Stock hose clamps doesn't clamp enough, false air leak.

[Gixer1460]

12 hours ago, Safra said:

Sorry to hijack has anyone used intercooler hose as replacements for these hoses I'm having a hard time finding them new on my end of the world 

Dayco radiator canvas / rubber hose used to be used in racing and turbo installs - don't use silicone type pipe as it's too slippery!

[KATANAMANGLER]

On 8/5/2022 at 10:24 PM, gorbys said:

New clamps. Still bottoming out. 

However, I discovered something today that is also problematic and may have been throwing me off. So I've been having trouble obtaining steady idle as mentioned. Now I can get a steady idle but not a low steady idle. Like I set it at 1100, give it a revup and now we're at 1900! Or it'll go down to 1100 again and then go lower and eventually die.... Its like there is no in-between and finding that sweet spot is super hard. 

So in anger while my idle was revving up I stuck my thumbs on the throttle linkage either side and pretty much forced it shut. And voila, low and steady idle... I let go of the linkage and it holds the low idle for a little bit then starts creeping up again. So there is definitely something going on with the linkage/throttle assembly as well... Anyone have some ideas? 

I've read through your thread and it all sounds painfully familiar. Especially the diagnosing with your wallet parts.

New rubbers and OEM clips should have eleminated the air leak though. As an aside I normally remove the OEM chocolate JIS screws on the clamps and replace them with M4 stainless socket heads of the same length. I find they give a more positive drive when you are tightening a loosening them.

If I was having a half blind stab at pointing you down a different rabbit hole I would say have you balanced the carbs? On the CVs there are 3 screws between the linkages that allow you to balance 1 & 2 together, 3&4 together then balance the two pairs together. To do this properly you need a set of vacuume gauges. What you are esentially doing is ensuring the the butterflies are allowing the same rate of draw on all 4 inlets. You can do that on the bench with a physical gauge but it doesn't ever take into account any wear and tear in the butterflies so it's better done dynamically measuring the draw with a vacuum gauge.

All that said, it's an engine and as such it's the sum of its parts or more accurately its systems. It's important to run through those and check them all methodically to avoid disappearing down any single rabbit hole ( we all do it)

Basics: 

Compression.

Valve clearance.

Spark plug gap, spark plug health and leads.

If those are all good. Then you are able to look at the air and fuel system ( the carbs) safe in the knowledge that the other systems are in spec.

One last disclainer: Constant velocity (CV) carbs are notoriously unhappy running without an airbox and the best you'll every get is a imperfect balance between the circuits that work when you are accelerating ( needle and main) and the idle circuit. Because the CV needs a draw to activate the diaphragm and lift the needle it works best with an airbox. Ultimately, if you want an airboxless set up my advice is get a set of RS carbs where the slide is directly activated by the throttle cable.

All that said, you'll get it to work and most of us have ridden around quite happily with that imperfect set up without any real issues.

[gorbys]

On 8/11/2022 at 8:06 AM, KATANAMANGLER said:

I've read through your thread and it all sounds painfully familiar. Especially the diagnosing with your wallet parts.

New rubbers and OEM clips should have eleminated the air leak though. As an aside I normally remove the OEM chocolate JIS screws on the clamps and replace them with M4 stainless socket heads of the same length. I find they give a more positive drive when you are tightening a loosening them.

If I was having a half blind stab at pointing you down a different rabbit hole I would say have you balanced the carbs? On the CVs there are 3 screws between the linkages that allow you to balance 1 & 2 together, 3&4 together then balance the two pairs together. To do this properly you need a set of vacuume gauges. What you are esentially doing is ensuring the the butterflies are allowing the same rate of draw on all 4 inlets. You can do that on the bench with a physical gauge but it doesn't ever take into account any wear and tear in the butterflies so it's better done dynamically measuring the draw with a vacuum gauge.

All that said, it's an engine and as such it's the sum of its parts or more accurately its systems. It's important to run through those and check them all methodically to avoid disappearing down any single rabbit hole ( we all do it)

Basics: 

Compression.

Valve clearance.

Spark plug gap, spark plug health and leads.

If those are all good. Then you are able to look at the air and fuel system ( the carbs) safe in the knowledge that the other systems are in spec.

One last disclainer: Constant velocity (CV) carbs are notoriously unhappy running without an airbox and the best you'll every get is a imperfect balance between the circuits that work when you are accelerating ( needle and main) and the idle circuit. Because the CV needs a draw to activate the diaphragm and lift the needle it works best with an airbox. Ultimately, if you want an airboxless set up my advice is get a set of RS carbs where the slide is directly activated by the throttle cable.

All that said, you'll get it to work and most of us have ridden around quite happily with that imperfect set up without any real issues.

Carb syncing is something I need to do/check again but I'm still waiting on my exhaust muffler to arrive from hindle as I don't fancy doing it with open exhaust in the middle of a crowded neighbourhood... 

Also I mentioned this issue to the guy I'm dealing with at suzuki performance spares and got this back: 

"Suzuki seem to have changed/substituted some of their inlet rubber clip part numbers recently and i have seen a similar issue before. they should not bottom out really." 

So yeah, I probably have the wrong clamps even if they where ordered for my spesific engine.