Alt drive gear swap

[Jdeac]

Hi all. How do you swap the drive gears on alternators. I have a gsxr one that's playing silly bugger. And a known good b12 one but drive teeth are 2 out. All help appreciated.

Cheers jon

[fatblokeonbandit]

Undo the nut and swop them over

 

they are normally centre popped to peen the thread over a bit so they don't come undone, 

 

Edited September 15, 2022 by fatblokeonbandit

[TonyGee]

yeah make sure the nut is tight and secure !!!!  

[Jdeac]

Thanks chaps. But how do you hold the gear to undo the nut??

[Devilman]

1 minute ago, Jdeac said:

Thanks chaps. But how do you hold the gear to undo the nut??

I just clamped it in a vice with a couple bits of hardwood to act as "Soft Jaws" so as to not mark the teeth of the gear

[Jdeac]

@Devilmanon the gear it self?? And is there a torque setting for the nut chaps

[Devilman]

Just now, Jdeac said:

@Devilmanon the gear it self?? And is there a torque setting for the nut chaps

Yep on the gear itself, I just clamped it tight in a vice with a thick bit of hardwood on both sides to protect the teeth.

As for Torque... I'd have to check the manwell () to be sure, but pretty sure I just set it to "German Torque" (Gutten Tight) 

[Jdeac]

Racing on the weekend so need it sorted. Had loads of issues recently think I've go all sorted. Apart from this which came up today.

[Devilman]

1 minute ago, Jdeac said:

Racing on the weekend so need it sorted. Had loads of issues recently think I've go all sorted. Apart from this which came up today.

Just checked through the Haynes GSXR, Bandit and a genuine Suzuki 600 Bandit manual for the Torque settings..

GSXR manual doesn't even list them (lol), the Haynes Bandit manual says 55-60nm (40-44lb/ft) and the genuine Suzuki bandit 600 manual also says 55nm (40lb/ft)



As for removal, the vice / wood method is even what they describe in the official Suzuki manual :-

Just be careful not to clamp onto / squeeze the "damper housing" below the gear (It's basically like a cush drive)

[Jdeac]

That's great thanks. Is that info from a Haynes manual? Or...

[Devilman]

16 minutes ago, Jdeac said:

That's great thanks. Is that info from a Haynes manual? Or...

Those pics come from an "Official" Suzuki manual for the Bandit 600, but the process is the same for all the oil cooled motors

[Jdeac]

That's great thanks alot. Does it say about peening to lock the nut back on?

[Devilman]

4 minutes ago, Jdeac said:

That's great thanks alot. Does it say about peening to lock the nut back on?

It does indeed make mention of "re-staking" the nut after tightening.

[TonyGee]

when i did mine i got it as tight as feck,  also used locktite and peened it as well,   if that nut comes off it can make a mess 

[Jdeac]

Is this done between the nut and the shaft?? (Peening)

 

[Devilman]

6 minutes ago, Jdeac said:

Is this done between the nut and the shaft?? (Peening)

 

If you check @fatblokeonbandit's post earlier with the pics of the 2 alternators, you can see the 3 "peening" marks at the tip of the shaft on both of them.

Edited September 15, 2022 by Devilman

[Jdeac]

Got it thanks. Didn't think to zoom in!! Thanks all

[Jdeac]

On a side note. What should the voltage be showing on the red feed to starter solenoid. Bike running alternator disconnected?? 

Edited September 15, 2022 by Jdeac

[Devilman]

11 minutes ago, Jdeac said:

On a side note. What should the voltage be showing on the red feed to starter solenoid. Bike running alternator disconnected?? 

If you're talking about the heavy feed to the solenoid (the "switched" feed to the starter, rather than the control feed) , I would expect it to be at , or very close to battery voltage. (within 0.1 or 0.2v at most)

Edited September 15, 2022 by Devilman

[Jdeac]

@Devilmanthe feed cable to the positive side of the starter solenoid from the alternator.

[Devilman]

1 hour ago, Jdeac said:

@Devilmanthe feed cable to the positive side of the starter solenoid from the alternator.

Yeh should see the same or within 0.1-0.2v of battery voltage.  It's just done that way as there is no real need to run a heavy cable all the way back to the battery from the alternator, as well as having one coming from it to the starter. The alternator is in effect charging the battery back along the heavy feed wire to the starter solenoid.

[george 1100]

3 hours ago, Jdeac said:

@Devilmanthe feed cable to the positive side of the starter solenoid from the alternator.

Why don't you ditch it and run total loss. Saves 5kg also

[Jdeac]

@george 1100 it's a turbo bike with extra electronics