Wiring ignitech 2 step to clutch switch

[rerb]

Anyone know roughly how to wire the 2step function of the ignitech cdi to the clutch switch (1999 b12) Previous owner jumped the wires to bypass it. I tried running the input and ground to the separate switch wires but nothing happened. Jumping them together so the bike starts probably causes problems there, but I'm not sure what I'm doing! 

Thanks 

[Wee Man]

User manual for here SPARKER RACING 1 (ignitech.cz)

My understanding is (quite willing to be corrected) a separate clutch switch is needed, one side to ground, the other to one on the Ignitec CDI's multifunction inputs (pin 8 or pin 19). The CDI then has to be programmed via laptop to enable the multifunction input. 

 "Multifunctional inputs The unit contains two multifunctional inputs. Inputs should be activated using switch with respect to ground. The inputs can be assigned different functions: KILL SWITCH - the unit will stop ignition when input is grounded BLOCKING - the unit will stop ignition when input is ungrounded (security circuit of sidestand) QUICKSHIFT - activate Quickshift sequence (gear shift up with full gas) RETARD - decrease ignition advance with preselected value in full range START LIMTER - activate Starting limiter (launch control)."

[rerb]

Right, yep. I got it programmed in and was set to a flip switch, I just wasn't sure how to get it to play nice with the clutch switch itself. I'm going to try starting the bike, disconnecting the jump, and see if that works. It'll also double as a no lift shift aswell which is nice. For whatever reason the bike hates clutchless shifting under boost, but is fine off boost

[badger]

On 4/2/2023 at 5:50 PM, rerb said:

Right, yep. I got it programmed in and was set to a flip switch, I just wasn't sure how to get it to play nice with the clutch switch itself. I'm going to try starting the bike, disconnecting the jump, and see if that works. It'll also double as a no lift shift aswell which is nice. For whatever reason the bike hates clutchless shifting under boost, but is fine off boost

Have you had a play with the 2step? I've just set mine uptold and had a fuck about. 4k rpm and about 50% throttle. Span a lot.

Launch felt slow really. 

What kinda rpms and throttle are you using?

[Gixer1460]

If u are spinning the wheel, the clutch and chassis needs work.

[Duckndive]

17 hours ago, badger said:

Have you had a play with the 2step? I've just set mine uptold and had a fuck about. 4k rpm and about 50% throttle. Span a lot.

Launch felt slow really. 

What kinda rpms and throttle are you using?

for a 2 step you normally just set low RPM and what ever your rev limit is  

pull clutch in "or what ever your using" pre stage bike 1st amber then 2nd amber wind throttle to WOT "bike sits at pre set low RPM" 

hold on tight throw the clutch let go of button or what ever rpms rise clutch does its thing shift gear a few times collect ticket review data 

adjust settings to improve "reduce wheel spin etc" and repeat 

 

[badger]

9 hours ago, Duckndive said:

for a 2 step you normally just set low RPM and what ever your rev limit is  

pull clutch in "or what ever your using" pre stage bike 1st amber then 2nd amber wind throttle to WOT "bike sits at pre set low RPM" 

hold on tight throw the clutch let go of button or what ever rpms rise clutch does its thing shift gear a few times collect ticket review data 

adjust settings to improve "reduce wheel spin etc" and repeat 

 

I guess I'm going the right way with it but I've been totally over thinking it. 

Practice is super hard as there isn't a bit of road long enough that's quiet enough. Traction really was an issue but all I had was a shit bit of road. 

100% needs better suspension set up. Traction felt better with a softer set up which I might go back to for a rwyb in a few weeks. 

I'm at utter newb it doing this in an adult fashion. Always just felt it out but wanna be more consistent! 

Thanks guys 

[Duckndive]

i looked in your project thread but it dont mention what clutch you are using ..? 

If its a diaphragm unit then "IMO" tuning the static "base pressure" is a lot harder than on a coil spring unit where you can mess with different springs and spring combinations ….

Drop your tyre pressure something like 15 psi and have a go  Suspension also has a big role to play in getting off the line .

Pauls bike Ran a coil spring clutch with 4 "tired" springs with a 49mm Stack and 90 Thou air gap  with a 75 shot up its ass from the go so 180 BHP on a good day in a long bike with a 7" Slick  but it was strip only  1.4 60fts 

With a road / RWYB  there is always a trade off and low 60fts mean more clutch maintenance ….

 

[Arttu]

8 hours ago, badger said:

Practice is super hard as there isn't a bit of road long enough that's quiet enough. Traction really was an issue but all I had was a shit bit of road. 

100% needs better suspension set up. Traction felt better with a softer set up which I might go back to for a rwyb in a few weeks.

It's also good to keep in mind that there can be huge variation in traction on normal road surface. A couple of different examples from the same day, same tire, same setup:

Random clean looking smooth piece of road, no burnout - Spins tire right away when trying any harder launch, won't lift the front in any case.

Air field, cleaned normal asphalt. No glue but some rubber from other cars and bikes. Short burnout. - No any traction problems, just wheelies when trying to launch too hard.

[Gixer1460]

What you are seeking - as others have said - is consistancy! Unfortunately a road or an average RWYB surface (unless its SP) will be variable to the extent no consistancy is possible. In that case, a two step may not be the best solution. Some clutch tuning may help but if its a ride to and from, road bike you will be limited in what is possible whilst getting used to controlling and riding through enevitable wheelies! Softening compression and increasing rebound on rear shock will help as will strapping the front forks and as Clive says 15psi is a good starting rear tyre pressure (just don't forget to pump it up again if riding home - yes we've all done it!)

[badger]

13 hours ago, Duckndive said:

i looked in your project thread but it dont mention what clutch you are using ..? 

If its a diaphragm unit then "IMO" tuning the static "base pressure" is a lot harder than on a coil spring unit where you can mess with different springs and spring combinations ….

Drop your tyre pressure something like 15 psi and have a go  Suspension also has a big role to play in getting off the line .

Pauls bike Ran a coil spring clutch with 4 "tired" springs with a 49mm Stack and 90 Thou air gap  with a 75 shot up its ass from the go so 180 BHP on a good day in a long bike with a 7" Slick  but it was strip only  1.4 60fts 

With a road / RWYB  there is always a trade off and low 60fts mean more clutch maintenance ….

 

Gsxf motor, 4 spring clutch with a lock up. 

I wasn't just dumping the clutch but even easing it out I was spinning. You've all said the track/ road what ever is gonna be different again and again. I think the consistency I want isn't really gonna happen. Not the way that I'd like. 

I'll lower the tyre a lot more when I'm at the track. Need a pump, mines died  I've been pissing about with suspension for more road readiness which feels much less forgiving wheelie and spinning wise. 

I'll take my laptop racing and see how it goes and adjust some rpms from there but I'm not gonna expect a miracle. Sadly you don't get a 60ft time at the track which is wank. Years back, pre turbo I was doing pretty consistent 1.6-7 which I was happy with. 

Massively appreciate the input. I'm gutted there's one strip in a realistic travelling distance!

I want a nine. 2 dudes have managed it on bikes so I want in on that bandwagon 

 

 

 

 

 

[Duckndive]

On 6/21/2023 at 1:38 PM, badger said:

Gsxf motor, 4 spring clutch with a lock up. 

I wasn't just dumping the clutch but even easing it out I was spinning. You've all said the track/ road what ever is gonna be different again and again. I think the consistency I want isn't really gonna happen. Not the way that I'd like. 

I'll lower the tyre a lot more when I'm at the track. Need a pump, mines died  I've been pissing about with suspension for more road readiness which feels much less forgiving wheelie and spinning wise. 

I'll take my laptop racing and see how it goes and adjust some rpms from there but I'm not gonna expect a miracle. Sadly you don't get a 60ft time at the track which is wank. Years back, pre turbo I was doing pretty consistent 1.6-7 which I was happy with. 

Massively appreciate the input. I'm gutted there's one strip in a realistic travelling distance!

I want a nine. 2 dudes have managed it on bikes so I want in on that bandwagon 

The one thing that's costs nothing but you will learn the most from is put clear white line on tyre sidewall "shoe white is good" then  get someone to stand about 30 degrees to the rear and video you leaving the line and run . 

you will then see what is actually happening to suspension , tyre, etc and what you are really doing   ... 

[badger]

28 minutes ago, Duckndive said:

The one thing that's costs nothing but you will learn the most from is put clear white line on tyre sidewall "shoe white is good" then  get someone to stand about 30 degrees to the rear and video you leaving the line and run . 

you will then see what is actually happening to suspension , tyre, etc and what you are really doing   ... 

Will do! Thanks!