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1994 Turbo RF build

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14 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

Maybe worth looking into the possibility of swapping the whole basket, hub and pressure plate from the 1100W and fitting a 1000 or Busa multi stage? The latter certainly can take that sort of power? May require some clever engineering but better than tearing up plates every 5 minutes?

Yes, I'll look into it.

Replaced the plugs and changed the oil.

Went to the track again but didn't run.

Got the symptoms of blown head gasket. White puff at start-up and sweet smell.

No big deal, season is over. I'll replace it, copper coat it and go dry block. No more issues.

It doesn't stress me out at all.





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I replaced the head gasket, removed all the coolant and associate components. 

Now dry block. Also installed a scavenge pump. My oil level was just 3/4 below the turbo centerline. Had oil in the exhaust.

Problem fixed (temporarily for one more race).

Got idea for boost creep problem... A 90* + a 45* pipe and associate V-band (3).





Turbo re-design winter 2022-23.png


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  • 2 weeks later...

Now having water pump issues.

Shaft is bad and seals are busted.

I was getting coolant(water)  in the oil and leaking out water at the pump.

Awaiting a friend for his water pump and ordered parts to rebuild mine.

My 400 LPH fuel pump support 340 LPH @ 30 psi...

Last dyno graph when I spit #2 spark plug. 30 psi boost cut. recorded 37 psi.

Guess what, peak torque x rpm (9500) / 5252  = food for thought...

Off season scope:

- Water pump issues

- Relocate wastegate  / turbo  / up-pipe

- Swap 4 inputs

- Head steam  bearing replacement

- Extend wheelbase 4"

- Learn Maxx ECU

- Testing & clutch setups



water pump issues.jpg

198364669_10222774136075563_6901248490386372979_n - Copy.jpg

Turbo Dyno 30psi.jpg

Edited by 94RF1146
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51 minutes ago, 94RF1146 said:

Yes but not really necessary.

It can circulate by conversion. !/4 mile bike.

Based on my experience a pump would be helpful still. But it doesn't need to be very big or powerful. For example one that DME sells has been working just fine keeping temp rise during a quarter mile pull minimal. And it isn't especially powerful pump. You can get similarly performing ones at fraction of cost as generic car part.

I guess natural circulation would be too slow to prevent boiling at hot spots. A radiator isn't necessary, at least if you don't plan to run it back from end of the track. A couple liter water tank should be fine.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Winter project...

The watercooled 79.5mm piston kit is well known for not holding water in NA form, imagine under 30+ lbs of boost.

So I decided to go with a Mallory 110gph pump I had. I'm doing mockups with a hurt head that dropped a valve in 2010.

The plan is too keep the head and block deck dry while remaining them watercooled. I use baking soda as a filler and will use Chris Boyette expoxy kit that the Gurls blouse car guys are using.

Coming in from the water pump to the factory coolant ports in the front of the block > out the back of the block to the side of the cylinder head using -8 fittings > out back of the head factory coolant port > radiator cap / CLT sensor > radiator in tail > out radiator back to water pump.

Guys in Outlaws back in the days were going all dry or keeping water in the head. I don't like the heat generated by the dry block. Keeping both in my project.

I'll post pics when the motor is on the motor stand later.




Screenshot 2022-10-22 162716.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Front & rear wheel bearings done. 

Next is stem bearing this weekend.

Rod & main bearings later. 

2 thou on the mains & 2.5 thou on the rods. 20/50 oil with zzdp.

Here's my tech sheet with example for 3 different oil clearance. That's how I do it. If that can help someone...





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  • 1 month later...

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