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GSX750ES REVS SUPER HIGH AVTER INSTALLING CARBS


SATANSAM

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21 minutes ago, TonyGee said:

as your oil level gone up ? stick your nose in the oil filler cap and see if it has a strong smell of fuel, if it does it needs changing.  maybe a fresh air filter wouldn't hurt either. 

It has gone up! And I think it does smell of petrol, I've been surrounded by solvents and my nose is a bit confused... But yes, oil level has deffenitly gone up, thanx Tony! 

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Take carb bank off and drain. Securely fix the complete bank on the bench so you can see all round including underneath (a retort stand or 2 makes this easy,  remember them from school chemistry lessons?). It helps to put the whole lot on a tray to catch any fuel. Then attach a small remote fuel supply and watch, carefully. You will be able to pin-point where your leak is coming from. If it's not obvious, then place individual small plastic containers under each float bowl and leave for a while.

It is true that blockages are most likely in the main carb body so soak overnight in a nasty solvent, then ultra-sonic. Often just the ultra-sonic won't work on its own.

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20 hours ago, TonyGee said:

reminds me of my brother in law, many years ago he put 2 brake callipers in a bucket of caustic soda over night, you can guess what happened :(

Cellulose thinners mixed with acetone will act simply as a solvent to dissolve varnished fuel. It will not react with the aluminium but will dissolve rubber/plastic. Caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) and vinegar (acetic acid) have an alkaline and acid respectively as their active ingredients and will react with aluminium with predictably disastrous results if left for too long. Both chemicals have their place in restoring corroded parts but it helps to have a basic understanding of the chemistry:).

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On 2/6/2021 at 2:45 PM, Dezza said:

Take carb bank off and drain. Securely fix the complete bank on the bench so you can see all round including underneath (a retort stand or 2 makes this easy,  remember them from school chemistry lessons?). It helps to put the whole lot on a tray to catch any fuel. Then attach a small remote fuel supply and watch, carefully. You will be able to pin-point where your leak is coming from. If it's not obvious, then place individual small plastic containers under each float bowl and leave for a while.

It is true that blockages are most likely in the main carb body so soak overnight in a nasty solvent, then ultra-sonic. Often just the ultra-sonic won't work on its own.

Yes, I'm going to do that and inspect for small leaks. Meanwhile the motor oil is out and the oil filter, leaving it open the whole day. It did smell of petrol and had a lighter color. I'll put a new oil filter and oil and start, see what happens! Thanx folx, U R really helping and what a patience!!! 

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The other 3rd set of carbs I've got. Pre stuffed with all types of cleaners like contact cleaner, intake, degreaser... Now each carb 8min on each side as it doesn't totally fit in the ultrasonic, filling motor with new oil, new oil filter and clean air filter...On thing, again, the bike shouldn't idle-hang by a faulty rectifier, Right? 

IMG_20210209_204253.jpg

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3 hours ago, SATANSAM said:

The other 3rd set of carbs I've got. Pre stuffed with all types of cleaners like contact cleaner, intake, degreaser... Now each carb 8min on each side as it doesn't totally fit in the ultrasonic, filling motor with new oil, new oil filter and clean air filter...On thing, again, the bike shouldn't idle-hang by a faulty rectifier, Right? 

IMG_20210209_204253.jpg

What is the contraption that the carb body is lying in? It does not look like an US cleaner to me, more like a small chip fryer bought from Lidls. Also, even with all the right gear the carb bodies will never get properly free of all cack unless all parts are stripped out first. It does not look like this has been done as even the choke plunger hasn't been removed from the carb in the pic. A small US cleaner is not that expensive but even that isn't going to work unless the carbs are completely stripped and dipped first.

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4 hours ago, Dezza said:

What is the contraption that the carb body is lying in? It does not look like an US cleaner to me, more like a small chip fryer bought from Lidls. Also, even with all the right gear the carb bodies will never get properly free of all cack unless all parts are stripped out first. It does not look like this has been done as even the choke plunger hasn't been removed from the carb in the pic. A small US cleaner is not that expensive but even that isn't going to work unless the carbs are completely stripped and dipped first.

Yes it is a crappy lidl fryer... Thought it would do something. Now question, if I soak the carbs in white vinegar with water and bicarbonate for example, it's what I've got, WOULD IT RUIN THE PLASTICS OF THE THROTTHE LEVERS? 

IMG-20210210-WA0007.jpeg

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No, but it will damage the aluminium alloy if left for too long so if you are going to use acids such as vinegar, be very careful. If you leave it too long it will also strip the zinc plating off of any zinc plated steel parts. Personally, I would only resort to acids on carb bits in extreme circumstances; the last time I used it I used wheel cleaner to clear the cold start drillings from a couple of float bowls by injecting it directly with a syringe into the holes.

Edited by Dezza
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4 hours ago, SATANSAM said:

 Now question, if I soak the carbs in white vinegar with water and bicarbonate for example, it's what I've got, 

Firstly don't mix vinegar, water and sodium bicarbonate - it won't do anything as it will be about as aggressive as clean water! The bicarb neutralises the vinegar acid! And sodium bicarbonate isn't caustic enough to be any good! If you want decent acid - get some muriatic (brick acid from a Builders Merchant) its Hydrochloric acid, can be diluted with water and washed away with clean water but it really goes aggressive on metals! Likewise Caustic Soda (sodium hydroxide) is very caustic and will attack metals with a vengeance! Don't sniff the fumes as your lungs won't thank you!

Personally a good Ultrasonic blast with a heated, reasonably good solvent / cleaner usually shifts most crap - if you haven't a professional sized unit then multiple sessions will be required - the only cost is time!

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17 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

Firstly don't mix vinegar, water and sodium bicarbonate - it won't do anything as it will be about as aggressive as clean water! The bicarb neutralises the vinegar acid! And sodium bicarbonate isn't caustic enough to be any good! If you want decent acid - get some muriatic (brick acid from a Builders Merchant) its Hydrochloric acid, can be diluted with water and washed away with clean water but it really goes aggressive on metals! Likewise Caustic Soda (sodium hydroxide) is very caustic and will attack metals with a vengeance! Don't sniff the fumes as your lungs won't thank you!

Personally a good Ultrasonic blast with a heated, reasonably good solvent / cleaner usually shifts most crap - if you haven't a professional sized unit then multiple sessions will be required - the only cost is time!

Well all screws, jets and carbs are shiny after 4 hours in 50% water and 50% white cleaning vinegar with about 6 spoons full of bicarbonate stuff, I'm leaveing it overnight, I'll take the risk. And you are right, I've gifted that LIDL fryer to a hot girl friend of mine, she was very happy! And I found a 3 L decent US cleaner for 50 bux...Everything seems to get together....EXCEPT THE F**** BIKE...Let's see how the dinner ends up with my friend. the weekend. And thanx far all the chemical tips, but it's too much info for my single neuron :v

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Someone is gonna kick me out of the forum, but loox like there's a small air leak between carbs 2 and 3, round the throttle lever...I'm talking about the carbs I've got on the bike of course (the ones I've re-cleaned and done everything till now). Is it difficult to strip out the butterflies with those 2 screws that break?

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