Simbec1863
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Posts posted by Simbec1863
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Spending more time away with work but got a nice text then phone call in Denmark tonight with an update from my tuning guru as he has acquired me a low mileage later model engine which is already in bits and looking clean with little wear
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I only found out as my sister in law lives across the road from GIA and always chatted with him
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3 hours ago, Dezza said:
So GIA have recently changed their name to SpondonGIA?
Yes since Gav unfortunately died they have relaunched for want of a better word under new management from what I’ve been told
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Rear shock arrived from Colin at 100% Suspension, price includes some suspension setup at a round of my choice next season to
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Provisional race schedule for next seasons FP3
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Car sold today to put some cash in the race fund
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I’m in mate
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Haven’t made my mind up yet but will be more than likely selling the slabby lump to fund something with a little bit more power if my plan works out…watch this space
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Another piece of the jigsaw turned up
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I’m in the process of starting to build my slabby race bike but will be using a 750 M engine, I haven’t got the M engine yet and I’m not familiar with any differences from my R705 motor.
Anyone with the knowledge know if I can simply use the slabby down pipes I already have or do I need to source some 750M ones? -
I only asked them last week and they said no problem we’ll send you some for free
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3 minutes ago, Markz9 said:
Just about got the srad ready to play with so no pressure Simon
Looking good Mark roll on next season, I might be getting a mildly tuned M motor instead of using the original slabby one just to give me a fighting chance
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Cheers Dave will do
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Yes mate I’ll be running them for now as one of the classes stipulated 18” the other I can run 17” so to keep costs down next season I’ll run conti classic endurance tyres then I don’t need wets either I’m up against SRADs and any pre 98 750 superbikes so it will be a challenge
but I’ll keep going round and round and try not to be last
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1st part of the puzzle arrived today big thanks to HEL for the continued support and my complimentary brake lines
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Thanks again @Markz9 I’ll take good care of her
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Happy to bring something
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The racing blandit is sold so a trip down south today to collect next seasons race project,back home now here’s a couple of pics before putting her in the shed.I’ll document the build as it progresses,hopefully get her ready for some racing next year
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Road trip yesterday for a catch-up with the OSS crew at Stafford Show
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Maybe @Rossco(Iceman Josros)can advise think he had K series rims in his slabby at some point?
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After being stood for years I wouldn’t waste my time with anything else other than removing the carbs,fully strip,clean and rebuild with decent quality parts.
Then stick the carbs back on, balance and at this point start working your way through the possible low compression issues, these engines are pretty good even with some miles on them if they’ve been looked after over the years.
I took some carbs off my 1100K recently the bike still had an mot and was used a bit before I bought it and even this supposedly road worthy bike had the most shitted up carbs I’ve seen in years thanks to lack of use and modern ethanol content fuels.
Keyster normally do a good quality rebuild kit not cheap but decent quality you can get them from NRP in Manchester or contact Allen’s Performance in Notts for genuine mikuni spares. Worth spending the cash and taking your time you’ll find the bike will run 100% better afterwards, it won’t sort any potential engine issues out but is a step in the right direction.
Example of my 1100k’s float bowl with 30000 miles on would hardly run and leaked fuel out of the vac pipes plus most other of the rubber hoses
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I can confirm I can only do the Saturday due to travel on Sunday and can ride over on whatever is road worthy currently RGV or Slabbie as the K is in bits waiting on parts from Suzuki.
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BST38ss Carbs - emulsion tube o'ring
in Oil Cooled
Posted
As @Dezza says o ring as per red arrow no o ring on the other side,I’ve rebuilt many sets of these BST carbs.
The emulsion tube should be a very firm push fit to seat in the guide they should also be oriented in the guide in order to align with the peg in the carb body when fitted in order to seat correctly before then fitting and tightening the main jet.