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Gsxr slabside


slabsideB12Kent

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I'm looking for some advice on the reincarnation of my 87 7/12.

Currently running standard 1200 engine, carbs, loom and rear wheel, old skool micron 4-2-1 (dyno @ 120bhp)

Handles really well compared to the 18" deamon it was before. I've been collecting parts for a while now and I now want to start the strip down and reassemble. 

My questions are, 

I have an ohlins 1100 rear shock, is it possible to get the length and stroke adjusted? 

Can a gsxr 750k1 rear wheel be made to fit the swing arm? (so rear wheel matches the front) 

Would a slingshot curved oil cooler fit under a slabby fairing? 

I'm thinking about mukini rs 36 Flatslides, good idea? 

Regards, Chris 

Edited by slabsideB12Kent
Fucked up
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1100 & 750 shocks are different lengths as you probably know. Don't think a specialist could alter it & if they could it would be cheeper to get a fresh shock. K1 wheel will fit with a bit of adjustment. Curved cooler will not fit the standard setup. But anything is possible with a bit of fetaling. 

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Actually I've had a couple of shocks rebuilt and altered in the past. As long as you have a good shock in the first place that just needs a refresh and is not a real odd ball fitting/spec, it can work out as the cheapest way of getting a near as new shock that fits. It's worth ringing a few specialists but do it before the season finishes or be prepared to wait.

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The way it worked was that most suspension specialists have a stock of used parts that are in good condition and within spec. If it's possible and they have the bits it's basically a full strip and service then rebuilt with the appropriate bits. In my case, most of my unused bit were within spec and so part exchanged against their bits. The main thing is, ask. It could be just a simple damper rod swap or you may find it's so different it's not viable.

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  • 11 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

@slabsideB12KentK rear wheel will go in with a bit of machining and new spacers here is what I did to fit mine.

1,Remove the oil seal from the sprocket carrier and machine it flush the the bearing.

2, machine 6mm from the inner spacer to move the carrier 6mm closer to the wheel.

3,trim 3mm off the Outer face of the cushdrive rubbers (A sharp kitchen knife does the trick.

4, machine new top hat spacers Left and right to centralise the wheel 

5, machine a new Cush tube to fit between the new top hat spacers.

jobs a good un (y)

63A0C108-96A0-4A02-AF3F-BD11CECAFCC4.jpeg

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