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clutch operating mechanism swap

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yes  I know, one "pushes" the pressure plate and the other "pulls" it.

Looking at the part diagrams, the thrust bearings are the same, so the release rack (17) from the Slingy should fit in the pressure plate of the 1100.

Unless I'm missing something completely here it should work. Where are those adults when you need them?

750M clutch


750M clutch.JPG

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Are you putting the full 750m clutch in the 1100f?

As the main things I can see is number 17 and number 13 apart from the 1100f being a 4 bolt clutch and the 750m a 6 bolt clutch.

are the primary drives on the back of the clutch baskets the same?

if not have you thought about drilling the centre of the clutch outer plate so it can take the number 17?

Maybe no not the answer you wanted xD

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not swapping any clutch bits, only number 17. Now I don't remember if the Powerscreen pressure plate already has the hole in the center or not. If not I'll drill it, but I want to know if it works before opening up my only rideable (at the moment) bike.

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Copied form a site called Krypt racer, now gone, but available without photos on waybackmachine 21/08/2016.

Have never been fond of any of the OEM crossover clutch release offerings. Ditto with hyd clutch release set ups and all the extra related parts/problems. GS/EFE style rack/arm with a cable to operate offers the best feel and reliability. Came standard on oil cooled 750 R models 88-91. MTC spacer and reworked 1100 pusher is all it takes to convert with non- lockup applications. Use the oem clutch rack that comes with cover. If the smooth cover is used the clutch rack may have to be shortened slightly. MTC extended length clutch rack is required to clear the length of the weight arms on lock-up applications.  CRG Supersport lever and OEM cable works flawlessly.                                                                                              

A few clutch racks that are available.....Left to Right as follows;
#1 is a slightly shorter modded srad unit that is needed if the smooth cover is used. #2 is a 88/89 750 R model that comes with the dimpled cover and can be used as/is. #3 came from a RF 900 w/ coil spring clutch. #4 is an extended length GS/EFE unit from MTC for use with lock up applications. The item on the far right is a modded 1100 hyd release unit. Remove the standard hump(?) and grind it just flush/flat, needs .003-.005 end play from backside of rack when everything is installed/tight.Bearings/shim(s) are OEM. May have to use 2 shims , then again maybe not. On the 89 750 cover w/MTC spacer everything went in as standard when using OEM pressure plate with out the lock up. Lock up install is still being sorted. Bit of trail & error here but worth it as the 750 rack/arm set up beats any of the OEM crossover pushrod installs. MTC spacers are about 90.00 US or so plus shipping.


If no lock-up is used either the coil spring clutch or the later 89-up clutch in a 1052
basket is a straight forward install. Cut down hyd release pusher is there to keep the
rack from falling in while installing the cover. Simple plug machined to the proper dims 
could also be used. 89 750 cover/rack on the left - Smooth cover and cut SRAD rack on 
the right. Cut 1100 pusher unit is a common as is the MTC 1.250 thick spacer.

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according to that article the '88-'89 model has a dimpled cover and the '90-'91 has a smooth cover, should be the other way round. Or am I not reading it correctly?

I guess the only way to know for sure is to just try it.

Edited by Captain Chaos
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6 hours ago, Captain Chaos said:

I know the clutch cover can be swapped between 750 and 1127 engines, but how about the operating mechanism?

On my Powerscreen lump (GSX1100F) I want to install the clutch cover and cable and lever etc from a GSX-R750M. I have all the parts (both engines complete), will it work?

Thanks in advance - CC

I assume you are referring to the cover that has the cable mount top right and the cable runs around the engine

if so yes "well it did on a motor on the bench"............

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the Powerscreen lump in my 750L now has a Teapot 600 clutch cable and sprocket cover, but I've never been happy about the cable routing. That's why I want to install the original Slingy 750 clutch mechanism.

Added benefit would have been that I could use the Teapot parts on my B12 engined EFE, which now has hydraulic clutch operation with a f@cked master cilinder.

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5 hours ago, Captain Chaos said:

just had a look. It would work, but I need a spacer for the clutch cover, which I do not have.

The idea was to use only standard Slingy parts for this swap, but that's not possible.

oooh I had a lock-up and spacer on mine ..but did not think stock would need one......

every days a skool day :tu

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  • 4 weeks later...

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