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Bandit to GsxR 1100 Clutch mod inquiry...


Gmantis

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Greetings. I'm back here after over 12 years being away. So I thought I'd kick it off with some questions on the Bandit12-Gsxr 1100 clutch swap. For the record, I performed this mod several years ago. 

The bike hasn't been started for 6 years, so I'm now going through it head to tail completely!!    My issue is varied; the Magura 190 clutch master cyl. (now defunct, broken and in the trash) has always been soft regardless of adjustment, and upon release a "chattering" occurs, but ONLY upon release of the lever. During riding, everything  goes well (or has gone well in the past) but it's always felt that it needed more of a pulse, if that makes sense? This conversion is per Lee Workman from this site years ago.  ...Is he still present here?

I just learned today from a good friend out there (UK) that the 1100 G,H, J  is cable operated, as opposed to the Bandit being hydraulic. Perhaps this is why it chatters? Is this where the ball bearing/push-pin comes into play and the stated "diameter options"? Looking at this practically and mechanically, I'm trying to understand where the marriage occurs between the hydraulic operation and the cable/mechanical operation.

Does it look like this?> Hydraulic clutch lever @ master cyl>fluid pressure to slave>slave fluid pressure inward>slave pushrod >to ball bearing>to clutch pushpin?...and from there something activates the clutch itself?

I'd also like to know what size clutch master cyl piston would be advised to potentially deter the chatter and function properly in general.  What size piston in the 1100? Seems lots of moving parts here need to come together.

Thanks for any advice.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Gmantis
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  • Gmantis changed the title to Bandit to GsxR 1100 Clutch mod inquiry...

You can save a whole load of expense by doing a cable conversion of the Blandit 12 engine using a sprocket cover from a 600 Blandit or a 600/750 teapot. The result is a simpler mechanism that is lighter both in the mass of the parts and the action to the rider. Why Suzuki did not fit this as standard to the 1100s and 1200s beats me.

Edited by Dezza
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Thank you for the encouragement Dezza. I have only to say that 1, I've already got the whole system locked in and pretty focused on getting  things working that are already in. And 2, I have a friend in the UK, Dodge, who would un-invite me to wheelie weekend if I went cable. He can be quite mean! :) plus, I wanna ride his 'busa again!  I will visit the Archives;don't want to be the new guy who upsets the moderator!  Gracias!

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43 minutes ago, Dezza said:

You can save a whole load of expense by doing a cable conversion of the Blandit 12 engine using a sprocket cover from a 600 Blandit or a 600/750 teapot. The result is a simpler mechanism that is lighter both in the mass of the parts and the action to the rider. Why Suzuki did not fit this as standard to the 1100s and 1200s beats me.

Big 10-4. I've been known to keep most anything on the table. I'll see how things progress, however I'm so damned in love with the pull on this clutch (as I remember). And fluid just feels juicy!

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  • 1 year later...

The 600 / 750 teapot cover works too. The 750 teapot cable has a 90 degree bend at the lever and works best with clip-ons; for flat bars use the 600 Blandit cable. No need to faff about with different pushrods. It's easier to replace the adjuster screw in the cover with a longer one if needed :).

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18 hours ago, Dezza said:

The 600 / 750 teapot cover works too. The 750 teapot cable has a 90 degree bend at the lever and works best with clip-ons; for flat bars use the 600 Blandit cable. No need to faff about with different pushrods. It's easier to replace the adjuster screw in the cover with a longer one if needed :).

I had too swap the pushrod on mine as I couldn't get enough play on the worm drive adjustment screw. 

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