that

Somewhat confused/bemused now 

[FJD]

did you try the starter out of the engine ?

If it works then, it will work in the engine too

[El Gringo]

I think it's either the solenoid control side or the starter wiring

Had a burst of inspiration, bridged across the soleniod with a screwdriver, turns over fine, so i may have ballsed up where i shortened the wiring or the solenoid low side is fubar.

Either way it's progress! (And a lesson in only changing one thing at a time when you have a problem!)

Edited February 28, 2017 by El Gringo

[Tombola]

So your solenoid can't handle the amps? Wiring is all tight? 

[El Gringo]

I suspect it's the wiring @Tombola

Will do a few tests later and see where it's breaking down

[Madb]

Hurry up already! wanna know how she rides!!! me? impatient,, never.. i'm used to waiting!!