Jump to content

6” Rear wheel in a slab


davecara

Recommended Posts

Anyone done it? 
massive ballache?

Just thinking out loud really, I’ve got a gen2 busa wheel and toying with sticking it in the slabby. I understand it’ll need machining etc, I had the same when I put the same wheel in my EF.

The ‘handling issue’ won’t really be an issue. I’ll run out of talent waaaay before the bike does

Link to post
26 minutes ago, MeanBean49 said:

More hassle than its worth, much better off running a, 5.5 with a, 180/60 on. Also clearence on slingshots is really tight on 5.5 let alone with a 6".

Pretty sure slabby sprocket offset is less than slingy. 

It’ll be easier than making spindles or top hats/swapping bearings to make a slingy wheel work with my forks though surely?

Link to post
7 minutes ago, davecara said:

It’ll be easier than making spindles or top hats/swapping bearings to make a slingy wheel work with my forks though surely?

Whats the front got to do with it? Lol

Pretty sure you can get bearings and tube to sort front wheel out easy enough. Thats way way easier then the amount of machining work need to get the rear to work, as well as the bearings/spacers/top hats needed too. To then end up with bugger all chain/tyre clearence and imho shite handling

  • Like 1
Link to post

My wheels have got to match! 
I’ve got a pair of slingshot wheels and a pair of Gen2 busa wheels.

Slingy wheels= easy in the back, difficult in the front with the K6 forks

Busa wheels = easy in the front, slight cockache in the back. Can’t see it being any worse than when I put the busa wheel in my EF though 

  • Like 1
Link to post
37 minutes ago, davecara said:

My wheels have got to match! 
I’ve got a pair of slingshot wheels and a pair of Gen2 busa wheels.

Slingy wheels= easy in the back, difficult in the front with the K6 forks

Busa wheels = easy in the front, slight cockache in the back. Can’t see it being any worse than when I put the busa wheel in my EF though 

Bandit 12 wheel in the rear matches busa wheel in the front, dead cheap to get and no machining or dicking about

Link to post
26 minutes ago, clivegto said:

Gen 2 busa wheels are heavy for a track bike. 

Very true but I’m trying to work with what I’ve got lying around. If my ability on a track warrants lighter wheels I can always revisit it in the future.

  • Like 1
Link to post

Won't it depend on the sprocket carrier design of the wheel in question as to how difficult it will be to get the chain to clear the frame when using a 6 inch rim? A 5.5 and a 6 inch rim will both take a 180 tyre so I am guessing there won't be that much saving in clearance sticking to a 5.5 wheel depending on variation in tyre makes and how they sit on different sized rims. What really makes the difference is how difficult it is to remove metal from the sprocket carrier in order to make the chain just clear the tyre, and for the opposite edge to clear the frame. With some sprocket carriers this can effectively be impossible without making a bespoke sprocket carrier. I know this from experience. Other wheels have sprocket carrier designs that enable much machining so this is the conundrum that needs solving. I have an interest in this point as I have a 750 slabby frame for my next project and some Dymag wheels for it, the back one having a 6 inch rim. There's no way it will go on without a new carrier being made though due to the design of the Dymag carrier:) An alternative is obviously modifying the frame itself but that to me sounds a very last resort.

Link to post

To be honest @Dezzathe only reason I'm considering it is because I've put the same wheels in my EF. The distance of from the centre of the 1052 cases (in the EFE) to the outside of the sprocket will be the same as the 750 lump I'm using, the wheel is dead centre in the EF so it stands to reason that if I mod the wheel I've got in exactly the same way as I did for the EF it'll fit the slab, or at least the chain line will be right. ( does that make sense?O.o)

Frame/Swingarm clearance may be another matter though....

  • Like 1
Link to post

Not this topic again. I had a busa wheel and fancied a 6" rim but as it became a race bike and I needed 2 sets of wheels I opted for slingy rear wheels. Easy peasy lemon squeezey.

If you want a 6" rim go for it. It can be done but you're on your own sailor and we want a "how to" thread so we don't have to have this discussion again.

Link to post

If your going to have a go the best starting point is to measure each wheel from centre to inside face of rear sprocket, thats the important bit. 

Iirc slingshot wheels are 100mm, busa, srad, TL and early K-series are 110mm

And i think slabbies are around 90-95mm

Link to post

6mm off the sprocket carrier where the sprocket bolts on. 3mm* offset front sprocket.

you'll need to mount the brake torque arm on the out side of the frame mount in single shear and bend it to clear the tyre.

*front Sprocket offset will depend on engine.  Not all oil boilers are the same.

Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...