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Bearings...crank shaft rebuild


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I have a GS1000 crank that I need to rebuild and put my straight cut primary drive on.

I have a good crank in bike now, but have had a spare crank on the shelf for years that I was intending on doing the gear swap. That crank has bad bearings after sitting for over 12 years. So I need new bearings. It looks like GS1000, GS1100, and various other GSbikes have the same bearing part numbers. Suzuki has 5 of the 6 needed bearings still available.

But I had no idea how freakin expensive they are....WTF. Anyone have a source for the same quality or better bearings for crank rebuilds?....or a source for the NLA end bearing?

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A quick google tells me those are 72mm OD and one of 'em has a pip, and the other has a dowel hole... that makes them OEM.

... but check Boats.net or Partzilla. They have one of the two.  $125USD

https://www.boats.net/product/suzuki/09264-32003

... but if you can live without the PIP, the other one is a 6306N, available at any bearing house.

... and if you're using a straight cut primary, why not use  a roller instead of a single row? NU306ECP

I am not a big fan of the PIP on a crank bearing. It's there to keep the bearing from spinning if it seizes. I figure if you've seized a crank bearing that hard: You got other problems... and IF you have the PIP and seize THAT hard, the PIP digs a NICE trench in your cases... just sorta as a SCREW YOU on the way out.

... and this is from ten minutes with my google.fu. I'm too lazy to walk downstairs and dig out a crank and measure these bearings. I'd advise you to measure your bearings before you use these numbers. My head may be up my ass.

 

Try buying crank bearings for a Ducati bevel... they're oodball size AND 30 degree contact, about $400. (NOT in my bevel... I use 15 degree bearings that I get CHEAP)

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11 hours ago, bitzz said:

I am not a big fan of the PIP on a crank bearing. It's there to keep the bearing from spinning if it seizes. I figure if you've seized a crank bearing that hard: You got other problems... and IF you have the PIP and seize THAT hard, the PIP digs a NICE trench in your cases... just sorta as a SCREW YOU on the way out.

I don't believe that is the reason Suzuki included the pin! Unlike shell bearings, the cases aren't 'precision tolerance' machined as the roller bearings have a degree of tolerance in fit between the bearing outer race and the case, sufficient that, in use, the outer could spin in the case which is bad for the cases and the rollers as well - so the addition of the pin still allows the 'slack fit' and stops the potential spin simply.

To the OP - unused bearings sitting on a shelf don't just 'go bad' unless the shelf happens to be outside! A surface layer of rust may look horrendous but careful cleaning, soaking in diesel etc. may get them back to acceptable use state - binning £1000 worth of new bearings + the labour to split the crank and rebuild it, would be hard to stomach for most people! 

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The bearings on the crank are definitely rusted, and the crank has to be split to put the gear on either way. The bike will be a keeper and only want to open it up once. So many parts from Suzuki have gone NLA since the Covid crap completely screwed things... Parts for my RGV250 VJ23 are non existent now, and anyone with NOS spares sells them for more than their weight in gold.

It's sad where things have gone.

I guess I should have bought the bearings 10-15 years ago when I was collecting some of the other parts for the project. Never thought that bearings would be that much for the GS crank, as I have rebuilt a number of two stroke cranks in the past of more obscure bikes for much less. 

The crank in the bike is perfectly fine as far as I know.....but I have the straight cut GS1100 count primaries and billet basket I want to use.... Had hoped I could just simply rebuild the spare, but maybe I will have to use the one in bike after all.

 

Edited by busa1300
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