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gsx1100 engines


TonyGee

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10 hours ago, TonyGee said:

agree John, :tu   yeah one of the things i did on the 750 was sort out the bodged wiring and do away with the light loop, its still running an original oem R/R  and it still charges perfect (for now)  the old motors where over engineered which makes them last, the engine in mine is so quiet for a 40 year old not like my 1200 bandit engine.  

interesting you make that point.  It is what I have noticed since I fired up my new project recently.  I was expecting more mechanical noise .  

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owned 5 efe’s during my life and 3 of them suffered spun crank bearings.....stator side on 2 of them and the other was in the middle ....which requires crank disassembly then balancing..... unlike just swapping out some shells like the oil boiler . the clutch basket develops a rattle over time and the big center nut needs to be upgraded....

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6 hours ago, TonyGee said:

maybe your clutch need looking at ? 

I likely have the best tuner/mechanic in the country he takes my bikes for vigorous test rides when I leave them with him for tuning. If there was a serious issue with the clutch he would've mentioned it along with the other deficiencies he makes note of.

I do intend to install a HD clutch in a year or two when I go with a big bore.

Edited by RGSX
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30 minutes ago, Blower1 said:

Which working a lot better when get the clutch steel discs level grinded. Even the new discs are not evenly thick.

Really not necessary for a 'run of the mill' use bike! The steels are all punched from the same thickness steel at the factory and the back edges may be a little raised but its not an issue - it's generally why some people say steels have to go in this way or that to work smoothly - in my experience, it's bollux as if it's smooth one way, it'll drag the other ! If you want a good clutch - use good up to spec springs and measure the stack height when its working good and stick to that height. Adjust the ht. with old plates and always check for warped / flat steels - any blue spots on a steel = bin it as its warped. Steels can come out blue / black all over, a bit of Scotchbrite and brake cleaner and they are good to go. Waaaay off topic but useful info for memory file LOL!

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12 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

Well think again - 1985 GS1150 EFE - 100.44hp @ crank. GSXR 1127 - 125-128hp @ rear wheel so happily more at the crank.

Nonsense - Suzukis' claim for the efe was 120+. I have a Pefrormance Bikes (1988) piece stating a stock 1100E has 112 at the back wheel. At that time they used to test their bikes on  the old LeDar dyno so it's not a case of 'put it on the dyno for the highest figures:) I also found a table showing the  claim for stock power for an 1100 slabby (more powerful than a B12) is similar but about 100 at the back wheel. I accept an 1100 slingshot is more but the point made that an oilcooled motor is 30 hp up on an aircooled motor does not hold here.1613128821_Scan1.thumb.jpeg.ec54bb6ef6a2af54ec57c09af7ccbf44.jpegScan.thumb.jpeg.95bf711c3f322d2c182411b383b6846e.jpeg

Edited by Dezza
Evidence to support claim
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.... never paid any mind to articles and stats .... just real world tests that applied to my bike and how it perfomed against others at the time I rode them ....like a twat . I enjoyed my efe’s and all the times I had to push start them when the starter clutch bolts sheared.... or cleaning out the shattered clutch basket bits from the motor after it exploded from a 5 gear burnout....or the indestructable roller bearing crank that on occaision ...somehow seemed to shag a bearing after a top gear wot run ..... all little issues that are never put in articles . As far as oil cooled motors go ....again .... based on how they performed to the way I rode them at the time.... deffinately out performed the mighty efe in abuse , endurance and power .... but they too had their little issues  .... but all I can think of is the 2nd gear failures ..... broken timing chains .... or spitting a rod through the cases ... but only after it’s been sitting on the rev limiter gor 5 minutes .

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