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GSx1100 Dresda Solitaire (I may have had a Clivecident).


imago

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Posted

Rims are done now, exactly as I asked them to be. i.e. make them as shiny as possible without removing material to get rid of any deeper marks. Pays dividends using someone who knows what they're doing and listens to the customer.

Arm will be done after Christmas.

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  • Like 4
Posted
6 minutes ago, DAZ said:

Cue the man from the cosmic centre of the universe ( @fatblokeonbandit) saying ...... Bugger me that's shiney....:D but they are :tu

They are indeed, but having paid a man to make them shiny you'd be proper pissed if they weren't. xD

  • Like 2
Posted

I was talking to the bloke I got the pistons from last night, and he has photos of a Saxon race bike which has the same wheels, but although the centres are identical the rims are one piece carbon.

Posted
38 minutes ago, imago said:

I was talking to the bloke I got the pistons from last night, and he has photos of a Saxon race bike which has the same wheels, but although the centres are identical the rims are one piece carbon.

Dear Santa, I've been such a good boy this year (well apart from my visit to uncle Clives...:stop:) and those carbon wheel centres wouldn't slow Rudolf down at all ...... :D

  • Like 2
Posted
37 minutes ago, DAZ said:

Dear Santa, I've been such a good boy this year (well apart from my visit to uncle Clives...:stop:) and those carbon wheel centres wouldn't slow Rudolf down at all ...... :D

It'd need to be Santa paying for them, I don't even want to think about or know the amount of spending I've done in the last few months. :o

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

The engine that the block and pistons came from must have been insanely close to the edge. The squish is purely head gasket thickness. I think a base gasket adjustment may be in order.

By my reckoning that gives me 11.5:1 compression and 1165 cc displacement.

 

Edited by imago
Had to remove close up of the piston.
Posted

If it was a race bike my assumption would be that it had long enough duration cams to reduce the dynamic compression to an acceptable level 

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, imago said:

The engine that the block and pistons came from must have been insanely close to the edge. The squish is purely head gasket thickness. I think a base gasket adjustment may be in order.

By my reckoning that gives me 11.5:1 compression and 1165 cc displacement.

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EFE base gaskets are steel ...earlier models are paper ... i always use EFE one's on any GSX motor 

  • Like 2
Posted
5 minutes ago, Duckndive said:

EFE base gaskets are steel ...earlier models are paper ... i always use EFE one's on any GSX motor 

Good call on the base gasket. I need to get the big valve head off of the engine in the ET, check the compressed gasket thickness and then double check what I have squish wise.

19 minutes ago, DAZ said:

If it was a race bike my assumption would be that it had long enough duration cams to reduce the dynamic compression to an acceptable level 

I haven't sorted the cams for it yet, so I need to get on with that so that I know where I'm at with lift and duration.

  • Like 1
Posted

Right, moving things on a bit and I got an xr55/Slabby seat unit to try courtesy of @SFC(it's a seconds unit for chopping purposes). A bit of cutting and trimming at the skirts and I'm liking the lines. I'll take some more off once I get the arm and wheels under it so that I can see the general shape of the bike better. Don't want to cut too much off until then as it's a bit more difficult adding than taking away. O.o

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  • Like 9
Posted

It's just sitting on the rails as it is. The final/correct position will see the very front of the seat/tail come down, the back up a touch and the back of the tank down about 5mm. Basically the top of the tank and the top of the tail unit will be a straight line.

I need to get the wheel and arm under it before I go too far down the lining things up road though as it might not work so well then so I don't want to waste time and effort only to in it later. Once that's done and I've decided between a combined electrical tray and mounting or two separate parts I can make it/them.

  • Like 1
Posted
10 hours ago, imago said:

It's just sitting on the rails as it is. The final/correct position will see the very front of the seat/tail come down, the back up a touch and the back of the tank down about 5mm. Basically the top of the tank and the top of the tail unit will be a straight line.

I need to get the wheel and arm under it before I go too far down the lining things up road though as it might not work so well then so I don't want to waste time and effort only to in it later. Once that's done and I've decided between a combined electrical tray and mounting or two separate parts I can make it/them.

Sounds like a plan Lar. 

Posted

Time to remove the now run in big valve head and 1168 Wiseco big bore. The head's going on the Dresda. Big bore on something eventually. 

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  • Like 2
Posted

All coming back off once I've got my measurements for spacers etc. Lots of trial fit stuff to sort out, then I can get some boots on them and work out what I need in the way of discs and sprocket.

 

Posted
16 minutes ago, Havoc said:

I get that, but those rims with tyres on even old ones that will be replaced, will be much safer in the mean time.

I'd suggest putting old tyres on and off would risk more damage than being careful as they are. Fear not, they'll come to no harm in the couple of weeks until they get tyres on. (y)

  • Like 1

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