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Stick coils


wraith

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Not going to highjack someone else thread, was thinking of this then not but now am, going to put some on the Hellcat (gsx1100f, b12 engine project) xD 

So, will the 98 on ward coils work? 

Has anybody got a wiring diagram as to how to wire them up? 

This is all a bit new stuff for me xD

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It's a few years since I converted mine to stick coils, but I seem to remember that the resistance on 98, 99 srad wasn't suitable.  The k1 to k4 R coils work out very close to 3 ohms when linked in series. There's other makes with the correct resistance coils, Triumph daytona 600 and 650, Kawasaki zx6r...but I don't know which years. 

If I fire up my old laptop I'm pretty sure I've got the diagram from practical sportsbikes.....which is what I used to do mine.

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52 minutes ago, Oilyspanner said:

 

If I fire up my old laptop I'm pretty sure I've got the diagram from practical sportsbikes.....which is what I used to do mine.

It would be great if you could, maybe it could become a pinned thread make it easy for anyone interested to do the same :tu

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1 hour ago, Oilyspanner said:

It's a few years since I converted mine to stick coils, but I seem to remember that the resistance on 98, 99 srad wasn't suitable.  The k1 to k4 R coils work out very close to 3 ohms when linked in series. There's other makes with the correct resistance coils, Triumph daytona 600 and 650, Kawasaki zx6r...but I don't know which years. 

If I fire up my old laptop I'm pretty sure I've got the diagram from practical sportsbikes.....which is what I used to do mine.

That would be helpful (y) I will have a look for some k1-k4 coils 

Anybody used any other years? Just to keep the search open :D

As below mite be a good sticky post on this subject what we could add to as to what works and what doesn't ? 

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1 minute ago, wraith said:

That would be helpful (y) I will have a look for some k1-k4 coils 

Anybody used any other years? Just to keep the search open :D

As below mite be a good sticky post on this subject what we could add to as to what works and what doesn't ? 

I've seen reports on here of some people having weak spark or other running issues after switching to stick coils, which has been part of why I keep procrastinating on doing the swap on any of my bikes. It would be nice to know what works and what doesn't.  I do remember being told R6 coils work, but can't remember what year they were. I think mid to late 2000s.

Those magazine scans are what I remember going by originally as well.

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There were a few bikes in the early 2000s that used similar spec stick coils. I've heard that the R6 used a similar spec too. I plumped for the early K series coils as I knew they worked. Converted mine many years back (8 or 9 years)and they've worked very well. My bike's had high compression pistons etc for 5 years and covered 12/13000 miles and the spark seems to coped well with that. Turbo and nitrous probably not though.

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12 minutes ago, Oilyspanner said:

There were a few bikes in the early 2000s that used similar spec stick coils. I've heard that the R6 used a similar spec too. I plumped for the early K series coils as I knew they worked. Converted mine many years back (8 or 9 years)and they've worked very well. My bike's had high compression pistons etc for 5 years and covered 12/13000 miles and the spark seems to coped well with that. Turbo and nitrous probably not though.

This is great ,I recall people saying that it wouldn't work and would burn out the ecu but if ,like you you get the right cops it works 

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2 hours ago, spiderpig said:

Is there any real advantage other than cost? 

Probably seeing as all motor manufacturers use them now. Secondhand they do work out cheaper than normal coils, leads and caps but one big advantage for non-stock bikes is space saving under the tank. Before using stick coils I have never had a rebuilt bike start first press on the button but that's N = 1 so an anecdote and anecdotes aren't data.

Edited by Dezza
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Can't complain about the 200g LOSS in weight but as regards access - Hmmm! If you put the replacements where the factory wants you to put them, then yes I agree - so put them somewhere else! I had mine under the seat with my turbo install - lift seat instant access, just long plug leads. Getting sticks out from a tight under tank is still a PITA.

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  • 4 weeks later...
59 minutes ago, Smifee said:

Interesting topic, Does anyone know why they are wired in series and not parallel?

Because they have such low resistance ie. usually 1.5 ohm or below, if you use them in series, you add the resistances together so 2x 1.5 ohm = 3 ohm and about equal to a normal twin tower coil, but each stick will be receiving about 6-7v each. If wired in parallel, the sticks will get 12-14v each but circuit resistance is halved, which poses problems for std. ignitors or rather their power transistors. With 3.0 ohm resistance and 12v the transistors are handling about 4amps (12v / 3r = 4a) but changing that to (in parallel) you get 12v / 0.75r = 16a - so 4x the power which will burn them out. A std OEM ignitor is usually max'd out if using 2.2 ohm Dyna coils. This is about the limit of my basic electronics theory understanding so an adult may rectify if i'm wrong LOL!

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  • 1 month later...

Look up Denso coil connectors and they'll come up.#bay normally have them too. If your dual coil system is working well there's no real improvement,  but old ht leads and coils often play up, or the caps get loose etc. The wiring loom is very flexible,  not rigid like ht leads, so nice to route where you want - you free up a chunk of space where the coils were (can put the main loom there) and it's really easy to get the coils and harness out of the way when you want to remove the cam cover.

Starting does seem very good.

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