SATANSAM Posted February 11, 2021 Author Share Posted February 11, 2021 3 hours ago, Captain Chaos said: tough wank but I came hahaha man, iron stomach Quote Link to comment
Zipoy Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 Mine revved its nuts off after a minor rebuild, I'd put the throttle cable in the wrong hole on the throttle sleeve, so it was holding them open Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted February 16, 2021 Author Share Posted February 16, 2021 4 hours ago, Zipoy said: Mine revved its nuts off after a minor rebuild, I'd put the throttle cable in the wrong hole on the throttle sleeve, so it was holding them open Thanx Zip, but the cable is hanging. Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted February 16, 2021 Author Share Posted February 16, 2021 Well, I've made new screws for the butterflies, the genuine are blimming expensive here, so bought good marine ones and sized them. Bough all new Orings for all the carbs, everything through the new US cleaner.... Beer time. 2 Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted February 17, 2021 Author Share Posted February 17, 2021 1st one complete. No light across the butterfly when closed (and without the needle slide inside). 1 Quote Link to comment
TonyGee Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 bloody hell they'll be like a brand new set when you are finished !!!! hope it all works out 1 Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted February 17, 2021 Author Share Posted February 17, 2021 1 hour ago, TonyGee said: bloody hell they'll be like a brand new set when you are finished !!!! hope it all works out Thanx Tony! Hope so... It wouldn't be possible without all of you guys help Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted February 18, 2021 Author Share Posted February 18, 2021 How the hell can I get that pin out to disassemble carb 2?! Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 Its a 'roll pin' so use a suitably sized pin punch or at a push, a nail with the point removed and end flattened. Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted February 18, 2021 Author Share Posted February 18, 2021 41 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said: Its a 'roll pin' so use a suitably sized pin punch or at a push, a nail with the point removed and end flattened. Off and on. Thanx Gix! Beer time. Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 Putting choke on and.....Let's see what happens! Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 Thanx, but ni luck, again, and carbs are spotless... Now, there's one thing I've just seen, and it's that carb 1 is dripping fuel out of air box boot. Mix screws open 1, 5 turns to start with...I'll thy the mix and balancing tomorrow, we'll see. Cheerzzzzz Quote Link to comment
Jaydee Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 34 minutes ago, SATANSAM said: carb 1 is dripping fuel out of air box boot Getting a bad seal on that float needle. Replace the needle if there's no debris holding it open. 1 Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 17 minutes ago, Jaydee said: Getting a bad seal on that float needle. Replace the needle if there's no debris holding it open. All new seals and spotless jets and carbs...This is crazy... Quote Link to comment
Zipoy Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Punctured float? 1 Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 5 minutes ago, Zipoy said: Punctured float? No, they're perfect....I still doubt about an electrical problem, or...Bah, no idea.... Quote Link to comment
TonyGee Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 if their is fuel leaking the float valve isn't seating properly. if its a new valve give the carb a tap with a rubber hammer, it might be just stuck. 1 Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted February 22, 2021 Author Share Posted February 22, 2021 10 hours ago, TonyGee said: if their is fuel leaking the float valve isn't seating properly. if its a new valve give the carb a tap with a rubber hammer, it might be just stuck. Yep I'll do that this afternoon...If there's no good result, I'll get them out AGAIN to re-re-re-re-check height, seat seals were tested, blowing individually tapping the fuel hose holes, and the seat, tested the seat with with float needle in pouring a bit of fuel in, no leak at all. I'll have to play deeply with the mixture to start with...Thanx Tony. Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted February 25, 2021 Author Share Posted February 25, 2021 Well, I'm back to the ORIGINAL carbs that started the problem haha (I'm the problem, for sure). All Orings new, leveled floats, new needle valve sealings and needles, correct 22,40mm bowl hight (some 22,50mm maybe), all jets re-re-re-cleaned with solvent + US cleaner, all carbs cleaned individually with solvent and UScleaner too, diaphragms perfect, needles perfect and springs inside slide, slides polished and fall back down well "knock"..."SPANK!" ...All carbs mounted and aligned, starter all mounted correct... Now, Iv'e been comparing GS750E manual (1983) and the GSX750ES Manual (My bike). I was following the 1983 one because it was clearer BUT didn't bring the preset 2-1/4 turns backwards from gently seated in it. My manual differes a bit, like in Main jet size (my bike came with #117,5 instead of #120 and all 3 sets of carbs come with 117,5 anyway, all from this manual)....Needle jet on mine is Y7 (CORRECT)....well I won't keep on...The bike ran like hell before all this with #117,5 / #45 pilot (they call it starter jet??? ) and the needles I had...I'm putting them all on (All air jets are same size 790) I'm going to leave them original AND DO THE 2-1/4 TURN BACKWARDS + PROPER BENCH SYNC before mounting them....It's the very last thing I can think about...Because I think I shouldn't change jets and stuff when it ran like hell before...Now, if this is the issue(HOPE SO)...I'M GONNA GO OUT JOGGING NAKED CAUSE IT'S WHAT I DESERVE, A KICK IN THE BALLS. Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted March 3, 2021 Author Share Posted March 3, 2021 Hi again folx, 1 question...ADVANCED IGNITION TIMING? Could that have to do with hanging idle? Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted March 3, 2021 Share Posted March 3, 2021 Those models, of that era, had pretty much non adjustable ignition so unless its been modified, what it came with is what you get! Ign. timing at idle will have a small effect but unlikely to cause your problems. 1 Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted March 3, 2021 Author Share Posted March 3, 2021 27 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said: Those models, of that era, had pretty much non adjustable ignition so unless its been modified, what it came with is what you get! Ign. timing at idle will have a small effect but unlikely to cause your problems. Thanx Gix Quote Link to comment
TonyGee Posted March 3, 2021 Share Posted March 3, 2021 have you had the mixture screws out ? they have very small O rings on them, they can split or not get refitted in the past, some people put them on the wrong side of the washer !!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
SATANSAM Posted March 3, 2021 Author Share Posted March 3, 2021 2 minutes ago, TonyGee said: have you had the mixture screws out ? they have very small O rings on them, they can split or not get refitted in the past, some people put them on the wrong side of the washer !!!!! Thanx Tony, they are all correctly installed (Down to top): ORING/WASHER/SPRING. All tiny orings look in good shape...I'm starting to thing that everything has to do with the pilot screw or mix screw...Bench sync and then start the bike with pilot screws 2 turns out, when warm, play to get the bike idling down closing 1/8 turn each carb and wait...Well, something like that....when in idle, sync carbs with balancer...OK, beer time. Quote Link to comment
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