Oilyspanner
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Posts posted by Oilyspanner
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The 1000 K7/8 are just 3mm longer than stock, although the spring is a bit stiff, the earlier 1000's are 20mm longer and will raise the rear 2 inches, so really need longer suspension link rods/dog bones to drop it down to keep the bike balanced. The GSXR600/750 K6 - L0 shocks are 315/320mm long and work well - any newer and they changed the lower mount from clevis /fork end to single eye. TBH many shocks can be made to fit and work better than a clapped out shock, but one fairly similar in length, stroke length and spring rating will work best. Modern shocks almost always mean moving the battery box to clear the reservoir.
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There's plenty of oil flow around the engine, but keeping it cool can be a problem when used continuously hard. A second cooler is the best way to go as per several posts on here in the past - I like the oil cooler from a gsxr1000 mounted below the original cooler method - neat and does the job. Linking the higher pressure system to the lower pressure (the cooling system) isn't the best idea - liquid/gases will always take the path of least resistance, so the net result will be to lower the higher pressure system, which is used for the bearings etc !! - better to use synthetic and extra cooler. A few track regulars on here use this method to help control the heat, it works.
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That's good going with a 1109/1127 engine - about 150hp ! Have you got the dyno graph ? - would be good to see how the engine combo makes it's power. What size valves does your head have ? The only problem with going to larger carbs is losing power below peak and having a 5 speed gearbox - normally oilers go for wide torque band, then you never really fall out of the power. Have you got photos of your machine it sounds a great project Manden.
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What have you done to your head ? hard to get the heads to work well at a true 12000 rpm on 1127/1186/1216/1246 etc without a huge amount of work - it was done for some extreme drag engines in the 1990s. Maybe best to get a billet crank if you've got repositioned ports, loads of porting and big valves etc - costs loads to replace. Standard tacho reads about 12000 revs a limiter - shows 10800 revs on dyno then hits the limiter.
Are you road racing your bike ? sounds an interesting build !
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dot head comes from short stroke 750 o/c engine - has 'dot' as per Swiss - same size valves as 1100/1157, smaller combustion chamber volume for a bump up in compression ratio (always good for more torque) - they have higher entry from inlet port to valve (helps a bit too).
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Coming along nicely Mr FBOB. Don't mind doing top-ends, but don't like doing gearboxes, don't do them often enough I suppose … bet I'll lose 2nd gear now ..
Didn't think long enough about chimp's hands - I did watch them for ages at Monkey World (shouldn't that be Ape World - although they do have monkeys - they have Lemurs too, which aren't really monkeys - Primate World ?!), they've got very long hands and a very small thumb - dexterity did seem a problem, picking small things up … thumb is out of line with the other digits though and works across the palm - sorry Dezza !
p.s. looking forward to seeing Super Teapot doing Castle Coombe in the dry - I got confused watching your videos, as I haven't been to CC since they put the chicanes in - I wondered where the hell I was going a couple times !
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when(if) its running i think ill go back to aldershot and give the previous owner a good slap..what a chimp!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I reckon a chimp would've looked after the bike better than that, especially if offered a decent selection of fruit to do a good job . . . . even allowing for the non-opposable thumbs, which would makes things a bit fiddly ! At least you'll know the engine will be decent at the end of this - or is the top-end scored !
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To help the sprocket carrier slip on ? Can spray a bit of ACF50 on the cush rubbers, or wipe some synthetic grease on the s. carrier engagement sections - or between the rubbers. They don't need lube to work - in fact it's a bad idea to let them move more easily, you want them to lock into place. Suzuki cush rubbers are pretty good, some other makes of the time destroyed the rubbers in no time - zzr1100 was very good at this.
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That'll do it !
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Loose bolt sits under the strainer for ages, the head rubs the mesh enough to cause fatigue, gets drawn into pump and jams the pump - causing mucho damage ? As Dunc says, excess pressure required to make aluminium explode would've made almost everything else let go first - has to be solid, mechanical block/jam - I used to watch Columbo !
This is a good thread Mr Bandit ! - not so good for the pump mechanism mind ……..
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The cams should have 41C on them, these are full power ones, anything else won't be. Euro 1127 M/N engines numbers will start with V711 ……. silencers should have 41C0 on them.
I think Californian models had pair system on them, as Capt'n says.
The previous owner could've partly derestricted the bike, I don't think an 84hp engine could pull more than 230kph, even on original clocks.
40mm cv carbs need an airbox to work well and give a linear power curve, smaller carbs will help lower range pick-up. The 40mm carbs work really well on a big bore, flowed engine - but still with the airbox - I tried all sorts to make dual filters work and the power curve was still very lumpy - fitted the airbox, altered the jetting and it makes better power and far more torque everywhere. The 36mm carbs works well without an airbox.
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Is that the engine from your Super Teapot ? - hope cases are okay
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Primary is the same as 1127R - 1.565 - all the ratios are the same bar final I think.
Don't know what std B12 final is.
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Reckon HiFlo for the old girl then ! thanks for the feed-back …. used to get the filters at pretty much cost, don't now so HiFlo all the way from now.
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I've always used genuine oil filters on my Suzukis over the years, have used other makes on other bikes - but I read this old comparison on some filters. I might fit HiFlo at the next change, I've used them on other bikes with no problems at all, but this info confirms their quality. They've got TuV approval now on all their range, which is rigorous and it confirms they're at least as good as standard units - they're a hell of a lot cheaper too. I haven't found any more recent comparisons or tests, but they're fairly basic, but need to be well made, with good filtration and a good pressure release valve - probably like many I change the oil and filter more often than needed - every 1500 miles ish, I don't think there's any risk at all - unless someone knows different ?!
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And 38s on 750 L and M
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Had to replace the seals on both m/cylinder and slave on mine early this year - caused slight drag, not such nice engagement etc - all sweet now. I had changed the fluid and bled the system, but it didn't make much difference - so I changed the seals, lovely gear change at low speeds again. I'm not sure about the noises though, my main problems were the dragging and poor gear selection around town etc.
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1 hour ago, manden said:
it dyno´d 152/123 on a happy dyno
That's a lot of torque down low....or 152/153 hp ? Yep, always better to keep the front sprocket as large as possible, it abuses the links less. I bought a fairly cheap JT x ring chain, it wore a bit early on, but it rarely needs adjusting now.....in fact I want it to wear more, then I'll swap it for a 525 and sprockets !
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Good point CliveGTO ! a quality 525 chain is used by most modern 1000cc sportsters too I think - so more than able.
I use a 530 chain on mine, I was concerned about the ally rear sprocket wearing out too quickly if I went smaller - 530s don't wear too much - do 525 ally sprockets stand up to general use okay ? - not wanting to go off topic, but it sort off goes hand in hand with chain size.
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To convert the 750 to clip-ons above top yoke needs the higher top fairing , bracket/headlight and side fairings too - else the higher bars will hit the fairing. There are some clip-ons that mount under the top yoke, but give some lift, 50mm, if these fit okay that might be a solution. The 1100 is torquey and the 750 very revvy - I wouldn't mind an oil cooled 884cc GSXR though, would be worth the crouch and achy wrists
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I've got 2 JMT Li batteries Jp85, had them a few years now, never a problem - maybe there was a charging problem with smoking battery ? KTM use the JMT Li batteries on some of their bikes, if there was a problem they'd drop them I think - plus there will be many thousands in use to get good feedback/or bad feedback if they weren't good. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another when the next lead/acid battery dies.
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Cheers Clive ! go info.
I think it's just the time/money it would take to lighten the forged pistons - forged pistons are stronger than cast ones and can be made to be lighter/ of the extra strength - 10 % extra weight over standard is a lot, it'll eat into the safety margin built in by Suzuki - I know it's just the way Iam, but it just grates on me knowing the pistons could be made to add no extra stress on rods/bearings and crank, instead they'll remove a chunk of safety margin at peak revs, then you have to spend more money on upgrading your crank to get some margin back...
Here's the photo of the Wossner pistons that got me interested.
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Wiseco 80mm and 81mm 12:1 seem to be much the same avg. 315.6 incl. gudgeon pin (78g) + rings 15.4 g = 331g ….. bare piston 237.6g avg. - haven't got retainer clip weight.
Std 78mm 10:1 pistons with rings and g.pin (71g) = 299.8g avg incl one g.pin clip. Bare piston 213g.
JE pistons - from their figures - bare piston both 80mm and 81mm 234g - listed as 13:1 comp. ratio …..their 82mm piston is listed as 238g (1246cc kit)
Unfortunately Nick Pepper hasn't replied yet, said he had another batch coming in a couple of weeks ago and he'd weigh one and get back to me - I've been in touch since, but nothing, could've been good for Wossner if they were 15/20g lighter than the American pistons, that would be a big reduction in force at high revs.
So sorry this thread's landed on it's ass ! thought it'd be useful info for anyone going through their top-end - if anything happens I'll update this thread
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The main difference is the longer forks on the 1100's and the clip-ons mounted above the top yoke, which make it more comfortable than the racer crouch of the 750. The difference between Slingshot frames isn't like Slabbies, where the frame is a lot lighter. The smallest Slingshot frames are the 750K/J models (had the shorter, short stroke motor) - the 1100M/N models have a wider more comfortable seat. I find my 1100N quite comfortable, a comfortable slouched position ! Using after market clip-ons allows you to angle the bars the way you feel most comfortable. My bike earns it's living as a sports bike, but is equally happy cruising along back lanes.
db killer recommendations
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Probably running rich on the needle and mains now with the bung in the silencer. My bike didn't like the db killer when I fitted it, ran rich everywhere, worse with revs. Could go down a couple of sizes on the mains and drop the needles a notch and see if it at least runs cleanly . . . then swap back after the t.day ?