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Remove "blind" bearing


Mouse

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Hi

Hoping someone can help with this, I need to remove (undamaged) the outer bearing races for tapered bearings from my GS750 headstock.

The problem is the races do not stick out into the headstock as you would expect so there is no lip to leaver or hit, I have been told they are called blind bearings.

I have found blind bearing pullers online but for the life of me i cannot see how they would work to remove the outer races, I think they are more for wheel bearings etc where you can only get to them on one side.

The reason i need the race out undamaged is because i am trying to fit a bandit 600 stem into the gs headstock and i need accurate measurements of what is already fitted.

I know for example the top bearings should be interchangeable but for me that is not the case, so i  need to measure everything and go from there.

Thank you

   Mouse

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Hi Poldark, thank you for the link but at the moment i am trying to get the race out undamaged :)

3 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:

Everything slips off the lip of the bearing!

Ah but that's my problem, I don't have a lip for anything to grip onto, the outer race is about 1mm recesed into the frame neck, and by the looks of that tool it needs a lip to catch onto ???

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And so it does! I can’t see why Suzuki would put a bearing in, with no means of getting it out undamaged.  If there’s definitely no lip, weld a ring around the race, and it’ll shrink. To avoid the same problem in the future, get your Dremel and grind a couple or slots (or three) equidistant around the inside of the neck. This’ll enable you to get a small drift/screwdriver around the outer, to knock it oot! 

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Lots and lots of heat around the head stock area where the bearing is and it will drop out. Heat the head stock not the bearing.

If you don't mind damaging your frame paint work.

If you have not got a oxyacetylene gear get yourself a MAP pro has torch (Eblag item number 233422629230. ) I got mine from folkestonefixings FFX they also do the gas and came very quick. I now think how I did things before with out it.

Edited by wraith
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I suspect there is a lip on your race and you cant see it, which the purpose of the tool Toni suggests. .   I cut through my race with a dremmel and small cut off wheel.  I cut it at about a 30 degree angle,  just cause you can't  get it in deep enough to cut 90 degree across the race.  I had seen others post up the method.   Just don't want to go too far through. Only took a couple minutes.  When you get all the way through they spring out.  Even if you nick beyond the old race into the head stock the new race will cover it. 

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The GS750 would have ball bearing headstock bearings originally, the taper roller bearing would be aftermarket and hence no way of removing except welding. If you are just after a measurement for the length of the stem then you can reinstall the GS750 stem and see how much is sticking out the top, then measure stem to where the bottom bearing seats onto the stem, subtract the stick out from the stem to bottom bearing length gets you your length. Don't know if this is any help.

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Well an update

19 hours ago, wraith said:

If you have not got a oxyacetylene gear get yourself a MAP pro has torch (Eblag item number 233422629230. )

I do have a small porta-pac set of oxy bottles but the torch is to small to heat much of an area, it's mainly fur burning off rust prior to welding car bodywork.

 

19 hours ago, wraith said:

I got mine from folkestonefixings FFX

Strangely enough they are about 5 mins from me but have no stock at the moment, but Toolstation had this 

 

20200905_161314.thumb.jpg.f9432bcea29262a8e7e3505472fe3ae4.jpg

                    And 10 mins later I had this :banana:

20200905_161526.thumb.jpg.e129ddabfe861fea82f427a61757b5a3.jpg

4 hours ago, Reinhoud said:

What needs to be measured?

If you want to replace it I asume you have a replacement already

I need the outer diameter of the lower outer race as i want to fit a bandit 600 stem, I know what the stem dia is but need the lower outer bearing size to order a bearing, hence why i didn't want to weld or cut it as this could lead to a measuring mistake, especially cutting as it could "spring" , Also some sites list the top and bottom bearings as the same internal size, but this is not correct, the top bearing is 25mm I/D but the bottom is 26mm I/D.

Thank for all your help

   Mouse.

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1 hour ago, Fazz711 said:

Why not remove bearing and then measure the ID of the frame? 

I also needed the height of the race and the thickness of it, i have two bearings both the same size inner and outer but the inner race's are not interchangeable and i do not have a way to measure the race in the frame, also now it is out i can sit in the warm and try to match things up as the bearing size's are part of a ongoing saga :)

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3 hours ago, Askamaskinservice said:

Ah well sorry but it don't, It gives the bearing sizes to convert but not how to take up the 15mm difference in stem length (Bandit is longer) , thought about a spacer under the bottom bearing but this would put the bearing on a tapered part of the stem an not on a straight part if this makes sense :).

3 hours ago, Reinhoud said:

You can make bushes, or turn of the pin. Be creative ;)

Oh I'm trying, the Bandit top yoke has a 4mm bigger hole and is about 10mm deeper so there is not enough thread for the bearing lock nut.

Am thinking that i might have to have the stem cut n shut or have a new one made but shorter, can't see why i am having all this trouble as other people seem to have done this before, but we all have to start somewhere. (y)

Edited by Mouse
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Cut & shut stem is perfectly ok if done by a competent welder. Cut it, turn a tight enough slug, chamfer both ends of the stem. Fit the assembly to the frame, and tap the top of the stem until you get the length you require.  MARK the stem before you give it to the welder, and explain what the marks are for. Dress the stem on completion. Done! 

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2 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:

Cut & shut stem is perfectly ok if done by a competent welder. Cut it, turn a tight enough slug, chamfer both ends of the stem. Fit the assembly to the frame, and tap the top of the stem until you get the length you require.  MARK the stem before you give it to the welder, and explain what the marks are for. Dress the stem on completion. Done! 

 

10 minutes ago, wraith said:

And make sure the welder jigs it up so it's still straight after welding ;)

Yes Fellas, this might be the way to go, mate of mine is a Fecking good welder, would get him to put stem into V blocks and get it plug welded as well, (belt n braces).

One last thing to try before i go this route as he is away for a few weeks, I recently bought a old slabbie for spares and it looks like the stem might be shorter so i will try this as a last resort, I know the forks are the same diameter so hopefully other bits are as well.  Wish me luck :tu

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