Otatts Posted January 16, 2020 Share Posted January 16, 2020 Hey guys. I have a B12 loom and engine in my 88 750 and I’m getting ready to do the DOT head swap. question is can I use the 750 CDI with the bandit loom?? I know a few pins are in different positions but I’m wondering what to do about the neutral switch wires as the 750 CDI doesn’t have pins for that. i have the 750 loom but I’m sure it’s trashed as the bike was In horrible condition when I got it (hence why I used the B12 loom) here’s how she’s looking now and thanks in advance for any advice Cheers O Quote Link to comment
Otatts Posted January 16, 2020 Author Share Posted January 16, 2020 Am I correct in thinking because the 750 CDI doesn’t recognize (and doesn’t have inputs for) the neutral switch then I can just leave them unplugged?? just thinking out aloud here cheers O Quote Link to comment
MeanBean49 Posted January 16, 2020 Share Posted January 16, 2020 3 hours ago, Otatts said: Am I correct in thinking because the 750 CDI doesn’t recognize (and doesn’t have inputs for) the neutral switch then I can just leave them unplugged?? just thinking out aloud here cheers O Yes, 750 cdi doesnt have/need neutral wires Why do you want to use the 750 cdi in the 1st place? Theres no real benefit and you run the risk of over revving the 1200 lump Quote Link to comment
Otatts Posted January 16, 2020 Author Share Posted January 16, 2020 Ah ok cool. Thanks for that. using the 750 CDI as I’m planning on putting the DOT head on from the 750 too....cams etc. so I’m just getting one job out of the way while get ready to rip the head off the 750 and clean it up oh and the bandit runs out of guts way before redline so I never really bother revving it hard....better to just throw another gear at it thanks Quote Link to comment
MeanBean49 Posted January 16, 2020 Share Posted January 16, 2020 1 hour ago, Otatts said: Ah ok cool. Thanks for that. using the 750 CDI as I’m planning on putting the DOT head on from the 750 too....cams etc. so I’m just getting one job out of the way while get ready to rip the head off the 750 and clean it up oh and the bandit runs out of guts way before redline so I never really bother revving it hard....better to just throw another gear at it thanks You dont need the cdi, just the head and cams, they are what make the bandit run out of puff. Its not worth the effort, better off getting an ignitech for it so you can set your own ignition curve and also the rev limit Quote Link to comment
Otatts Posted January 16, 2020 Author Share Posted January 16, 2020 2 minutes ago, MeanBean49 said: You dont need the cdi, just the head and cams, they are what make the bandit run out of puff. Its not worth the effort, better off getting an ignitech for it so you can set your own ignition curve and also the rev limit Ah there’s a real nasty rev limiter at 10,000 rpm. I hit it a few times at the track but never on the street. Gsxr redline is at 13,500 so it’s gotta be done. pretty easy job now that I’m looking at it. Just a bit of soldering and chucking a whole heap of Bandit wires in the bin. The wires I need on both looms are the same colour too so it’s pretty straight forward Quote Link to comment
bluedog59 Posted January 16, 2020 Share Posted January 16, 2020 The redline is there for a mechanical reason and over revving is not a good idea. Quote Link to comment
MeanBean49 Posted January 16, 2020 Share Posted January 16, 2020 5 hours ago, Otatts said: Ah there’s a real nasty rev limiter at 10,000 rpm. I hit it a few times at the track but never on the street. Gsxr redline is at 13,500 so it’s gotta be done. pretty easy job now that I’m looking at it. Just a bit of soldering and chucking a whole heap of Bandit wires in the bin. The wires I need on both looms are the same colour too so it’s pretty straight forward Pretty sure bandit limiter is 11000, a good 1000rpm after they have run out of puff. Saying that back when I was racing and had no money i ran a, 12 motor on a, 750 loom and cdi, lasted a, went a, whole season with plenty of over revving and unintended limiter bashing and no problems. Also known people who have thrown rods out really quickly 1 Quote Link to comment
Otatts Posted January 16, 2020 Author Share Posted January 16, 2020 2 hours ago, MeanBean49 said: Pretty sure bandit limiter is 11000, a good 1000rpm after they have run out of puff. Saying that back when I was racing and had no money i ran a, 12 motor on a, 750 loom and cdi, lasted a, went a, whole season with plenty of over revving and unintended limiter bashing and no problems. Also known people who have thrown rods out really quickly yeah doing this on the cheap at this stage. Had the 750 stuff just lying here from the build so thought I’d use it. Unfortunately spare money with a toddler is not easy to come by. Gonna try save my pennies for a set of RS38’s and do the ignition/coils much much later Quote Link to comment
Dezza Posted January 17, 2020 Share Posted January 17, 2020 If you have a 12 Blandit engine with a DOT head in a 750 slingshot frame, you may get clearance problems when attempting to fit the carbs, especially RSs. The 1200 engine is taller than a 750 lump and I think the DOT head angles the carbs upwards a little, and RSs are a bit taller than most CVs so maybe have this in mind from the off Quote Link to comment
Otatts Posted January 17, 2020 Author Share Posted January 17, 2020 2 minutes ago, Dezza said: If you have a 12 Blandit engine with a DOT head in a 750 slingshot frame, you may get clearance problems when attempting to fit the carbs, especially RSs. The 1200 engine is taller than a 750 lump and I think the DOT head angles the carbs upwards a little, and RSs are a bit taller than most CVs so maybe have this in mind from the off Thanks Dezza. I did wonder about the height of the RS carbs! Going to have enough trouble with the clearance of the filters on the CV 36’s as there aren’t many that fit the oval carb intakes! It’s pretty tight already! Gah.....trial and error I guess 1 Quote Link to comment
MeanBean49 Posted January 17, 2020 Share Posted January 17, 2020 38 minutes ago, Otatts said: Thanks Dezza. I did wonder about the height of the RS carbs! Going to have enough trouble with the clearance of the filters on the CV 36’s as there aren’t many that fit the oval carb intakes! It’s pretty tight already! Gah.....trial and error I guess If you get feally stuck, using the dot head cams in a b12 head is virtually as good as using the whole lot, only a few bhp less, and using the RS's would more tham make up for it. Or a ported b12 head with dot cams is way better than a dot head Quote Link to comment
Otatts Posted January 17, 2020 Author Share Posted January 17, 2020 1 minute ago, MeanBean49 said: If you get feally stuck, using the dot head cams in a b12 head is virtually as good as using the whole lot, only a few bhp less, and using the RS's would more tham make up for it. Or a ported b12 head with dot cams is way better than a dot head That was definitely plan B. guessing porting and skimming the head would be the way to go. Should be plenty of room to skim the head as the compression is pretty low on the Blandit yeah? chances are the DOT head might be cracked as this seems to be a common problem with them around spark plug 2. Won’t know till I get the head off the motor.....which shouldn’t be too long now Quote Link to comment
Dezza Posted January 17, 2020 Share Posted January 17, 2020 Isn't much of the DOT head advantage (independent of cams) due to an increase in compression ratio? Another way forward would be to use a big bore kit to increase the compression ratio and then use the 750 cams in the Blandit 12 head, which keeps the carbs at their lowest possible position, although tank modifications may still be needed. This would definitley be an option if your DOT head is cracked Quote Link to comment
Otatts Posted January 17, 2020 Author Share Posted January 17, 2020 1 minute ago, Dezza said: Isn't much of the DOT head advantage (independent of cams) due to an increase in compression ratio? Another way forward would be to use a big bore kit to increase the compression ratio and then use the 750 cams in the Blandit 12 head, which keeps the carbs at their lowest possible position, although tank modifications may still be needed. This would definitley be an option if your DOT head is cracked Yeah. Sorry I was talking about skimming the Bandit head not the DOT. but yeah the piston idea to boost compression is a great idea. All depends on $$$ I guess Quote Link to comment
MeanBean49 Posted January 17, 2020 Share Posted January 17, 2020 55 minutes ago, Otatts said: Yeah. Sorry I was talking about skimming the Bandit head not the DOT. but yeah the piston idea to boost compression is a great idea. All depends on $$$ I guess In my experience you would do well ti find a dot head thats not cracked, but I was told by a wise person once they are nothing to really worry about, just surface cracking and will always happen, just live with it. Not sure on others experience but I have never had any issues with running heads with few cracks round the plug head. Wouldnt use head if the were anywhere else though 1 Quote Link to comment
Otatts Posted January 17, 2020 Author Share Posted January 17, 2020 19 minutes ago, MeanBean49 said: In my experience you would do well ti find a dot head thats not cracked, but I was told by a wise person once they are nothing to really worry about, just surface cracking and will always happen, just live with it. Not sure on others experience but I have never had any issues with running heads with few cracks round the plug head. Wouldnt use head if the were anywhere else though Going down the rabbit hole of piston kit research now after your suggestion!! Ha ha! good to know about the head cracks. The 750 motor had low comp on cylinder 2 but not sure why until I pull it apart. Kid and wifey are away for two weeks this Monday so that = garage time hoping just to freshen up the DOT head and fit the CV 36’s I have on it already and run the 750 CDI for now. That’s the cheapest option. Then I can save to port the bandit head/ 1216 piston kit/ RS 38’s for later one question MeanBean. If I run both gsxr cams in the B12 is it ‘safe’ to rev it up past 10-11k?? I thought the 1127 and B12 were basically the same bottom end no? Quote Link to comment
MeanBean49 Posted January 17, 2020 Share Posted January 17, 2020 1 hour ago, Otatts said: Going down the rabbit hole of piston kit research now after your suggestion!! Ha ha! good to know about the head cracks. The 750 motor had low comp on cylinder 2 but not sure why until I pull it apart. Kid and wifey are away for two weeks this Monday so that = garage time hoping just to freshen up the DOT head and fit the CV 36’s I have on it already and run the 750 CDI for now. That’s the cheapest option. Then I can save to port the bandit head/ 1216 piston kit/ RS 38’s for later one question MeanBean. If I run both gsxr cams in the B12 is it ‘safe’ to rev it up past 10-11k?? I thought the 1127 and B12 were basically the same bottom end no? 1127 rev limit is same as b12 as far as im aware, its not the cams that limit how hard you can rev it, its the rotating mass, crank, rods pistons, and how long the stroke is. The forces generated in the longer stroke motors are much higher at high rpm than in the shorter stroke 750 ones, thats what kills them. I have my turbo motor limiter set at 11500 rpm and its quite happy at that, power has tailed off by 11000 anyway, even with ported and flowed head with gsxr cams 1 Quote Link to comment
dupersunc Posted January 17, 2020 Share Posted January 17, 2020 The valves and cams just aren't big enough to pull past 10000rpm in the high gears. I always run 750 cdi on my 7/11s, I like so have the extra revs in lower gears. The bandit motors are built more cheaply than the gsxr motors though. so not sure they take the abuse so easily. £180 on a ignitech and there quickshifter is a no brainer though, and makes even more sense with flatslides and big bore kits. 1 Quote Link to comment
Otatts Posted January 17, 2020 Author Share Posted January 17, 2020 Ahhhh ok. Shit I thought the 750 and 1100 had the same rev limit! will definitely look into an ignition system. Both you guys seem to recommend ignitech......any benefit over a Dyna 2000 set up or pretty much same same? Quote Link to comment
dupersunc Posted January 17, 2020 Share Posted January 17, 2020 3 minutes ago, Otatts said: Ahhhh ok. Shit I thought the 750 and 1100 had the same rev limit! will definitely look into an ignition system. Both you guys seem to recommend ignitech......any benefit over a Dyna 2000 set up or pretty much same same? 1/3 the price of a dyna 2000 and 10x the functionality. Quote Link to comment
Otatts Posted January 17, 2020 Author Share Posted January 17, 2020 1 minute ago, dupersunc said: 1/3 the price of a dyna 2000 and 10x the functionality. excellent. Will look into it Quote Link to comment
370steve Posted January 17, 2020 Share Posted January 17, 2020 42 minutes ago, Otatts said: excellent. Will look into it talk to Rob (Meanbean) about the Ignitech Quote Link to comment
Otatts Posted January 17, 2020 Author Share Posted January 17, 2020 Yeah I’ve been digging back through the archives and saw MeanBean mentions them a bit. Also found a thread from 2017 about this exact subject so sorry for going back over the same topic (I find the search engine on the site a bit tricky sometimes) looks like the Sparker TCIP4 is the one to go for. @Meanbean49 is there much difference between the ‘standard’ and ‘full version’ of the TCIP4?? There’s only about a $8 price difference. the write up on the site only seems to mention a single version yet on the price list there’s two and yeah it’s about half the price of the Dyna setup but I guess you get coils with the Dyna......not that I need them. My coils are fine 43 minutes ago, 370steve said: talk to Rob (Meanbean) about the Ignitech Quote Link to comment
MeanBean49 Posted January 17, 2020 Share Posted January 17, 2020 25 minutes ago, Otatts said: Yeah I’ve been digging back through the archives and saw MeanBean mentions them a bit. Also found a thread from 2017 about this exact subject so sorry for going back over the same topic (I find the search engine on the site a bit tricky sometimes) looks like the Sparker TCIP4 is the one to go for. @Meanbean49 is there much difference between the ‘standard’ and ‘full version’ of the TCIP4?? There’s only about a $8 price difference. the write up on the site only seems to mention a single version yet on the price list there’s two and yeah it’s about half the price of the Dyna setup but I guess you get coils with the Dyna......not that I need them. My coils are fine Full version has more functions, i always get full, for the sake of a few quid more you might as well have it all. I get really good discount on them, have done bulk orders a few times on here for people. Quite a big saving. Happy to order them at cost for anyone who does want one 2 Quote Link to comment
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