PanzerWomble Posted June 22, 2021 Share Posted June 22, 2021 23 minutes ago, TonyGee said: the airbox side isn't the source of your problem, an engine will idle and rev fine without an airbox fitted, it just won't ride very well. .............And it'll probably still be running too rich......most likely on the pilot circuit ............although it might be a sticky throttle cable in the end I fear . 1 Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted June 23, 2021 Author Share Posted June 23, 2021 9 hours ago, PanzerWomble said: .............And it'll probably still be running too rich......most likely on the pilot circuit ............although it might be a sticky throttle cable in the end I fear . I WISH...Cable has slang, butterflies snap closed...But I'll make a new cable anyway. On thing I found out riding is the following: - When I stop at a traffic light 4 example, if I have the idle screw without touching throttle shaft the bike idles down and eventually dies..If I screw it in just a bit more than touching she revs up to about 1800rpm. Could it be that the needle slides rise up by some reason? Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted June 23, 2021 Author Share Posted June 23, 2021 On 6/18/2021 at 6:51 PM, PanzerWomble said: Huh I might have missed it but when your balancing the carbs and you rev the bike the movement of the guages doesn't tell you anything either ? I can get all gauges with the same readings but goes up to about 2200rpm, it can only idle more or less when unbalanced but of course, when throttle blimped it returns down very slowly, VERY. Quote Link to comment
PanzerWomble Posted June 23, 2021 Share Posted June 23, 2021 (edited) 2 hours ago, SATANSAM said: I WISH...Cable has slang, butterflies snap closed...But I'll make a new cable anyway. On thing I found out riding is the following: - When I stop at a traffic light 4 example, if I have the idle screw without touching throttle shaft the bike idles down and eventually dies..If I screw it in just a bit more than touching she revs up to about 1800rpm. Could it be that the needle slides rise up by some reason? It's idling high because there is too much petrol getting in the motor , either on one or all four of the cylinders. This is the problem , it's not air leaks or CDI units or even buggered plugs although all of those will not help with running. You have the correct carbs for the bike ? ID 31310 - 32mm Mikunins. You've cleaned these till they are blue in the face -check ok ? You're 100% certain you have reassembled them correctly ? * Plenty of slack and well lubed throttle and choke cable - check ok ? Cables not getting trapped for any reason ? Tried physically pushing the butterfly mechanism shut whilst it is running ? Pilot screws all same and set - not sure why you have them at 1.5, should be 2.25 but possible someone has over jetted it ? Pilot jet should be 40 main jet 120. Choke mechanisms all retracting nicely into the bodies ? All slides move up and down easily in the carb bodies , not warped or slightly bent needles holding them up slightly ?- If you have an air line you can check the movement of the slides by feeding air into the upper passages to make them move up , and then observe the fall . They should all be the same , which will also be shown on the gauges you are using for synching. Identify if it is one cyl or all of them - Are all four pipes getting the same amount of hot , remove a lead from each cyclinder in turn to see if there is a one that makes a difference. How does it idle under load, if you let out the clutch in first with the brake on is the bike fighting you or does it settled down to a lower RPM easily ? Again one cytl or the bank of 4 ? Finally when balancing the correct sequence , it's middle - balance 2/3 .....left balance 1/2 .....right balance 3/4 . In No 3 is running the best then balancing correclty maybe the issue . *Have you got the proper workshop manual ? If not I can share it with you . Edited June 23, 2021 by PanzerWomble 1 Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted June 23, 2021 Author Share Posted June 23, 2021 5 hours ago, PanzerWomble said: It's idling high because there is too much petrol getting in the motor , either on one or all four of the cylinders. This is the problem , it's not air leaks or CDI units or even buggered plugs although all of those will not help with running. You have the correct carbs for the bike ? ID 31310 - 32mm Mikunins. - CORRECT You've cleaned these till they are blue in the face -check ok ? - CORRECT You're 100% certain you have reassembled them correctly ? * - CORRECT, USING GSX750E/ES MANUAL Plenty of slack and well lubed throttle and choke cable - check ok ? - CORRECT Cables not getting trapped for any reason ? - CORRECT Tried physically pushing the butterfly mechanism shut whilst it is running ? - YES AND IT LOWERES DOWN BUT GETS OUT OF SYNC Pilot screws all same and set - not sure why you have them at 1.5, should be 2.25 but possible someone has over jetted it ? Pilot jet should be 40 main jet 120. - PILOT IS 45 LIKE IN THE OTHER 3 SETS OF CARBS (TRIED 40 AND THE SAME BUT SPLUTTERING) AND MAIN ARE 117,5 Choke mechanisms all retracting nicely into the bodies ? - CORRECT All slides move up and down easily in the carb bodies , not warped or slightly bent needles holding them up slightly ?- If you have an air line you can check the movement of the slides by feeding air into the upper passages to make them move up , and then observe the fall . They should all be the same , which will also be shown on the gauges you are using for synching. - THANX!!! Identify if it is one cyl or all of them - Are all four pipes getting the same amount of hot , remove a lead from each cyclinder in turn to see if there is a one that makes a difference. — DONE, ALL THE SAME How does it idle under load, if you let out the clutch in first with the brake on is the bike fighting you or does it settled down to a lower RPM easily ? Again one cytl or the bank of 4 ? Finally when balancing the correct sequence , it's middle - balance 2/3 .....left balance 1/2 .....right balance 3/4 . In No 3 is running the best then balancing correclty maybe the issue . *Have you got the proper workshop manual ? If not I can share it with you . Thanx a lot man, bike stopped coming back home from work, bike is 1,5.turns and loox like it's drowned in petrol... Yep,. 5 hours ago, PanzerWomble said: Quote Link to comment
TonyGee Posted June 23, 2021 Share Posted June 23, 2021 carbs are generally balanced 1 to 2 then 3 to 4 and then 1&2 to 3&4 . dont know if them carbs are different ? Quote Link to comment
PanzerWomble Posted June 23, 2021 Share Posted June 23, 2021 1 hour ago, TonyGee said: carbs are generally balanced 1 to 2 then 3 to 4 and then 1&2 to 3&4 . dont know if them carbs are different ? Having just done the same job Emanual advises.......... Quote Link to comment
TonyGee Posted June 23, 2021 Share Posted June 23, 2021 yeah must be a different set up from later carbs 1 Quote Link to comment
PanzerWomble Posted June 23, 2021 Share Posted June 23, 2021 1 hour ago, SATANSAM said: Thanx a lot man, bike stopped coming back home from work, bike is 1,5.turns and loox like it's drowned in petrol... Yep,. Drowning in petrol ....running rich ......goddam it . If it were me I'd set the pilots back to 40 , and try 2 .25 out ( assuming pilot screws are ok at their ends as well ) as a base point . If it were spitting on 40 could be your air leak running a bit lean . Move the screws in and out till you get the highest sustainable idle then turn it back on the knob . I'd also be tempted to look at 120 mains but TBH they aint the problem for idling . Needles circlip set on middle position ( there are five) again they aint the problem for idling . If the carbs aren't being held open mechanically - trapped cables blah blah then it has to be the fueling....in which case back to standard as the only start point . Your exhaust doesn't look like it needs much more than std jects , and your running the airbox. No idea why Spanish bikes would be jetted different , Benidorm is about as much as sea level as you can get . 1 Quote Link to comment
PanzerWomble Posted June 23, 2021 Share Posted June 23, 2021 You should already have this but I'll stick it up for reference Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted June 23, 2021 Author Share Posted June 23, 2021 Thank U so much Panzer and Tony. Yes, I'll start from 0 with the blimming 40jets...I a real amateur but man...2hours waiting for the fckn tower, gotta mend this bitch. Beer time, thanx amigos. 1 Quote Link to comment
TonyGee Posted June 23, 2021 Share Posted June 23, 2021 I can't wait till the day your bike is sorted 2 Quote Link to comment
PanzerWomble Posted June 23, 2021 Share Posted June 23, 2021 10 minutes ago, TonyGee said: I can't wait till the day your bike is sorted Well there are other options .... 3 Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted June 23, 2021 Author Share Posted June 23, 2021 26 minutes ago, PanzerWomble said: Well there are other options .... ¿Can we upload videos here??? Quote Link to comment
RickLee Posted June 24, 2021 Share Posted June 24, 2021 (edited) Me again... I was inspecting my old air box and everything within it and realized that the foam gasket that the actual air filter sits on was deteriorated beyond bad. This original foam gasket seals the metal air filter framework to the bottom of the plastic air box. When these things deteriorate they fill the air box with tiny (and not so tiny) tar-like particles that would certainly get sucked into the carbs, making all of my hard work cleaning and rebuilding the carbs useless. I removed the tarry gasket, (it literally crumbled when I touched it) and thoroughly blew out lots and lots of debris, and am now thinking of ways to replace it. One being double sided gorilla glue tape because it needs an airtight seal. seriously this could potentially ruin your carbs. Jam a slide, block a jet. Whatever. Edited June 24, 2021 by RickLee Spelling Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted June 24, 2021 Author Share Posted June 24, 2021 3 hours ago, RickLee said: Me again... I was inspecting my old air box and everything within it and realized that the foam gasket that the actual air filter sits on was deteriorated beyond bad. This original foam gasket seals the metal air filter framework to the bottom of the plastic air box. When these things deteriorate they fill the air box with tiny (and not so tiny) tar-like particles that would certainly get sucked into the carbs, making all of my hard work cleaning and rebuilding the carbs useless. I removed the tarry gasket, (it literally crumbled when I touched it) and thoroughly blew out lots and lots of debris, and am now thinking of ways to replace it. One being double sided gorilla glue tape because it needs an airtight seal. seriously this could potentially ruin your carbs. Jam a slide, block a jet. Whatever. Yep, but the foam is new too, everything spotless... I bought all 4 airbox boots in case one ofem wasn't sealing properly, having different amount of air into that one carb making the balancing impossible... We'll see anyway.... Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted July 1, 2021 Author Share Posted July 1, 2021 Going to see an exactly the same bike as mine 100km from here for 450€ (400 pounds aprox). Motor has 24.000kms, carbs with new kits...Worth a look! 1 Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted July 4, 2021 Author Share Posted July 4, 2021 Got it! Really looks like it's done 24000kms, and the bike only had 1 MOT done in 1998,after that it sat in a garage till today. Not bad for 450bux 1 Quote Link to comment
TonyGee Posted July 4, 2021 Share Posted July 4, 2021 I hope this one rev's as it should 1 Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted July 5, 2021 Author Share Posted July 5, 2021 7 hours ago, TonyGee said: I hope this one rev's as it should Hope so, I'm putting these carbs in MY motor 1st anyway to make sure it isn't the carbs, AGAIN! 1 Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted July 5, 2021 Author Share Posted July 5, 2021 So, I put my set of carbs in the new motor and idles absolutely perfect, without airbox. What the hell went wrong in my motor? Something electric having to do with the 3 yellow wires generator that fried touching the motor? Maybe harmed the ignition timing? No idea... But my carbs work perfectly with the new motor. 1 Quote Link to comment
TonyGee Posted July 5, 2021 Share Posted July 5, 2021 might be worth swopping the ignition system off the new bike and trying it on the problem bike, if it runs good then the problem is electrical and you engine is good. 1 Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted July 5, 2021 Author Share Posted July 5, 2021 3 minutes ago, TonyGee said: might be worth swopping the ignition system off the new bike and trying it on the problem bike, if it runs good then the problem is electrical and you engine is good. Sounds good, thanx To ny, Is it a lot of work? Never done that! But man, sounds something like that.... Quote Link to comment
TonyGee Posted July 5, 2021 Share Posted July 5, 2021 i would swap the pulse coils first and the CDI. 1 Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted July 6, 2021 Author Share Posted July 6, 2021 7 hours ago, TonyGee said: i would swap the pulse coils first and the CDI. Pulse coils, do you mean ignition coils? Because I've swapped ign. Coils, CDI and regulator with no changes Quote Link to comment
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