Crass
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Posts posted by Crass
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Not a Suzook I'm working on but it's a generic question applicable to anything and I value OSS advice rather than the wibbling of so-called experts elsewhere. Replacing a cylinder block, no problem with the old bores themselves, engine not burning any oil so bores /rings in good condition. New block bores are also within standard size and freshly honed. Any need to replace the rings on the original motor or just leave alone and fit the replacement block? I assume you only need to replace the rings if worn out, if within spec you can reuse?
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Dremel with care so they are almost cut through then drift out from the other end. They'll just be mullered but the weakness caused by cutting will break them out.
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On 8/29/2022 at 11:18 AM, Dezza said:
Diverging from the point but keeping with the cost-effectiveness theme, it may make more sense to first upgrade a Blandit's suspension and brakes, and to remove some excess mass before spending a whole load on engine upgrades.
Indeed. People always think you need more power to go faster when in fact you usually need the thing to go round corners, not tie itself in knots on the bumpy bits, and stop faster. Unless you're building a drag bike.
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On 3/10/2022 at 7:52 AM, imago said:
Just taking the Mick. 'Hipster' bikes aren't to my taste, but you often spot some nice ideas and quality work on them for inspiration. The problem comes when something is fashionable and gets done to death, street fighters, cafe racers, trackers etc etc.
No, the problem comes when something becomes fashionable and the price goes through the roof so making things unaffordable for people without money to burn who actually want to ride things.
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Any torque setting quoted in a manual is always with dry threads unless specifically stated to the contrary. As a rule of thhumb reduce the torque setting of a greased thread by one third but there is absolutely no reason to lubricate cam cap bolt threads. They are not going to be exposed to the elements so should never seize in. Plus any lubricant will be trapped in a blind hole so may crack the alloy when it boils off and expands as a trapped gas. Keep the bolts and the hole dry before torquing.
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No, mine hasn't got those rubber inserts.
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22 hours ago, Upshotknothole said:
This is a mostly stock 750 with pods on the carbs. The tube that plugs into the cross member on the frame and blows over the top of the carbs I always suspected was more for cooling the area around the carbs than anything. Airbox I’d think would be drawing from the cooler air around the rear wheel/battery area. But like I said, it’s been years since I’ve ran full plastics.
No, I don't think that's correct. The pipe feeds into the cross member and there are exit holes on the rear side of it. The airbox top butts up to the underside of the cross member, so the air does not reach the carb tops but rather flows along the top of the airbox and feeds to the intake at the rear. It gives a flow of direct, cool air to the airbox inlet which would otherwise have to rely on hot air which has been blown back off the engine. Even with the airbox removed you are still getting a flow of dense, cool air to the pod inlet area although things will not be working quite as they were designed to do with the airbox removed.
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They do come up in the for sale section on here in decent nick. I'd be tempted to wait and see if you can pick another one up. If you know how much it's out by you can live with it in the meantime. Would be the cheaper option.
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Well one of the pipes directs cool air onto the cylinder head area, so on a bike with no water cooling and relying to a certain extent on air cooling I would regard that as advantageous. Otherwise it it trapped behind the large headstock casting receiving some air which has previously heated up by passing through the oil cooler. The second pipe delivers cool air to the airbox, which otherwise has to get its supply from the hot air blown off the engine. Again, I would expect that to be beneficial.
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Interesting. I don't see how you're going to get the speedo recalibrated. Apart from the difficulty in finding someone to do the work and the considerable expense involved, the speedos are not designed to be opened up and have no obvious means of external adjustment. If the speedo is faulty replacement would ne a far simpler option. If the drive is faulty, ditto.
I suspect the speedo is faulty as from your photo the needle does not appear to be resting on the stop with the bike stationary.
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Might be worth just checking you have the right front end in, particularly the wheel diameter. Or alternatively that you have a stock front tyre in, which should be a 120/70 ZR17. If the tyre height is different the speedo will not read true. For example, if you've got a 120/60 in there the speedo will read too high because the tyre is not so tall, hence it has to spin round quicker at a given speed like a smalle wheel does. Or put another way, when it's spinning round at an indicated speed the true speed is lower because the speedo is designed for a 70 profile tyre.
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On 6/23/2021 at 9:03 PM, PanzerWomble said:
Anyone know if Squires is still run by Bill ?
Not been there for many a year although used to live a few miles away when it was at Sherburn village still.
No it isn't. Very far from being anything like the place it was but still popular by those whose taste buds have been removed.
Seriously guys, those who are going do take it steady. N Yorks plod target the roads for miles around with speed vans, marked and unmarked cars and bikes. Used to go but now I just avoid, too much hassle, like most of N Yorks.
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As usual with electrics it could be any one of several things which have a bearing on the particular fault. There isn't much point anyone randomly suggesting stuff, the only way to sort it is to work through a process of elimination of all the ignition circuit components.
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On 6/30/2021 at 10:36 AM, wsn03 said:
The indicators come on, open blink then just stay on
Usually indicates a high resistance in the circuit as this is exactly what happens if a bulb blows. Can also do it if the bulb fittings are corroded and have a high resistance. If the new relay doesn't sort it you might want to take the lenses off the indicators and have the bulbs out of the fittings for a looksee. If there is corrosion in there cleaning up with wet and dry and spraying with WD40 should get things going again.
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Do a search on Robinsons Foundry website. If they are still available new you will see them there and can order a set.
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One thing I have found invaluable when restoring a bike I haven't owned from new, so therefore don't know how complete it is, is to get hold of the microfiches. If you Google Alphasports they have the fiches for all Suzooks and you will find those essential.
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1 hour ago, Dezza said:
I still do not understand how you get from gear ratios, final drive reductions and the circumferance of the tyre in inches to mph per 1000 revs without including figures for the primary drive reduction and a conversion of inches into miles
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Are you a maths teacher Dezza?
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TBH I'd be inclined to grind the shite off that swinger and get a smooth finish, fill any holes with weld and finish smooth, then get it powdercoated. It's certainly salvageable and would turn out very nice with care in the prep.
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FWIW as regards quality, I had a worn set of stock 750L cams reground to OEM spec and rehardened by KENT Cams and I was very happy with the work. Several thousand miles of street use later and no problems.
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Hi. Even those that initially look standard on closer inspection aren't. Standard is for show ponies or for those who enjoy exploring the inside of hedges
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I'm going to update this now that I have chance to investigate this issue properly, in case it helps anyone else in future.
The rattle is being caused by wear in the spherical bearing in the assembly, component #7 on the fiche. This clips through the retaining ring #5 and wear in the plastic between the two faces of the clip surface is allowing the ring to move ~1mm.
Theoretically you could replace the bearing, they are still available and cheap enough, but my concern was with dismantling everything to do this and possibly breaking other age-fragile plastic clips. Also no guarantee that the new bearing will be snug if the clip surface has worn too. My solution was to poke a little silicone sealant between the bearing surface and the clip - once it sets to a rubberised finish it should secure everything elastically but allow future removal if ever necessary. Actually I used plumbing joint sealer but anything like this will do.
Is it worth bothering? - up to you if you have a set of these lights but personally I don't like anything electrical rattling or vibrating non-elastically as it usually ends in fractures, failures and an expensive ball-ache, so an easy job so why risk the hassle?
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There's no problem Dezza, both sides of the road have very long laybyes. Loads of bikes and cars park up easily.
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Obviously Covid put paid to the planned bike nights this year so far but the 16 September one is now going ahead.
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Personally, irrespective of the instructions on the filter, I'm with Dezza. Tight as I can get it by hand then nip it up with a filter wrench no more than a quarter turn, probably less.
Replace piston rings or not?
in Oil Cooled
Posted
So it'd be a good idea to measure the ring gaps in the new bores and if well within the wear limit reuse?