ColinH Posted October 4 Posted October 4 5 hours ago, 94RF1146 said: Busa block. Look how different is the head gasket marks. Shame these aren’t cast iron as would be straight forward to hand scrape that to perfect mating surface with no gasket at all. Quote
94RF1146 Posted October 4 Author Posted October 4 (edited) On a custom billet block you can offset the cylinders (exemple : 2 & 3 moved forward a bit and 1 & 4 moved backward a bit). M. Edited October 4 by 94RF1146 Quote
94RF1146 Posted October 4 Author Posted October 4 4 hours ago, Duckndive said: Good question i don't know how far they can bore a busa block EDIT = + 3mm could a stroker crank gain 300cc ? but i know that most send the blocks to the USA for replating https://millennium-technologies.com/ The 84mm Busa overbore is prone to crack between cylinders. It's all over Psychobike. M. 1 Quote
94RF1146 Posted October 11 Author Posted October 11 (edited) Inspected the bottom end...all good, just replacing bearing each side of cam chain. Gonna start grinding the new top case (stock bore) to clear the rod bolts (65mm stroke). New stock 1074 block and 2 x Devcon 10710 epoxy on the way. Edited October 11 by 94RF1146 4 Quote
94RF1146 Posted October 15 Author Posted October 15 Good news today... Received my temporary NHRA license, my 2 package of Devcon 10710 and got my Team Ape sponsoring back for 2026 season. M. 8 Quote
94RF1146 Posted November 8 Author Posted November 8 Received my cylinder head. Cleaned it and started porting it (clean 60 grit + blend the pocket bowls). Gonna have the cooling ports welded for max surface area and rididity. 3 Quote
ColinH Posted November 9 Posted November 9 I am interested to see how deep they can fill the cavities with weld. I often thought of filling ports with molten aluminium to perhaps 5mm blow head level, then TIG welding the remaining height to tie it all in. not sure if that’s of any benefit though as all you need is more face for gasket area. Quote
Arttu Posted November 9 Posted November 9 1 hour ago, ColinH said: I am interested to see how deep they can fill the cavities with weld. I often thought of filling ports with molten aluminium to perhaps 5mm blow head level, then TIG welding the remaining height to tie it all in. One drag racer once told that he tried casting aluminium into a Busa head but the head warped too badly. For my friend's Busa we filled the head with tin-lead alloy. The idea was mainly to improve heat sinking capacity when running dry block. It worked quite ok but melting point was maybe slightly too low. After the engine was overheated once the alloy was started to melt on the exhaust side. 1 Quote
1260Pete1 Posted November 9 Posted November 9 30 minutes ago, Arttu said: One drag racer once told that he tried casting aluminium into a Busa head but the head warped too badly. For my friend's Busa we filled the head with tin-lead alloy. The idea was mainly to improve heat sinking capacity when running dry block. It worked quite ok but melting point was maybe slightly too low. After the engine was overheated once the alloy was started to melt on the exhaust side. There is a special concrete type material that we use in hayabusas that does the same thing. 1 Quote
Arttu Posted November 9 Posted November 9 6 minutes ago, 1260Pete1 said: There is a special concrete type material that we use in hayabusas that does the same thing. Yeah, I guess that's pretty much best option in reality. Only problem is that it doesn't conduct heat very well, if I recall correctly. Quote
ColinH Posted November 9 Posted November 9 1 hour ago, Arttu said: One drag racer once told that he tried casting aluminium into a Busa head but the head warped too badly. For my friend's Busa we filled the head with tin-lead alloy. The idea was mainly to improve heat sinking capacity when running dry block. It worked quite ok but melting point was maybe slightly too low. After the engine was overheated once the alloy was started to melt on the exhaust side. I’m thinking you would need the whole head very hot when poured so shrinkage is similar rates as like welding, it will pull like crazy when only small section shrinks. i guess at serious levels of warP you not only affect mating surface but cam alignment etc. perhaps not one to try! Quote
ColinH Posted November 9 Posted November 9 1 hour ago, 1260Pete1 said: There is a special concrete type material that we use in hayabusas that does the same thing. I know in machine tools they use epoxy granite as seriously ridgid but assume on engines it may be more metal based? Quote
Gixer1460 Posted November 9 Posted November 9 I'm aware of filled blocks either epoxy granite / sand / cement but I believe its more of a rigidity thing - they barely run more than 30 seconds so overheating isn't of primary concern when your pushing 50lbs of boost ! Doing the head as well - maybe not so easy to do as any pockets of trapped air 'could' explode the filling pneumatically? Its all a bit ghetto - easier to get a solid billet of aluminium, bore 4 big sleeved holes and numerous stud holes with a slot in the end and bingo ultra solid, rigid block! Quote
94RF1146 Posted November 10 Author Posted November 10 Welding the water ports is just to reinforce the head's deck., not filling up the whole thing. I should get my other block by the end of this week. Got my 0.041 wire to o-ring the block . I also got my JE custom pistons priced out from APE (4-6 weeks lead time)... I do little by little every week. M. 1 Quote
94RF1146 Posted Wednesday at 11:06 PM Author Posted Wednesday at 11:06 PM Got the wire. The block arrived at post office. Pick up tomorrow. 1 Quote
94RF1146 Posted Thursday at 10:42 PM Author Posted Thursday at 10:42 PM (edited) New to me block is in beautiful shape. Time to clean and re-enforce it. Edited Thursday at 10:43 PM by 94RF1146 3 Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.