Solcambs
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Posts posted by Solcambs
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On 3/11/2022 at 6:45 AM, busa ash said:
Get the recently aquired white one recovered ... that might be a 3rd option?
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Actually it would appear the relief valve on the GSXR is to by pass the cooler and allow high pressure oil (when cold) to still flow to the filter. Same difference. With the bandit sump on the GSXR the oil can flow direct to the sump. With the mod, there is a throttled bypass direct to the filter which I assume will work at all times!
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On 10/5/2019 at 5:52 AM, Lachie04 said:
So if you take it out then you will end up with a permanent (@ 10mm) bypass of the oil cooler, and reduced cooling.
if it works or not will not result in any oil restrictions as it bypasses directly into the inlet of the oil filter later models replace the relief valve with a permanent (@ 1mm) metered bypass)
The corresponding oilway in the lower case (well at least in my 750 89 case) is blocked so there is no way oil is going up (or down) there when the sump is bolted up to the case.
I actually corresponds with a gallery that appears to be a return (perhaps from the filter) that drops into the sump - if it is not blanked off on my 1100M the oil after the pressure regulator that should flow into the cooler disappears up that channel - so oil doesn't get to the cooler in as much quantity.
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I'm just going through this in reverse with the Bandit sump on a 91 GSXR. As far as I can see there is a permanent bypass that has been throttled down on the bandit sump (with a jet or rather a very small aperture). However, there is a part of that return that does not match the GSXR 91 and 92 bottom end that appears to need blocking off otherwise the main feed through and just past the regulator dumps pressure straight back to the sump and there's very little flow through the cooler. I'm in the process of refitting the sump to check whether it cures the temperature problems.
My view is that with your situation, you can just swop in the GSXR sump pre91, and the only difference is that there is not a permanent by-pass of the filer. This comes in when the pressure pushes the plunger back, and allows oil to flow through the by-pass. I assume this was there to protect against the eventuality that the filter is bunged up and creates a situation where oil doesn't flow well, and pressure increases.
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Yes ... I had the sump off today. I was baffled for a while with some GSXR based matching points (engine side) which turned out to be returns into the sump. However, on working it through, the blanked off bandit sump channel will no longer flow. This, mated to the GSXR, would have dumped pressure thorough that channel, and straight back into the sump. This together with the temp gauge I was running in that same oil gallery would of curtailed flow to the cooler - hence the increased temps. Instead the flow will go though to the cooler and also have a diversion past the filte via jetted down arrangement in the bandit sump. There will still be flow to the filter, and all should be good, This assumes I have read the oil flow correctly.
Alll said and done it's the diversion route that is affected, and should that be affected and not working, then pressure would build if the filter is not changed (filter gets bunged up). I change oil and filter regularly .. so no issue.
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So after lots of checking and and pondering it would seem that the GSXR (91&92) has a relief valve when pressure becomes too high - like when the oil filter becomes bunged up). This allows oil to flow and by-pass the oil filter. The Bandit has no relief valve, but allows a certain amount of oil to by-pass constantly via a reduced diameter feed you'll see below the marked hole. The different circuits mean that the marked oil way is superfluous when using the bandit sump on the GSX engine. So it's blanked it off by tapping and using a home made grub screw and loctited. As without that the main oil pressure is being dumped back into the sump through the oil cooler line and not up into the engine - so noticeable with an increase in temperature measured by the Yoshi temp gauge. At least this is my presumption. We'll see if the mod works. The alternative doesn't fil me with joy as it means that the Racefit exhaust built around the bandit sump will no longer fit if I have to use the GSX sump.
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I plan to fit a oil pressure gauge when I have a moment to check the oil is flowing correctly.
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@jonny1bumpand I were there Thursday and Friday. I wanted to stay over to have a gander, but had to be home - SWMBO had made it clear that 4 days of Cadwell was not on the cards.
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1 hour ago, CockneyRick said:
Done a swap on my drag bike (GSX1100F to B12) & AFAIK there's no problem
Only issue i had was the strainer mounts are different to take into account of the deep well moved to one side, so you must swap that too.
And again swapped for same reason as you!
Looking at the 1100F schematic - the holes are the same!
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1 hour ago, Dezza said:
I am also interested in the differences among the three different types of sump. What was your reason for using a Blandit 1200 sump on a GSXR 1100 slingshot motor in the first place? Do the Blandit/Slingshot sumps have the pressure release valve as does the 1100 slabside sump?
Purely to aid fitment of a 4-1 exhaust. That's the fallback position. Cut and weld the original GSXR1100 sump.
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So I've been concerned about the extra heat my 1216 has been recording on the yosh temp gauge ... I initially thought it was probably just the relocation of the temp sender (that's another story), but I decided to have a closer look at the part diagrams (see below). The gasket is the same ... but there is an additional oil way on the front right in the bandit motor which I assume does not match the GSXR motor.
I thought I best check the bandit sump I've swopped onto the GSXR1100M (91) and there were differences. So other than the oil strainer and the pickups I had thought this was a straight swop. On closer inspection the oil ways are subtly different. Is this to be expected (i.e. don't worry about it) or is it ... you stupid plonker you needed another bandit sump from [insert year here)? Any help appreciated. The GSXR sump shown in the photo came off the bike. The bandit sump is the one I swopped in.
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Getting there. So service done, immediate issues sorted? Sounds like you just need to install parts on route, and fire up?
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The 41s will be good for top end ... but IMHO will be a bugger to ride everyday at normal rpm ... My 1216 runs FCR39s ... flowed head, standard valves GSXR1100M motor. 70ftlbs at 3.5krpm climbing to 90 ftlbs at 6Krpm and 147-150hp (clutch slip at the time)
- + 4 degrees additional advance
- 106, 110 cam timing (or was it 105, 109?)
- dyna 2000 position 2,
- 10K rpm limit
Carbs FCR39
- 55 pilots
- 160 main jets
- EMP jet needles (clip @4)
- 200 main air jets
- 100 pilot air jets (1 turn out).
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19 hours ago, Racer-X said:
I run a cobra on my slabby 7/11, for mot's and for the noise test last year at cadwell I bent a tig rod round a metal scouring pad bought from londis and wedged it down the end can.... noise test past and remove with long nose pliers.... job done!
Be wary of doing that sort of thing at Cadwell nowadays - they have a drive by meters around the track, and can black flag you if you are too noisy. Donington is the worst by far. At least the chaps at Cadwell seem to be reasonable about allowing close to 105 dB if you are borderline.
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Having just gone the other way I have a sump and oil strainer, and tube somewhere from an 1100M.
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On 4/23/2019 at 9:40 PM, 370steve said:
might look to use that one for the pressure sensor, see about using one in the sump for the temp
I was using sump temp ... but swopped to front left oil way as the Bandit sump on the GSXR1100M engine now allows spaces to fit a temp sender there. Previously the frame made it impossible to fit one without dropping the sump off before fitting. Anyhow the sump reads about 5 degrees lower (I assume because it sit's in the breeze!) Jutmake sure you double check the Yoshi site for the correct sizing as the sump plug and oil gallery plugs vary across bikes.
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Cam cover bolts have arrived :o)
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I bought the APE cam bolts in the end.
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Looking fwd to the race report!
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31 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
Who says they are aluminium? Just says ltwt., so are potentially Ti - I'd rather Ti than two alloys slowly welding themselves together and then twisting the head off!
Good point well made! My point was that these bolts for the head are notorious for being capable of stripping threads. They even sell an oversize version. So having a soft version rather thatn a brittle one might be better for longevity. Either way ... off to order them.
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Ah ha ... problem solved ... https://www.suzukiperformancespares.co.uk/product-info.php?id=1046 I assume that these will do the job, and given that they are ally, won't foobar the thread like titanium etc. Anyone have negative experience of these before I order them.
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1 hour ago, Simbec1863 said:
I reckon I’d buy the cheaper option as long as it quotes OEM part no 0910607009
Cheers.
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So I have found a small weep from one of the cam cover bolts, and thought I'd swop them out. I noticed grumpy has some for sale on Eblag with an integral seal, which works out OK. Then noticed he has three listings. All with the same picture. Some at 59 for the G/H/J, some at 69 K/L/M and some at 79 K/L/M/N.
So I can get that the G/H/J might be different, but why would you have two listing with the same K/L/M and for ten quid more a K/L/M/N listing? I have an N head and I'm wondering why I would need to spend £10 more?
Any ideas?
Katana 1100 my old one, resto mod
in Air Cooled
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Brilliant .. glad it's found a deserving home. Doesn't look very clean against that swanky white paint.