Cunnerz77 Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 (edited) Hello guys, I'm hoping for some advice regarding the ride height on my 92 GSXR 1100 please. Here's the situation: 1. The bike has a 93 1100 swingarm fitted (the banana type) - these have a sort of dog bone assembly in which they are both welded to a cross bar at the top. So one option is to cut those off and weld shorter bones on....but thats kinda messy 2. The top shock mount on the frame is welded and not adjustable like it is on the 750 - is there an adapter that works with the 1100 frame? 3. My shock (Nitron with Ktech spring) isnt height adjustable (apart from the pre-load)...kinda stuffed there. The reason I ask is because it was very scrapey at the track and apart from wearing a hole through my tray, its also catching the main part of the lower fairing. The bike actually sits level at the moment so the next question is this: 4. My clip ons are on top of the yoke - has anyone got them under the top yoke on theirs? If I just eye it up it looks like it might go, but will be really close to the fairing. But if I can make that work I could raise the whole thing 20mm or so, which I think is all it needs. Any help and advice appreciated. Many thanks! Edited October 10, 2020 by Cunnerz77 Quote Link to comment
dupersunc Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 Shorten the dog bones. It's the most effective way and has little effect on the rest of the system. Your set up is a little awkward but but get some new bone water jet cut 10mm shorter and get a space machine up to go between them. Dont need to be welded together. At the front can you fit the 750 fairing bracket adaptor top fairing to clear the handlebars. More ride height definetly helps with handling. 180/60 rear works well too. Quote Link to comment
Cunnerz77 Posted October 10, 2020 Author Share Posted October 10, 2020 7 minutes ago, dupersunc said: Shorten the dog bones. It's the most effective way and has little effect on the rest of the system. Your set up is a little awkward but but get some new bone water jet cut 10mm shorter and get a space machine up to go between them. Dont need to be welded together. At the front can you fit the 750 fairing bracket adaptor top fairing to clear the handlebars. More ride height definetly helps with handling. 180/60 rear works well too. Brilliant thanks very much! Understood on the dog bones and thats great that they dont need to be welded. Do you know if they are particular type of steel or would regular cold rolled plate be OK? On the 750 - I didnt quite understand this. So I need a 750 nose, and an adapter to make it work with the rest of the 1100 fairing? Thanks again. Very helpful. Quote Link to comment
dupersunc Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 4 minutes ago, Cunnerz77 said: Brilliant thanks very much! Understood on the dog bones and thats great that they dont need to be welded. Do you know if they are particular type of steel or would regular cold rolled plate be OK? On the 750 - I didnt quite understand this. So I need a 750 nose, and an adapter to make it work with the rest of the 1100 fairing? Thanks again. Very helpful. 6mm cold rolled steel will be fine. The m model gsxr 750 had an adaptor between frame and fairing bracket. I assume this is so they can use the fair bracket on the 1100 and 750. The whole top fairing and side panels are different between the 1100 and 750 to allow for the different handlebar positions. Quote Link to comment
Cunnerz77 Posted October 10, 2020 Author Share Posted October 10, 2020 5 minutes ago, dupersunc said: 6mm cold rolled steel will be fine. The m model gsxr 750 had an adaptor between frame and fairing bracket. I assume this is so they can use the fair bracket on the 1100 and 750. The whole top fairing and side panels are different between the 1100 and 750 to allow for the different handlebar positions. Gotcha, thanks. Just spent a fortune on fairings and paint etc so I really should have asked this question before! One more question sir - If I raise the back by 10mm on the dog bones, and leave the front at the same height....I assume it would then be overly twitchy? What sort of angle do you winged hammers run on your bikes? The bottom of my frame is at this moment completely level. Quote Link to comment
dupersunc Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 (edited) 21 minutes ago, Cunnerz77 said: Gotcha, thanks. Just spent a fortune on fairings and paint etc so I really should have asked this question before! One more question sir - If I raise the back by 10mm on the dog bones, and leave the front at the same height....I assume it would then be overly twitchy? What sort of angle do you winged hammers run on your bikes? The bottom of my frame is at this moment completely level. My 750m with 1127 motor had the rear jacked up 30mm. WP rear shock, 180/60 rear tyre. Front was stock but with 9.5 springs. Ran no steering damper, never felt the need. Certainly wasn't twitchy. Edited October 10, 2020 by dupersunc 1 Quote Link to comment
Cunnerz77 Posted October 10, 2020 Author Share Posted October 10, 2020 30 minutes ago, dupersunc said: My 750m with 1127 motor had the rear jacked up 30mm. WP rear shock, 180/60 rear tyre. Front was stock but with 9.5 springs. Ran no steering damper, never felt the need. Certainly wasn't twitchy. Outstanding! Brilliant video. How much shorter were the dog bones to get 30mm higher? Or was that 30mm on the dog bones? Quote Link to comment
dupersunc Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 5 minutes ago, Cunnerz77 said: Outstanding! Brilliant video. How much shorter were the dog bones to get 30mm higher? Or was that 30mm on the dog bones? 10mm iirc on the dog bones. 1 Quote Link to comment
Cunnerz77 Posted October 10, 2020 Author Share Posted October 10, 2020 Just now, dupersunc said: 10mm iirc on the dog bones. Alright sweet, got a plan. Thanks for the help chap. 1 Quote Link to comment
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