Goo'Roo

I've started a new project on a gsxr1100 1987, with 18" 3spokes wheels, after my turbo gsx1100f. I was wondering how the hell can I fit a td05h turbocharger with external wg behind that big front wheel. From the trigger wheel to the front wheel axle I have 11cm less than my F and a bigger wheel. Any pics of turbo slabbies are welcome

Mmh, i thought they could be enough. Engine is a 1216 with ported M head and M cams, chargecooler and a pretty big turbocharger. I'm looking for a efr 6758, but the price at the moment is slowing everything down.

I've bought a MAXXECU mini for my bike, and it can command only 4 injectors. My target is to get 320-350cv with 100-102 commercial petrol. No E85 in Italy. Do you think that 550cc injectors are enough?

How much have you rised the rear wheel?

Ratio at the dogbones is between 2,5:1 and 3:1. If you shorten them so much you'll get 40-45mm at the wheel that's way too much. 5mm is more than enough for me.

Not anymore. I've started to use them again in my workshop since 3-4 years and I've never had that problem again.

Fuel pump I use is the same, but I always thought that could be a problem on the return side.

Aren't the quick releases too restrictive?

For tpi I guess you're talking about the tps. It doesn't fit. I'm going to shorten the butterfly shaft and fit a modern small one, or, If I won't be able to do it, I'll reverse the shaft and modify the throttle bodies to put it on the other side. The crossbar is going to be done in another way, or at least the frame will be braced.

I've built this dual chamber plenum with 34mm Gpz11 throttle bodies.

Me neither

Yes , a sort of oldskool H2sx killer..

Hello, I was thinking if they're necessary on a 1216cc busa pistons, stock everything else, low pressure td04-16 application. I'm building a turbo tourer based on a gsx1100f, aiming at max 200 wheel bhp.

Do you have 36mm carbs? With 34 should be much better, floats are much stronger and more stable

I'm running 16mm too. I've tried for months to find a solution to cure the rich spot when you spread the throttle at low revs with no solution. Working with harder springs, spring preload, lowering the float until possible, playing with needles position. The only thing I haven't done is to reduce the holes in the plastic slide inside the carbs. That should slow the very first opening keeping a much better response than with the harder springs. But I've cooked 2 pistons and 2 combustion chambers, and I'm going to fit a fuel injection because I'm sick of working on carbs

I'm comparing 1100M and gsf1200 gearboxes. They are similar, except for the double row bearing on the secondary shaft. 3rd and 4th gear on the 11m are slightly larger on the teeth (1-1,2mm) but share the same overall dimensions, so I consider them swappable at the moment. I have the same problem on 3rd and 4th gears on 3 gsf engines I had and on a customer one. I'll keep posting about that in the next days

Pivot in the last W is 25mm instead of 20 like in the 89. You have to make a sleeve to make it fit. All the other dimensions and shock position are compatible.

First value is for the cold viscosity. And if you compare tech sheets from a 10w40 and a 10w60 you'll see that cold viscosity changes also even if they share the same value. Just go on Motul internet site

Look at this official bike, the main oil cooler is for the head and sacs system. Weren't there some oil pressure issues with a big cooler?

10w40 and 10w60 have totally different viscosity when cold, even if they show the same value, with the 60 much thicker. Just check some tech sheets on the Motul site for example.

I do not agree completely. Yes of course keeping temps down is crucial, but there are some race oils formulated to cope with very high temps that help not to destroy your engine in severe conditions that can happen. Then fuel diluition with very rich afr is to be considered too with oil viscosity and capabilities. With a 10W60 race oil I'm only worried by the first minutes of engine working, not during operating temperatures. I live in Bologna, slow speed, mountain passes and very hot summer temps..

The bike is fine once cooled down. It runs pretty well until the oil is at 90/95° in the sump. After that it feels too hot. I need a second oil cooler and and intercooler. And a thicker oil to cope.

I'm not talking about performance. I have weird engine vibrations and the gearbox feels fragile when the oil reading is just 100°.

I need to understand why a so high quality oil feels out of specs..

On my turbo Gsx1100F I have a sensor on the sump drain plug. I have the feeling that the temperature read is to low. Driving hard on a mountain pass the temperature reached just 100° on a Motul 300V 10w40 but the engine sounds like it was really too hot, with increase of vibrations and gearbox issues. Where do you read the oil temp? I thought to add a second sensor to the engine head oil feed and change to some thicker race oil like a 10w60 (Motul has a 15w50 300v) I defo need a second oil cooler to the head too.