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06 Katana 600F; No spark


CLAYA

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06 Katana 600F. Same issue, No spark. Have checked the coil inputs, ignition and interlock, pulse generator signals to the ICU. 12.4V at the battery and interlock input. 11.2V at the ignition input. 12.4V at the coils. Pulse generator pulsing. No square wave at the output of the ICU. (I see very noisy short pulses on a o-scope at the ICU output, but not nice square waves like I am expecting) 

 I cannot figure out the neutral switch voltages at the ICU. Can someone help with that? The neutral light is ON, but what voltages should I see at the ICU for the Neutral inputs?

The coil input voltage drops to about 10.6V when the starter is spinning, which does not seem right.  

Does anyone have voltage and signal levels at each ICU Pin? I can only find partial voltages and signals in the service manuals, and online. I think the ICU is bad, but without knowing what the correct voltages, and signals at the ICU I cannot test it. 

History: Bike has been down a LOT. Previous owner wired in a toggle switch in place of the ignition key-switch, and has been running fine with 12v to the ICU input. But suddenly it has no spark. Is it possible the 12V input to the ICU has blown it out?

The kickstand and clutch switches do nothing. The starter spins regardless of the clutch and kickstand position. I see no evidence of switch bypasses. 

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- How does the interlock on the side stand / clutch switch work on the 600F?

 

Some only cut the ignition signal, some also limit the starter motor from turning.

 

It is Fuel injected.. right? 

Then the clutch switch ICM with the neutral should select a "zero load map" 

 

Side stand + side stand relais ( sometimes combined with the blinker relais) , clutch switch, kill switch, tip over sensor... All are OK?

It does sound like you will be checking the wiring on the bike vs electrical drawing in the manual.

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@CLAYA

 

Whilst most of us will be trying to help you.... your bike is not very common on here:

Read why below: 

 

What is Oldskoolsuzuki?

From the original site:
 "Early eighties till early nineties, air/oil-cooled double-cradle frames SUZUKI inline fours GS/GSX/GSX-R non-commercial website for sharing technical information SHARE THE PASSION!"

So, that means that the primary focus is and has always been 4 cylinder GS, GSX and pre-watercooled GSX-R.

"But, there was other stuff on the old site" I hear you cry!
 Yes, some other Suzuki bikes were there however it was always a secondary thing. There is a difference between 'tolerance' and 'interest'. For example, pictures of a standard mint condition EFE or slabby would get people drooling however a standard bandit wouldn't have the same effect.

"But, we need a definitive list" I hear you ask!
 * OK so we know that 4 cylinder GS, GSX and pre-watercooled GSX-R are the primary focus
 * We don't mind pre-SRAD watercooled GSXRs as much as we do more modern stuff
 * SRADs just about slide in as do RFs
 * Hayabusas are in - first generation only
 * We like TLS and TLR 1000s
 * Being single can be fun, we like DR and DR-engined derivatives such as the Goose
 * Lets face it, 2-strokes are cool
 * Bikes with trick (or indeed later Suzuki or even non-Suzuki) frames with one of the above Suzuki engines. These need to have 'Suzuki' on the tank/bodywork though, rather than be pretending to be something else.

Water cooled / 650 bandits,  Y and K series onwards GSXRs and SVs just aren't old skool.

The contentious topic however, is and probably always will be, oil cooled bandits and indeed those new fangled GSX1400s. They share the majority of the engine components with the oil-cooled GSXRs. However, as above, standard bandits / GSX1400s just aren't that interesting. Trick ones are another thing though, there are indeed some out there and we're not talking bolt-on tat. GSXR running gear, 1216 / 1692, flatslides, turbos etc, that makes them interesting! So, you're not going to get banned for owning a bandit (did you see what we did there) or indeed a GSX1400 however please keep this place for interesting ones only. There are plenty of other places out there for standard and M&P catalogue magnet ones .

 

 

TA

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Baboon arse Teapot is how we call them here :)

No EFI but carbs. With the bike in gear and sidestand down the starter should not turn. Clutch always needs to be pulled for starting. That's how it is from the factory.

16 hours ago, CLAYA said:

 Previous owner wired in a toggle switch in place of the ignition key-switch, and has been running fine with 12v to the ICU input.

The ignition switch has a 100 ohm resistor built in to prevent hotwiring. If it has been running fine with the toggle switch, it means PO has installed a 100 ohm resistor somewhere. Maybe that has come loose/disconnected somehow.

EDIT orange/yellow wire from CDI/ICU should be connected to ground through a 100 ohm resistor. More here.

Edited by Captain Chaos
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11 hours ago, Captain Chaos said:

Baboon arse Teapot is how we call them here :)

No EFI but carbs. With the bike in gear and sidestand down the starter should not turn. Clutch always needs to be pulled for starting. That's how it is from the factory.

The ignition switch has a 100 ohm resistor built in to prevent hotwiring. If it has been running fine with the toggle switch, it means PO has installed a 100 ohm resistor somewhere. Maybe that has come loose/disconnected somehow.

EDIT orange/yellow wire from CDI/ICU should be connected to ground through a 100 ohm resistor. More here.

Curiously, there was a resistor lying on top of the head, but never installed. Suspect the PO had planned on using it but the switch bypass worked without it.. Till now. 

The signal generator coil magnet is broken in 3 places. I superglued the magnet back together, and the sig gen pulses look a little better on a scope, but still no square wave output from the ICU. Shouldn't the pulse signal be a sine wave? Or at least 3 of the 4 pulses be an AC sinewave?

(100 ohm resistor to ground.) Unlike the Bandit, there is no orange/yellow wire on the ignition switch of my 06 Katana. But there is a orange/yellow on the ICU. If it eventually gets pulled toward ground, I cannot see where that happens. Are you suggesting the ICU ignition input is active low? Does anyone know what voltage should be on the ignition input pin on the ICU?

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12 hours ago, Blubber said:

@CLAYA

 

Whilst most of us will be trying to help you.... your bike is not very common on here:

Read why below: 

 

What is Oldskoolsuzuki?

From the original site:
 "Early eighties till early nineties, air/oil-cooled double-cradle frames SUZUKI inline fours GS/GSX/GSX-R non-commercial website for sharing technical information SHARE THE PASSION!"

So, that means that the primary focus is and has always been 4 cylinder GS, GSX and pre-watercooled GSX-R.

"But, there was other stuff on the old site" I hear you cry!
 Yes, some other Suzuki bikes were there however it was always a secondary thing. There is a difference between 'tolerance' and 'interest'. For example, pictures of a standard mint condition EFE or slabby would get people drooling however a standard bandit wouldn't have the same effect.

"But, we need a definitive list" I hear you ask!
 * OK so we know that 4 cylinder GS, GSX and pre-watercooled GSX-R are the primary focus
 * We don't mind pre-SRAD watercooled GSXRs as much as we do more modern stuff
 * SRADs just about slide in as do RFs
 * Hayabusas are in - first generation only
 * We like TLS and TLR 1000s
 * Being single can be fun, we like DR and DR-engined derivatives such as the Goose
 * Lets face it, 2-strokes are cool
 * Bikes with trick (or indeed later Suzuki or even non-Suzuki) frames with one of the above Suzuki engines. These need to have 'Suzuki' on the tank/bodywork though, rather than be pretending to be something else.

Water cooled / 650 bandits,  Y and K series onwards GSXRs and SVs just aren't old skool.

The contentious topic however, is and probably always will be, oil cooled bandits and indeed those new fangled GSX1400s. They share the majority of the engine components with the oil-cooled GSXRs. However, as above, standard bandits / GSX1400s just aren't that interesting. Trick ones are another thing though, there are indeed some out there and we're not talking bolt-on tat. GSXR running gear, 1216 / 1692, flatslides, turbos etc, that makes them interesting! So, you're not going to get banned for owning a bandit (did you see what we did there) or indeed a GSX1400 however please keep this place for interesting ones only. There are plenty of other places out there for standard and M&P catalogue magnet ones .

 

 

TA

Understood, But the ignition circuit is similar, so expect some will have some insight. 

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