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bike not starting


v-twinwalker

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not the whole assembly, just the 

38 minutes ago, Sheep said:

Do you mean the throttle assembly itself moves around on the bar as in the whole thing,grip and tube...if so then that need sorting too as that will not help when fitting/adjusting cables.

not the whole assembly, that sits tight, but the actual cable moves, so the metal tube that ends up being fitted on the assembly i can spin it all around no restriction.

the cable was already pretty bad i didnt realise, when me an my bud we're messing around with the throttle weeks ago when we were tightening it there would be no change in idle till u gave it a few good spins so its definitely stretched out, didnt think of it then but i do now

Edited by v-twinwalker
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Oh for god's sake ! If the engine / carbs are healthy, it will run and idle / rev out without any cable connected - IGNORE the ancillaries - focus on the main things! Now you present another (fairly critical) issue fuel tap / fuel supply! I assume these carbs have a choke - are you using it? Again - get a manual ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 

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My head hurts :S  I think you have posted that many different questions that are basically looking at the same issue, are causing some confusion. As people have said the Knackered throttle cable is probably not the main cause of your starting problems. And if the bike has been stood for a length of time the best thing to do is CLEAN and balance the carbs stick a new air filter on it and go from there. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Having a similar problem. Bike starts right up with a bit of starter fluid blasted into the air intake, then proceeds to run fine. Won't start on its own though. Has a vacuum fuel cock, but even using the prime function, no go. 

Could be a carb issue keeping it from starting but not affecting it once gas is flowing?

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4 hours ago, Res said:

Having a similar problem. Bike starts right up with a bit of starter fluid blasted into the air intake, then proceeds to run fine. Won't start on its own though. Has a vacuum fuel cock, but even using the prime function, no go. 

Could be a carb issue keeping it from starting but not affecting it once gas is flowing?

What bike is it? It sounds like one or more of the very fine cold starter circuit drillings has become blocked. This is now common when carbs are left standing for months full of fuel because the fuel tends to 'varnish'  presmuably after the most volatile components have evaporated. The drillings are in the float bowls and there are some in the carb bodies themselves. I am guessing the bike starts and runs fine when the engine is warm.

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Gsx400. It did sit with gas in it for at least a year. Drained that and changed the fuel and vacuum lines. Prime setting on fuel cock not working, but once it's going, gas flows on run or reserve. 

Today I started it with starting spray. Ran it for about a minute, then shut it off. This time it did start again without spray. First time that's happened. I've run it for a few minutes before and tried with no success. Maybe a few runs loosened things up? Still going to clean the carbs over the winter.

I'll try a cold start tomorrow and see what happens!

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7 hours ago, Res said:

 

I'll try a cold start tomorrow and see what happens!

What's the point? If it runs with starter spray, it's not an ignition problem, it points to fuelling.

It'll never be right till the carbs have been cleaned. Sounds like the cold start circuit is blocked, which is very common. As has been said.

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3 hours ago, Res said:

Good point. Thanks.

Like I said, I'll definitely be cleaning the carbs.

Best place to order rebuild kits?

Depends where you are  - 'Murica, Gods own Country - UK or other godforsaken part of the Planet?

To which the logical choices would be Sudco, Allens and not a scooby doo!

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On 10/17/2019 at 6:33 AM, Res said:

Good point. Thanks.

Like I said, I'll definitely be cleaning the carbs.

Best place to order rebuild kits?

Eblag is the best place for me atleast im in the us and suzuki rebuild kits usually are really cheap, if its been sitting for a year it may not need a full rebuild u could just need like gaskets but im not saying its wrong to just get all new pieces, theres a 25-30 min vid on cleaning mikuni carbs and its very informative beginner or not. if the tank is rusted tho u can order a tank restoration kit off kbs coatings ill link these things in the end, use the rust remover just enough to make it be able to thrash around in the tank and shake that shit for a long time im talking like i did it for 2 hours atleast but i had it looking brand new with a few bad spots that were super dark spots, u dont have to use the coating and if u dont want to u can order the kit stuff seperate but if u get the sealant u never worry about rust again. also im pretty sure u can switch to a manual petcock instead of a vacuum with minor adjustments id search it up just to make sure i gues theyre more reliable in terms of not needing rebuilds (not saying ur vacuum is gonna end up breaking but they can) but the reason theres vacuum ones is because u can just forget about it and not worry about flooding ur carbd. use seafoam too if u been running the bike with a rusty tank im sure the valves are dirty and if its a 80s bike u should run non ethanol if u have a station close by u dont need to but it can wear the valve seals out overtime if they sit with ethanol.

also idk how much u know about bikes im just telling u what i know but u just use the prime for like a couple seconds just to let some gas run but dont just leave it on again i dont know what u know about bikes lol not saying ur dumb

also make sure ur idles high enough u might be able to find a online service manual if u dont get a actual one its like $25

Gas Tank Sealer - Large Motorcycle Tank Sealer Kit - Fiberglass Tank Sealer

carb clean video

Edited by v-twinwalker
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