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Time Machine AMA GS1000 40 years too late.


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Posted (edited)

Looking into bringing a project I started collecting for 15 years ago, back to life.

Started collecting bits for it when I could still find good stuff on the E auction site at reasonable prices. And then 2009 hit, and damn near wiped me out…$$$... I managed to save the bike, but when life slowly got back to normal, I got into two strokes, and the GS collected dust instead of more parts. Then around 2016, I bought a parts bike for my 78, because it was close to home and cheap. But after I started looking at it and got the parts bike running….my GS was left behind once again. The parts bike (Left for Dead GS1000) took my attention and $$$.

Parts bike (Left for Dead GS1000) was sold a few years ago, and I think it’s time to bring my old skunk back to life.

But…..after looking for bits I still need, it seems parts I need from Suzuki are NLA now…. As are most parts I have needed on my two stroke projects…Covid really shut off a lot of parts from factory parts lists on everything it seems.

 

This will not be a quick project. I will be happy if I even get a chance to start it by winter (providing I have the parts I need by then.

 

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Edited by busa1300
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Wheels are EPM on the bike, 19 front, 18 rear….but I have a pair of 18’s I’m putting on the bike. Also have a set of Kosman 13 inch cast iron first gen floating rotors on aluminum carrier’s, and full set of Lockheed calipers front/rear.

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I picked up a billet straight cut GS1100 clutch years ago. Originally I thought about cutting it down to GS1000 dimensions to fit under the cover. But not sure if that would work. The other thought was to make a spacer for my clutch cover, to move it out so the throw out arm shaft lines up….

…anyone try either method?

 

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On 6/9/2022 at 7:59 AM, busa1300 said:

I picked up a billet straight cut GS1100 clutch years ago. Originally I thought about cutting it down to GS1000 dimensions to fit under the cover. But not sure if that would work. The other thought was to make a spacer for my clutch cover, to move it out so the throw out arm shaft lines up….

…anyone try either method?

 

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I've got a GSX basket in my GS1000, need to take about 8mm off IIRC

Spacer doesn't work, because the basket sits behind a part of the crankcase

Edited by Reinhoud
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  • 3 weeks later...

My straight cut crank primary showed up from MTC today.
Next step is to start looking for crank bearings. Thinking GS1150 bearings are the same size but have more balls in the races…? Research time again.

 

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I know where I can get two more Spondons, but I am waiting for the guy to give up on his project. He had them on a TZ350 he bought.

I have always wanted a set of Astralites....but also quite rare over here....love those front rotor carriers...definitely vintage cool. Looks like 88-90 GSXR forks. Cool bike, I have seen that before online (probably on here at some point.) (y)

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On 6/29/2022 at 8:30 AM, busa1300 said:

My straight cut crank primary showed up from MTC today.
Next step is to start looking for crank bearings. Thinking GS1150 bearings are the same size but have more balls in the races…? Research time again.

 

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Do you actually need straight cut gears? from about 180hp I would consider this.

The bearings are very expensive, while you're there you want new big end bearings too, and there's the challange, lot of companies say they have them, hardly anyone can actually deliver, I think I bought the last 4 what were available.. ;)

 

https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs1000-1979-n-general-export-e01_model13512/bearing_0926432002/

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28 minutes ago, Reinhoud said:

Do you actually need straight cut gears? from about 180hp I would consider this.

Straight cut gears aren't necessarily 'stronger' but they minimise side pressure on the clutch basket - helical gears are stronger as they have more teeth contacting at any one point, run quieter but do induce side loading, they also absorb more power - only fractional due to forgoing points but its there!

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4 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

Straight cut gears aren't necessarily 'stronger' but they minimise side pressure on the clutch basket - helical gears are stronger as they have more teeth contacting at any one point, run quieter but do induce side loading, they also absorb more power - only fractional due to forgoing points but its there!

I know

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