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Newbie buying a Suzuki Inazuma 750.


Tomas005

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Hi everyone! :)... Just thought Id say hello as I am new here, joined today and looking for tips from you guys for my forthcoming purchase of a Inazuma 750 from 1998 with 15,000 miles on the clock from two previous owners (within the same family).

I am planning to buy it Monday the 09th of Jan',  I've never had a big bike before, this will be my first proper bike and I am a little restless with regards to potential problems with this model as here in Spain is a rare model...  on top of that just to make it more nerve racking, mechanics for me is like watching a Korean film without subtitles...  (basically I passed my test in October and know nothing about mechanics)

I would deeply appreciate any advice on what to look for with regards typical problems with regards to this bike. 

Thank you a lot in advance! 
 

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Edited by Tomas005
spelling mistake
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  • Tomas005 changed the title to Newbie buying a Suzuki Inazuma 750.

Hello Tomas, nice bike generally the oilcooled bikes are very good,share lots of parts with other models yours will have parts that interchange with bandits and teapots(gsx-f) 600 and 750's and if you like to go faster 1200 engine will fit too maintain it well and it will look after you

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Bearing in mind your lack of mechanical skills - look at overall condition, look for grease and oil around screws, bolts and nuts that you would 'expect' to be moved / removed regularly ie, wheel axle nuts and bolts, footrest pivots, stand pivots, control levers. Are there any oil leaks ( I assume the two drips in last pic aren't from this bike?) Service history ? Does the oil filter (at front of engine low down) look new / newish, is it a Suzuki part? Check chain for wear - can you pull it off the rear sprocket, backwards, anymore than a little indicates wear, are sprocket teeth hooked / very sharp points - indicates getting towards replacement.  Take someone with you who knows bikes and can assist to balance bike on centrestand - spin the wheels to see if brakes are binding / dragging, are wheel bearings free / not grinding / noisy. Are tyres good / not cracked? Does engine start easily (cold would be good) on / off choke, does it run 'easily' and rev freely, does it smoke - black or blue smoke - walk away or bargain down the price as you don't want to be tearing into an engine! Test ride - does it feel ok, does suspension work, does it ride in a straight line without too much assistance, do brakes work! ! !. Check any paperwork and DOT tests are current and up to date. Lift the seat - some 'grease' around the battery terminals would be a good sign that some care / maintenance has been given!

You'll be excited to buy it, but look at it through a pessamists eyes, look for faults and point them out - makes negotiating the sale price easier - if your assistant knows bikes ask their opinion but don't necessarily rely on it!

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2 minutes ago, DAZ said:

Hello Tomas, nice bike generally the oilcooled bikes are very good,share lots of parts with other models yours will have parts that interchange with bandits and teapots(gsx-f) 600 and 750's and if you like to go faster 1200 engine will fit too maintain it well and it will look after you

Thanks for that DAZ! parts was also another of my fears, I learned about the Bandits but did not know about the gsx-f, indeed the 1200 will be my next move after a year or so... cheers again DAZ!

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44 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

Bearing in mind your lack of mechanical skills - look at overall condition, look for grease and oil around screws, bolts and nuts that you would 'expect' to be moved / removed regularly ie, wheel axle nuts and bolts, footrest pivots, stand pivots, control levers. Are there any oil leaks ( I assume the two drips in last pic aren't from this bike?) Service history ? Does the oil filter (at front of engine low down) look new / newish, is it a Suzuki part? Check chain for wear - can you pull it off the rear sprocket, backwards, anymore than a little indicates wear, are sprocket teeth hooked / very sharp points - indicates getting towards replacement.  Take someone with you who knows bikes and can assist to balance bike on centrestand - spin the wheels to see if brakes are binding / dragging, are wheel bearings free / not grinding / noisy. Are tyres good / not cracked? Does engine start easily (cold would be good) on / off choke, does it run 'easily' and rev freely, does it smoke - black or blue smoke - walk away or bargain down the price as you don't want to be tearing into an engine! Test ride - does it feel ok, does suspension work, does it ride in a straight line without too much assistance, do brakes work! ! !. Check any paperwork and DOT tests are current and up to date. Lift the seat - some 'grease' around the battery terminals would be a good sign that some care / maintenance has been given!

You'll be excited to buy it, but look at it through a pessamists eyes, look for faults and point them out - makes negotiating the sale price easier - if your assistant knows bikes ask their opinion but don't necessarily rely on it!

Amazing input, thanks ever so much Gixer1460! :tu, I will write down all this and memorise it, so it look like I know what I am doing... xD... Unfortunately I doubt it will be room for negotiation, a bike with same age and higher miles they go for around £2300 and the seller has advertise it for £2000 for a non haggling fast sale, I will follow your tips on faults pointing and hope I do not leave with a blue eye...xD 

Thanks ever so much! (y)

Edited by Tomas005
wrong tool
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1 hour ago, Tomas005 said:

I would deeply appreciate any advice on what to look for with regards typical problems with regards to this bike. 

Thank you a lot in advance! 

Make Sure the Fuel Tank has not Rotted out   "common Issue" and hard to source 

Aside from that no real issues most running gear is Blandit ..

Front forks are a bit heinz 57 as there a combination of various model bits but discs and calipers are B6...

The Rear shocks are crap "fake gas reservoir"  

Carbs are tiny 32mm jobs ....And Dont Fit Pods or Bin the Airbox 

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1 hour ago, denisd said:

Welcome lad, I think I see a hole or repaired hole at the top of number 4 downpipe (the right hand side as you sit on the bike), check it out and the rest of the pipes, it might be an expensive replacement for you. 

their stainless Denis so can be welded then flattened back then polished :tu 

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1 hour ago, denisd said:

Welcome lad, I think I see a hole or repaired hole at the top of number 4 downpipe (the right hand side as you sit on the bike), check it out and the rest of the pipes, it might be an expensive replacement for you. 

 

9 minutes ago, TonyGee said:

their stainless Denis so can be welded then flattened back then polished :tu 

 Might be double skinned so only cosmetic , I know my stock bandit headers were weight a tonne !

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2 hours ago, Duckndive said:

Make Sure the Fuel Tank has not Rotted out   "common Issue" and hard to source 

Aside from that no real issues most running gear is Blandit ..

Front forks are a bit heinz 57 as there a combination of various model bits but discs and calipers are B6...

The Rear shocks are crap "fake gas reservoir"  

Carbs are tiny 32mm jobs ....And Dont Fit Pods or Bin the Airbox 

Wow! O.o did not know about the rear shock... How do I check the rust in the fuel tank? can be seen from the fuel cap? Thanks a lot Duckndive! 

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Look for rust along the lower seams, and between the pressings. Everything’s repairable, but you don’t want to have to get the tools out before you start … unless the seller drops his price. Don’t be scared to say what you think is wrong with the bike. If he won’t move, walk away. There’s plenty more out there!

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1 minute ago, Swiss Toni said:

Look for rust along the lower seams, and between the pressings. Everything’s repairable, but you don’t want to have to get the tools out before you start … unless the seller drops his price. Don’t be scared to say what you think is wrong with the bike. If he won’t move, walk away. There’s plenty more out there!

yep as Toni said,  let your head rule your heart :tu 

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18 minutes ago, Tomas005 said:

Wow! O.o did not know about the rear shock... How do I check the rust in the fuel tank? can be seen from the fuel cap? Thanks a lot Duckndive! 

Torch through the filler cap is your only way internally light surface rust can be dealt with easily it's heavy flaky rust you want to avoid ,externally look for bubbling paint,silicone/mastic/any bodgy  type sealant esp under the tank if you spot any give it a good firm prodding see if it moves and knock money off or walk away because replacement tank would be rare 

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Hi Andy welcome to OSS.

Apart for all the standard bits to look at when buying any bike/car xD 

The two things I've heard about that can give you trouble, is fuel tank rusting (as said above) and carbs leaking. Which could be the float needle seats and they can't be replaced (easy) 

So do all your standard checks to see if you like the bike, start it up, let it run/take it for a run, should be nice and smooth all the way through the rev range. When you turn the engine off leave it for 10 minutes and see if any fuel or oil has dropped under the bike. If not and it runs good and you like it, get it.

Some my say price is a bit high some would say about right, seen these go for anywhere between £1200 to £2400

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