Swiss Toni Posted July 2, 2019 Share Posted July 2, 2019 I hate this stuff! Went to turn the Blandit over today. Ign. on, clutch in, hit the tit ... and got that sound we all dread. 'Phuttt'! Everything dead. No idiot lights ... nothing! So, main fuse, I thought. Nope! Changed it anyway, still nowt! Removed, checked and cleaned all fuses in fuse box. Still nothing! No burned wires. No 'Magic Smoke'. Just ... nothing. Where to start checking? Any ideas? I hate electrics!!! Quote Link to comment
Askamaskinservice Posted July 2, 2019 Share Posted July 2, 2019 Ignitionswitch/key or bad connections on battery. That's where i would start. //Hasse. Quote Link to comment
Ted M Posted July 2, 2019 Share Posted July 2, 2019 I'd start at the battery and work my way out from there. I feel your pain 1 Quote Link to comment
wsn03 Posted July 2, 2019 Share Posted July 2, 2019 20 minutes ago, Swiss Toni said: I hate this stuff! Went to turn the Blandit over today. Ign. on, clutch in, hit the tit ... and got that sound we all dread. 'Phuttt'! Everything dead. No idiot lights ... nothing! So, main fuse, I thought. Nope! Changed it anyway, still nowt! Removed, checked and cleaned all fuses in fuse box. Still nothing! No burned wires. No 'Magic Smoke'. Just ... nothing. Where to start checking? Any ideas? I hate electrics!!! Do you have an optimiser? I like them because they keep it charged and let you know if its fooked. I too would start with battery, loose connections etc dont start from doing nothing, though corrosion does of course. WD40 sprayed on electronics...vaseline on connectors. Quote Link to comment
wraith Posted July 2, 2019 Share Posted July 2, 2019 Have you got this thing I've been told they are a pain, ever the red button thing has poped up or a bad wire. It the main power switch/fuse from battery to fuse box. Quote Link to comment
Swiss Toni Posted July 2, 2019 Author Share Posted July 2, 2019 @wraithI thought that unit was an early GSXR thing only? Quote Link to comment
wraith Posted July 2, 2019 Share Posted July 2, 2019 No, there is one on a b6 harness i have (for a project) and one on a b12 harness, saying that the b12 harness I have is from the 1156cc very first b12, so you may be right on the latter ones? But worth a look Quote Link to comment
Simbec1863 Posted July 2, 2019 Share Posted July 2, 2019 I’d check the clutch switch and the side stand relay connections I’ve had similar issues on my race bandit not starting even though the battery was ok 1 Quote Link to comment
wraith Posted July 2, 2019 Share Posted July 2, 2019 Start at the basics, 1. Dose the battery have power? 2. Are you getting power to fuse box and starter solenoid, by the two red wires coming off battery, cross the terminals on solenoid with screw driver see if engine turns over. 3. Is power going to ignition switch by the red wire? 4. Is there power coming out of ignition switch when turned on by the orange wire? The very basics, sorry if you know/done this not trying to teach you how to suck eggs 1 Quote Link to comment
Swiss Toni Posted July 2, 2019 Author Share Posted July 2, 2019 @wraithSean. Not got one of them doodads between batt. and fuse box. Electrics definitely not my strongpoint so, any help welcome!@Simbec1863Sidestand inhibitor shorted out with link. Clutch inhibitor already replaced. Battery showing 13.7V. Whole system dead as a doornail! Will start going through it systematically mañana! 1 Quote Link to comment
wsn03 Posted July 3, 2019 Share Posted July 3, 2019 Had this once on the GSXR...bad earth by the ignition harness. Found it by jiggling the harness with ignition on. Have you got an alarm / immobilser? I took mine off my Bandit Quote Link to comment
E T Posted July 3, 2019 Share Posted July 3, 2019 Had similar prob with a mates bike last week it turned out to be the plug on the earth wire for loom 1 Quote Link to comment
IceKat Posted July 3, 2019 Share Posted July 3, 2019 Swiss have had a similar problem recently on my B12 battery showed fully charged all idiot lights workef but press the starter and all dead. First thought main fuse , but actually turned out to the battery that was at fault even though it showed fully charged 1 Quote Link to comment
Swiss Toni Posted July 3, 2019 Author Share Posted July 3, 2019 (edited) @wsn03No immobiliser or alarms fitted. @E TI've pulled that plug apart and cleaned it. Still nothing. @IceKatI've got nothing. No idiot lights, dead as a doornail! Batt. shows 12.7V. When I switched ign. on, everything lit up as normal. Pulled clutch lever and hit the button, there was a definate crack from the centre of the bike! So, apart from the main fuse being blown, which it isn't, what could cause the electrics to be totally brown bread? Earths are tight! Edited July 4, 2019 by Swiss Toni Quote Link to comment
rdubandit Posted July 3, 2019 Share Posted July 3, 2019 Try swapping in a working battery from another bike. Unloaded battery voltage can be misleading. 1 Quote Link to comment
wsn03 Posted July 4, 2019 Share Posted July 4, 2019 7 hours ago, rdubandit said: Try swapping in a working battery from another bike. Unloaded battery voltage can be misleading. Was going to suggest the same. I had the same thing once with a battery Quote Link to comment
duncan Posted July 4, 2019 Share Posted July 4, 2019 20 minutes ago, wsn03 said: Was going to suggest the same. I had the same thing once with a battery Yep, 12+ V might be showing but as soon as you put load on it (even the tail light was enough in my case) it comes crashing down to near 0. Made it a point in these cases to check the voltage while pressing the starter button (with ignition on of course). Anything under 10V is bad, as the coils wont work properly anymore. Also (long shot, and I wouldn't believe it if I didn't see it in person): Check the polarity on the battery! I've had one reverse itself so that + and - got swapped. Didn't know that was possible and it took us way too long to find out. Apparently a combination heat and deep discharge can cause a battery to reverse it's polarity. If you only look at voltage and not check for the little minus sign on display, you might never see it. 1 Quote Link to comment
Swiss Toni Posted July 4, 2019 Author Share Posted July 4, 2019 (edited) Well ... it's sorted! All you guys that suspected the battery, were spot on! Even though the bastard thing was showing 12.7V! Anyway, as I'd just bought a new battery for our lass's car, I decided to hook it up to the bike before I fitted it to her car. Bonny Lights back! Turned over a bit sluggish, though! Stripped and cleaned starter solenoid, starter motor and battery terminals. Cleaned the main earth on the back of the crankcases (could Suzuki have made it any more awkward to get to?), and re-fitted it. Hit the button again, and cranking speed back to normal! @duncan Same symptoms as you, excluding reverse polarity! Battery showing 12.7V. Soon as ignition switched on, voltage drop to .7V recovering to 1.9V! FUBAR'd then! Bearing in mind FBJ's scary new battery experience, what's decent gear, and what's to avoid? Cheers Oldskooler's! Edited July 5, 2019 by Swiss Toni 4 Quote Link to comment
wraith Posted July 4, 2019 Share Posted July 4, 2019 Motobatt are good, if you get a good one but had 3 and only one was ok but the ok one is very good Varta I've always used with no problems 1 Quote Link to comment
Blubber Posted July 4, 2019 Share Posted July 4, 2019 Yuasa for me but that is because my friendly local bike shop stocks them. Never had any trouble with the brand either...especially the " bigger" CCA aka the YTX versions 1 Quote Link to comment
wsn03 Posted July 4, 2019 Share Posted July 4, 2019 5 hours ago, Swiss Toni said: Well ... it's sorted! All you guys that suspected the battery, were spot on! For all the bastard thing was showing 12.7V! Anyway, as I'd just bought a new battery for our lass's car, I decided to hook it up to the bike before I fitted it to her car. Bonny Lights back! Turned over a bit sluggish, though! Stripped and cleaned starter solenoid, starter motor and battery terminals. Cleaned the main earth on the back of the crankcases (could Suzuki have made it any more awkward to get to?), and re-fitted it. Hit the button again, and cranking speed back to normal! @duncan Same symptoms as you, excluding reverse polarity! Battery showing 12.7A. Soon as ignition switched on, voltage drop to .7A recovering to 1.9A. FUBAR'd then! Bearing in mind FBJ's scary new battery experience, what's decent gear, and what's to avoid? Cheers OSSer's! Make sure you vaseline up those bits you've cleaned, stop the corrosion coming back 1 Quote Link to comment
wraith Posted July 4, 2019 Share Posted July 4, 2019 9 minutes ago, wsn03 said: Make sure you vaseline up those bits you've cleaned, stop the corrosion coming back You're getting kinky Quote Link to comment
wsn03 Posted July 4, 2019 Share Posted July 4, 2019 29 minutes ago, wraith said: You're getting kinky Quote Link to comment
Swiss Toni Posted July 4, 2019 Author Share Posted July 4, 2019 Still showing 12.7V. Just put an indicator bulb across battery, wouldn't even light it! Not a flicker! New one at weekend, methinks! 1 Quote Link to comment
wraith Posted July 4, 2019 Share Posted July 4, 2019 You could try a LED they take less power Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.