Reelinfeele Posted October 24, 2019 Share Posted October 24, 2019 (edited) Hay all, may have stumbled into a very good condition water cooled 1100. I do not know too much about these. What should I look for? Major issues? Wait for an oil cooled bike? I know they have to be heavier, but my plan is an old school streetfighter build... Thank you... Edited October 24, 2019 by Reelinfeele Photo for display Quote Link to comment
NorthernBloke Posted October 24, 2019 Share Posted October 24, 2019 I've got one and I like it, Mine goes like stink so I'm happy with it and they tend to go for less money than oil cooled models so its your choice really, I'm part way into fightering mine as well so that means you loose a shed load of weight and combined with a lightweight exhaust you've lost some more. Its a long time since I had an oil cooled one so difficult for me to compare. What to look for apart from the usual bodges on any 20 year old bike, the engine can have a whining noise which on mine was the starter clutch bearing, which is easy and inexpensive to change. The only other thing is that they are more fiddly to work on with all the extra pipework under the tank. Quote Link to comment
Captain Chaos Posted October 25, 2019 Share Posted October 25, 2019 fuel taps are crap on watercooled GSX-R's. And as NorthernBloke said these bikes are a bitch to work on. Quote Link to comment
Dezza Posted October 26, 2019 Share Posted October 26, 2019 Pros: big power and it looks like a proper GSXR; Cons: it's not air- or oil-cooled Quote Link to comment
kja.busa Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 (edited) Can the 750 cylinder head be modded to fit on these (the 1100) like other gsxr's? Edited October 27, 2019 by kja.busa Quote Link to comment
dupersunc Posted October 28, 2019 Share Posted October 28, 2019 13 hours ago, kja.busa said: Can the 750 cylinder head be modded to fit on these (the 1100) like other gsxr's? Don't think there is the advantage of smaller combustion chambers like on the 750 dot conversion, and the ports are higher so carbs wouldn't fit in a stock frame. Early wn/p 1100 had mild cams so 750 cams were and improvement, later 1100 wr/s models had better cams. 1127cc oil cooled pistons give a slight over bore and higher cr so are a worthwhile mod. Great engines that were softened off by the factory as they produced a bit too much for chassis and tyre tech of the time. Quote Link to comment
NorthernBloke Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 On 10/28/2019 at 11:25 AM, dupersunc said: Don't think there is the advantage of smaller combustion chambers like on the 750 dot conversion, and the ports are higher so carbs wouldn't fit in a stock frame. Early wn/p 1100 had mild cams so 750 cams were and improvement, later 1100 wr/s models had better cams. 1127cc oil cooled pistons give a slight over bore and higher cr so are a worthwhile mod. Great engines that were softened off by the factory as they produced a bit too much for chassis and tyre tech of the time. Do you know if the 750 cams are a direct replacement, same for the WR / WS? Also are the cam caps line bored so how does that effect using “new” cams. Quote Link to comment
markfoggy Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 I may be wrong, but I doubt it. 750 and 1100 will be the same casting. No way would they do a different one for both. Cams should drop in. fine, but I'd be counting the cam teeth just to make sure that the tooth count isn't different on the 750. Running a marker pen around the journals and spinning the new cams a few times is a good way to check if they're going to be awkward. Caps really do need to go back in their orininal position and orientation. But is possible to knock out any high spots with a little grinding paste. Really experienced engine builders actually scpape/flake in the journals for a perfect fit, but I've never seen it done. Would certainly make me nervous trying, but I believe that it's possible to get them spinning with negligible resistance and leave a fish scale finish on them that retains oil better. Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 Can't say it can't be done but 'scraping' is usually done on flat surfaces to true them up to micron / sub micron tolerances in flatness! As a pressurised oil fed bearing, there should never be a metal/metal contact only having oil drag to contend with! Scraping is also generally done on 'hard' materials - cast iron, steel etc. not aluminium as its too soft - any scraped peaks would be worn smooth through use. Quote Link to comment
dupersunc Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 58 minutes ago, NorthernBloke said: Do you know if the 750 cams are a direct replacement, same for the WR / WS? Also are the cam caps line bored so how does that effect using “new” cams. Yes, swap in but use the 1100 cam sprockets. stock timing marks will work as a start point. cam caps are matched to head not cams. 1 Quote Link to comment
Fazz711 Posted January 31, 2020 Share Posted January 31, 2020 On 1/27/2020 at 10:15 PM, Gixer1460 said: Can't say it can't be done but 'scraping' is usually done on flat surfaces to true them up to micron / sub micron tolerances in flatness! As a pressurised oil fed bearing, there should never be a metal/metal contact only having oil drag to contend with! Scraping is also generally done on 'hard' materials - cast iron, steel etc. not aluminium as its too soft - any scraped peaks would be worn smooth through use. Scraping is done on white metal bearings for large electric motors. The best engineers I have witnessed doing it attack them and they look a reel mess but work very well. They look like they have deep scores in but when you run finger on the surface it's smooth. It's all about getting the oil to flow around the bearing and Shaft. Quote Link to comment
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