GSX1100 Clutch

[Ibbo]

My Clutch basket is getting worn, the plates have grooved it quite badly. I have filed it out to make it work, but it's not ideal. Plus there are the problems with the back plate and springs that need replacing. Not desperate, but they won't last forever.

I don't want to strip, and go to straight cut gears.

Hunting on the web I came across the Sigma slip clutch. It says it is set for higher power rating. Whilst this is interesting I would be more interested in lower spring rates for a standard motor to get the clutch lever easier to pull in.

Has anyone tried one? Or alternatively is there any way to fit a Gsxr clutch.

 

Mike

uzuki TSCC 1000/1100/Katana
All years. Five ramp, wet type. Designed for Hi Power applications incorporating additional plates and springs and a special heavy duty basket. Hard anodised in grey. Uses standard clutch plates and GSXR1000 K5 springs. Limited edition

£795 plus VAT (Ref: 090)

 

[Gixer1460]

Don't see how a 'back drive' clutch is going to solve your problem - nor would a 'lock-up' clutch ! Either could have lower spring pressure which 'could' induce slip (desirable when racing)  But they both rely on smooth operation of the fibres sliding within the basket. For that cost i'd buy a H/Duty billet basket and get it hard anodised - it'd probably be cheaper?

And no - GSXR steel baskets are smaller diameter than GSX backplates so won't be an easy transfer although if you come up with a fix the whole world will rejoice as it has been a problem for 40+ years! 

[Ibbo]

The heavy duty baskets I've seen advertised come with the straight cut gears.

Theres nothing I've seen to go with the std parts. I guess it would have to be a one off.

[Ibbo]

And no, I wouldn't be interested in the downshifting slider bit. I'm not so hard on the down shifts as that.

[Duckndive]

10 minutes ago, Ibbo said:

The heavy duty baskets I've seen advertised come with the straight cut gears.

Theres nothing I've seen to go with the std parts. I guess it would have to be a one off.

ape used to sell just the basket you can fit your own gear with a heavy duty back plate 

[Duckndive]

You can still buy a new basket 

Sit down 1st its £448.94   + VAT 

[Ibbo]

only £448. 

If I bought that and a tank I'd double the value of the bike.

I don't remember the clutch being so heavy when I had one originally.

[Ibbo]

Maybe the GS Zone have the answer?

 

Thanks for the nudge to AP.

 

http://gszone.biz/clutches.html

 

[no class]

..... your inner hub will also be notched  and possibly need to be replaced ..... as well as the nut .

[Ibbo]

The inner hub was indeed, so that was replaced last year with the steel centred one, and nut replaced with a stronger one.

Endless sometimes.

But the low and midrange of the motors. Lush.

[Ibbo]

So, I'm trying to sort out a new basket. Apparently theres a long and a short slot in the back plate for the springs.

Which is better, and what model has it.

Clutches. Didnt know they were so complicated.

Cheers.

[Duckndive]

7 minutes ago, Ibbo said:

So, I'm trying to sort out a new basket. Apparently theres a long and a short slot in the back plate for the springs.

Which is better, and what model has it.

Clutches. Didnt know they were so complicated.

Cheers.

Depends on what engine you have as the primary gear ratio is different on 1074cc and 1135cc engines hence the different springs / back plate combo 

 

 

[Ibbo]

Thanks, its a 1074, and has the chrome shiny end caps on the cams, so an early version i think.

is it better to use long slots with this, or stay with original?

They did say that i will need to drill out for the larger rivets as well.

[Duckndive]

32 minutes ago, Ibbo said:

Thanks, its a 1074, and has the chrome shiny end caps on the cams, so an early version i think.

is it better to use long slots with this, or stay with original?

They did say that i will need to drill out for the larger rivets as well.

you cannot mix and match..the gear and basket slots have to match up.....

 

[HUM]

hi

stock clutch

centre basket ( from Alu )

equalize the incoming grooves , but not too deep carefully , then the gears go in and out better again

use new metal plates + new pads

springs 

take 50% normal springs and 50% harder springs, place  them always alternating, one stock, one harder

this is good for Ur arm

I have app 115 HP in my GSX 1100E , I had slipped clutch at 7000+  with stock springs , now I made like obove  and it works, and good for my arm

 

Cheers

 

HUM

 

[bigyellowthing]

Are any of these fixes any good for riding in town?

My 81 1100 clutch gives up after a couple of minutes in traffic.

[Gixer1460]

9 hours ago, bigyellowthing said:

Are any of these fixes any good for riding in town?

My 81 1100 clutch gives up after a couple of minutes in traffic.

'Gives up' - how? Slips, grabs, stops working ? Any clutch, on any bike, of any power should cope with a few minutes of stop / start traffic (race bike / drag bike clutches excepted!)

[bigyellowthing]

Hi Gixer1460

The lever comes back to the bar. 

Replaced the clutch plates a while back but it made no appreciable difference.

I fitted an oil cooler and there was no improvement.

Have even tried different viscosity oils.

Any ideas?

 

[Gixer1460]

I'm puzzled as 'every' clutch i've ever used, the lever comes back to the bars when operated  - that is the point of maximum dis-engagement ? Regarding the things you've changed - clutch plates ....... aftermarket or OEM?, Oil cooler no bad thing if used in 'stop / start' traffic!, Oil viscosity used 10w/40 would be correct and either Mineral or Semi Synth - NEVER Fully Synth in older engines!

[Blubber]

Are both clutch levers stock and model specific? 

 

Maybe the travel on one or both ends is not correct for the clutch pack.

 

Some may have swapped these in favour of a shinier adjuster or such.

[bigyellowthing]

Sorry,

There is drive when the clutch lever is back to the bars.

The biting point moves quickly until there is no disengagement at all.

It is the only bike I have ever ridden that does this in the 35 years I've been riding with 3 years as an instructor.

[bigyellowthing]

The lever and the pivot are standard. I have tried moving the clutch actuator (on crankcase) on the splines in to he past but returned it all to standard specs.

[Gixer1460]

So it's dragging when it gets hot ie. you still get 'drive' with lever back to the bars? It's either adjustment, non OEM plates or notchy basket / hub. Oil could be a factor but that usually promotes slip not drag.

[bigyellowthing]

EBC plates with OEM steels.

Adjusted in the normal way.

Neutral easy to find until hot when virtually impossible.

Have been known to adjust at the handlebar several times in a day. Once cool returns to normal.

[Gixer1460]

EBC plates can be very 'hit or miss' - some sets work ok others slip / grab / stick / overheat! Only used them once myself in a race bike - didn't last the meeting so never used them again - always OEM even in stupidly powerful turbo bike! It's not just me either - lots have had problems with non OEM clutches.

Edited June 8, 2020 by Gixer1460