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GSX750ES REVS SUPER HIGH AVTER INSTALLING CARBS


SATANSAM

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32 minutes ago, TonyGee said:

sorry Sam, the pickup plate that lives under the right engine cover (where you used to find points in the old days). they send a pulse upto the CDI. :tu

Ah gotcha! Yep, must try that thanx Tony. I've got my original motor out an fitting in the new one tomorrow, I'll start it with all original electrics just to discard any bad CDI, cables, coils etc...(I tested them with tester anyway according to manual specs). Man, the new motor sounds good, with no noises...They haven't even opened the cylinder head cover to adjust valve clearance in 24000kms. 

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1 hour ago, SATANSAM said:

Ah gotcha! Yep, must try that thanx Tony. I've got my original motor out an fitting in the new one tomorrow, I'll start it with all original electrics just to discard any bad CDI, cables, coils etc...(I tested them with tester anyway according to manual specs). Man, the new motor sounds good, with no noises...They haven't even opened the cylinder head cover to adjust valve clearance in 24000kms. 

fingers crossed for you ;)

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OK, there's something I'm doing wrong for sure.

1. New suzuki idled perfecty with my carbs on, and no air box.

2. Swapped motor into my frame with my carbs and my electrics = INCORRECT IDLE , hanging(Air box on).

3. Changed all ignition system (CDI, Regulator, Ign. COils, sparks) rom bike to bike  with it's cables and still incorrect (didn't touch anything on the carbs a,d the vacuum line is tappered).

Man, there's something I'm missing, something stupid, like me. Dammit.

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Could the frame be slightly out of line such that when you torque up the engine mounts it is putting flex on the motor somehow, and this is somehow introducing an air leak?? I guess you could try loosening all the engine mounts (but keep them in place obviously), run the bike and see if it is better. If it is then start tightening up the mounts and see what happens?

Good luck!

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13 minutes ago, Shakey225 said:

Could the frame be slightly out of line such that when you torque up the engine mounts it is putting flex on the motor somehow, and this is somehow introducing an air leak?? I guess you could try loosening all the engine mounts (but keep them in place obviously), run the bike and see if it is better. If it is then start tightening up the mounts and see what happens?

Good luck!

Fuck - that is so far 'out of left field' for a diagnosis i'd be worried if it were so! The carbs are rubber mounted back and front and so isolated from any frame flex and if the engine was flexing enough to cause a leak at the head / carb junction then the crank would bind long before ! Back to head scratching!

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Man, it's so misterious the only thing I'm sure is that I'm doing something wrong and that it's super simple...Like connecting both ignition cables wrong way round, I've pretty sure I've swapped both postitives and both negatives in all ways possible (never poositive in a negative of course) It's the only think about...The answer will be simple....BUT WHERE? 

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I might of been 8 fckn months stuck in the garage by just connecting the wrong cables....Ignition coils have a + and a - on each pole...I connect Orange cables on +, and coincides with the elec. diagram...But might be wrong..I'm going to swap everything and see if it explodes.

InkedElectrix_page-0001_LI.jpg

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1 hour ago, SATANSAM said:

I might of been 8 fckn months stuck in the garage by just connecting the wrong cables....Ignition coils have a + and a - on each pole...I connect Orange cables on +, and coincides with the elec. diagram...But might be wrong..I'm going to swap everything and see if it explodes.

So the nurdy types and anal retentives would say but look at Dyna coils through the ages, no + or - on them and i've connected loads and never worried what goes where - It makes 2/10th difference to FA!

Edited by Gixer1460
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Hahahah man, I nearly burnt the bike when I solved it...The only thing I didn't change was the THROTTLE CABLE 'cause it was practically new, the carbs snapped back well with it installed, blablabla...So I said fukit, it's the only thing left even tho it looks perfect, and changed the whole right handlebar switch from the bike that just bought for 450€, installed everything and BOOM! SOLVED. So yes, the most stupid thing...The other cable was fine except for the carb end that was a bit deformed on the lower part if it and maybe beginning of the cable too bent by some reason, maybe from when a friend was trying to pullem out when the bike 1st failed 8 bloody months ago (2 fried alternator yellow cables + rust in the carbs was the reason). It snapped closed with the old cable but looks like eventualy refference carb 3  didn't close fully staying a tiny bit open and I was trying to balance all carbs to the failing-open 3 refference carb...Basically a sticking cable like most of you explained.

Anyway, I've learned a lot and now I see things are more simple, less thinking and start from the basic parts. Thanx too all of you guys, I'm ready for all the mockery (I deserve it)...But in my deffense I must say that now I've got a bar in the garage with a fridge full of beer.

THANX.

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