Suzuki Gs750 need help

[Franklin]

eqweqwe

Edited July 7, 2020 by Franklin

[Poldark]

Lay off the pry bar before you break something expensive, use a soft pine board if you need to pry.  Make sure those clamps are very loose.  Those rubber boots have been through many extreme Canadian winters; they are likely hard and dry, expect to replace.  Apply some heat to the boots with a hot air gun or an infrared heater, then try again.  Can you get to the screws holding the boots to the engine? Carbs and boots may have to come off together.  Finally, if none of the other methods work, you may have to cut the boots.  Work slowly and carefully so you don't damage other parts or hurt yourself.  

[Franklin]

qweqwe

Edited July 7, 2020 by Franklin

[Poldark]

Not to rub it in, but...this past Monday here in Virginia it was sunny and 70F.  I went for a ride, lots of bikes out. 

Shop heater right next to the bike might do it.  Your extreme weather makes y'all hard and tough, does the same to your rubber bike parts.

[Franklin]

eqweqwe

Edited July 7, 2020 by Franklin

[Guest]

On 1/26/2020 at 11:04 PM, Franklin said:

Thanks all! Steel frame not aluminum . Painted silver, my mistake., I've been told its a gs750e. I've attached a few pics in its current state at the moment. Luckily its aluminum frame because the exhaust pipe is pretty rusty. I still got to figure out the battery cables there. When i hooked up my new battery to it and turn the key i get the neutral light. The clutch lever is off the bike currently. I have a copy of a 83 gs750e manual. I also got the plastics belong to it as well. I'm hoping to see if it runs, then i can justify spending some time and cleaning it up. If it runs, i'd be up for some upgrades too. Its different seeing the synch carbs!

It could be the other two wires might be coming from after market reg rec. I had a Gurls blouse CB250n one on my GS 1000 and if remember correctly it had two wires from it going to plus and minus on battery and the other ones to alternator. So worth checking if it is after market one or is it  another reg rec from another bike . Others might know and how it is wired. The Gurls blouse ones on GS were much better quality than Suzie ones

[BigT]

3 hours ago, Franklin said:

I can get to some of the boots, but the middle ones probably not.  Yeah it’s cold here and I don’t know how long those carbs have been on that bike. I was really hoping it would fire up with getting spark back but no luck so many the carbs are fully gummed up. I don’t have a heat gun but you gave me a idea, maybe I’ll take my shop heater and position it close to the carbs.  Thanks. Will write back if I get anything figured out haha. I haven’t cleaned carbs before so this should be a good learning opportunity.

http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/

 

The link is for a trove of GS knowledge. There should be a factory service manual and see the tutorial for BS carbs. Since you're in CAN and can't get good dips, you can use an ultrasonic cleaner

[Franklin]

erqweqw

Edited July 7, 2020 by Franklin

[richyrich]

I never should have said in a jiffy ffs .    I'd lay off messing with carbs until you've done a compression test !  Soak loads of carb cleaner through them , fill up the float chambers with it .  Soak loads of silicone into the rubber manifolds , the joint with the carbs.  

[Franklin]

eqweqwe

Edited July 7, 2020 by Franklin

[Poldark]

Sometimes compression can improve if you start riding it.  After an engine has sat a long time, there could be deposits or rust spots on the valves or cylinder walls.  Rings could be stuck.  Sometimes riding around at operating temperature can get things to re-seat.  

When you said you primed the cylinders with fuel; did you spray starter fluid into the cylinders, or did you just pour gasoline into the cylinders?  I ask because a puddle of gasoline in cold cylinders, especially Canadian winter cold, will have difficulty firing.

[Captain Chaos]

check the valve clearances.

[Franklin]

qweeqe

Edited July 7, 2020 by Franklin

[Gixer1460]

Did you check the comp. pressure with throttle wide open? 80 odd psi is really low!

[richyrich]

That compression is probably why 8ts a hard starter , but as said above if it can be run up to temperature that might get the valves nd rings sealing better .   I'm surprised it's not popping and banging with the starter fluid though, are the plugs wet ?  almost as if it's not sparking or valves not opening  at the right time. 

 Are the clutch , neutral and Sidestrand switches at play on this bike. Are the coils definitely wired right, Lt and ht. Are timing marks lined up , correct number if cam chain links between them.  Has someone f@cked up the valve clearances years ago and that's why it was put away.  What does the kill switch and fuel line look like, is there some crazy simple shit somewhere.

(Does anyone know if it's possible to drop the cam chain off the crank and unwittingly reassemble it with timing out,  it shouldn't matter right ? As with no1 at tdc and with the cams set right , the crank has to be right , or could it be 180degrees out ?)

Find an oil cooled engine for it is an oft quoted aphorism round here, they're faster anyway ! 

[BigT]

adjust the valves. Nothing should be coming out the intakes

Simple screw and locknut adjustment.

Download a factory service manual from that link

[Franklin]

ewqe

Edited July 7, 2020 by Franklin

[Franklin]

eqweqwe

Edited July 7, 2020 by Franklin

[Gixer1460]

1 hour ago, Franklin said:

I’m going to get some carb rebuild kits ordered. Will cleaning the carbs work at all or is it most likely passed the point of cleaning? 

You won't know till you get in there for a look see - usually an ultrasonic bath does them / any carb a world of good!