Oilyspanner
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Posts posted by Oilyspanner
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If anyone is fitting some 80/81/82mm wossner pistons to their gsxr1100, could you please weigh the piston and gudgeon pin. I'm thinking of building another engine and would like to use the wossner pistons if they're closer to standard weight than the other options. I emailed Wossner direct and received a nice reply, but the details still lacked the average weight !
Thanks in hope
Oily
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Your head and vision problems maybe due to the open carbs, even with foam filters, my flatslide carbs are deafening above half throttle and 6k revs - earplugs are a must for spirited rides. You could check all the engine mounts for tightness as well as the other suggestions.
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Performance Bikes tested the mk1 at around 70/ 72 lbft on several bikes - they normally tested bikes at bsd which is a realistic dyno. The earlier bikes responded better to a pipe, later bikes had to respond to tougher emissions laws and didn't respond so well. There wasn't much in it when you tested mk1 and 2 as std - massively different....no, 30Nm ? absolutely not !
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6 hours ago, BikeJake said:
Fan on cooler?
In warmer countries I know some owners have managed to fit a fan with a manual switch, apparently with some success. I believe these helped draw air through the cooler, but any air movement around the barrels helps too.
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found the photo of when I was shaping the windows. I remember Suzuki saying they helped the gsxr1000k3 gain about 3hp (in crankcase on modern engines).
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I'm a bit late on this one ! G1460 has said it all really. Did it on mine, partly to help pumping losses and partly to reduce the amount of air shoved around the cases. It can't hurt, it probably helps a bit and it's easy enough to do. I tried to find an old photo of mine, showing the windows on 1 and 2, 3 and 4 facing each other, it must be on my old laptop ?!
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As above and :
The only problem with big bore, high compression Oilers is heat build up in traffic. The fairing lowers on a gsxr make it worse, on a naked or 1/2 faired bike it wouldn't be so bad - a larger oil cooler would help a bit, but both the cooler and engine need air flowing through/around them.
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On 8/6/2022 at 2:28 PM, Nick said:
Thanks. Strangely enough, the brand new DJ stage 1 kit didn't come with replacement tubes and there is no mention in the instructions of them - the DJ jets just thread into the mikuni tubes. Odd, because I was always led to believe that DJ used their own emulsion tubes, but clearly they have changed.
I believe it's too rich on the needle, as lowering (as in putting the clip in the higher slots) it helps with the 3.5 - 5k stumble and bogging. Trouble is, lowering it also kills the 6k + acceleration.
When you had a K&N, were you using the less restrictive airbox ring?
It ticks over ok and revs cleanly from idle, but when riding it, the issue becomes apparent. I've also tried raising the needle but that was fouling plugs, which leads me to think the MJ is possibly too large in the first place...
The kit didnt come with pilots and i've left the stockers in there.
Sorry for the delay, I've been fiddling about on another little project. My k and n was fitted when I bought the bike and a previous owner had hacked around the inlet with a knife !! I trimmed a yoghurt pot and siliconed it in the inlet, this gave a 50mm orifice and a radius going into it.
It sounds like you may need to go up a size on the pilots, but if the idle and gentle cruise are okay, leave it until you have enough time to remove the carbs again - it's a bit of a pain removing them with the airbox.
If you can find a decent setting with DJ needles and std e.tubes don't question it ! Dj needles have a different taper to the std needles, so probably will go rich quickly. Go with what the engine likes, I wasted a fair bit of time over thinking the jetting. Also make sure the engine is fully up to temperature when settling on the jetting, several times I thought I'd sorted everything and then went on a long ride and my 'wonderful ' carburation... wasn't so great.
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most of your running will be on the needles, if you've got a stable tickover and a half decent needle position you can ride it and figure out if any of the circuits need to be leaner or richer. I take it the dynojet kit came with needs and emulsion tubes ? if you use their needles, you have to use their emulsion tubes and vice versa, else it's near impossible to tune.
Altering needle position is pretty easy, try a notch higher and lower, the engine should like one or the other more. Early in my ownership I had a k and N in the airbox and an Akra - I used 130 mains, std needles lifted 1 notch and pilot mixture screws out an extra half a turn..... obviously you have a DJ kit so sizes will be different, but the process will be similar. The good thing about using an Akra is that you know they're developed to deliver a smooth delivery, so that's one known, it won't be at fault.
Does the bike run okay at any revs and throttle ?
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I'm well in my 50s and still a hooligan at heart, more considerate these days, but my bike is a bad influence
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An oil cooled engine won't pull 10800 in top.....unless it's very low, they drop away after 10k.
The point of mph/1000 revs is that you can work out what would work for your engine, where the torque is, revs at cruise speeds etc. Our engines are vibey around 5,500 rpm, so it's good to avoid that. A 16 mph per 1000 top gear gives 80 mph at 5000 revs - relatively relaxed and away from the worst of the buzz. Road gearing is a compromise and depends what you want, acceleration, or more relaxed cruising.
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Just got back from helping my elderly parents. I've just realised that the primary drive will be the same, not changed to 750r - this would make more sense .... 1.565:1 not 1.74:1
15:48 gives, 6th 148mph 1st 58mph at 10800 revs
But Joseph's 16 : 43 looks really good
1st 6.44 mph/1000 revs 69.6mph
6th 16.31 mph/1000revs 176.24 mph at 10,800 revs
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Forgot to add, definitely don't use 14/48 !!!!!
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Have just done some calculator work, using Joseph's ratios and a tyre circumference of 79 inches.
16:43 final drive gives 1st gear 5.8 mph/1000 rev = 62.64 at 10,800 revs
6th gear 14.68 mph/1000 = 158.54 at 10,800. The speedo would read more than this.
Std 1127r 5th gear is 16.15 mph/1000 revs by comparison.
If you can fit a 17t front sprocket with a 43 rear = 6th 15.59 mph/1000 & 168 mph
1st = 6.15 mph/1000 & 66.51 at rev limiter
It's not worth doing the other ratios as they'll be closer than the std box anyway.
Depends what you want ?
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As sago has said - you need to work out at what throttle. Here's what I did to know which percent of opening I was using, I rubbed some of the markings off while testing, but you get the idea.
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Makes sense, standard parts are expensive, not renewing them goes some way to paying for the rs carbs. The rs36 carbs are easier to set up and parts are readily available
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I've spent several years peeing around with the needles, worn needle jets/emulsion tubes etc. My findings back up what G1460 said.
You need spacers that hold the needles central and within spec carb slide guides, mine were worn, too much slop and the needle will be moving all over the place, causing wear and incorrect fuel monitoring. You'll notice a 0.05 mm difference on the needle/needle jet orifice gap.
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If you can see that the emulsion tubes are oval, they'll be pretty far gone. You can drop the needles down to offset the richness caused - I've done this a couple of times, even gone down a pilot jet size because it caused problems there too.
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A bit late on this one.....did some thinking on this one a while ago : particularly on a faired bike, at speed you have high pressure on forward facing surfaces, but down the sides there's a drop in pressure. At high speed the engine requires large amounts of air, which further lowers the pressure within the bodywork..this would muck up fuelling that seems fine on a static dyno, so any air that can be fed from the high pressure area towards the air intake is a good thing..it lessens the potential losses at high speeds.
Engines don't drag air in, they lower the pressure within them and it's the far higher surrounding pressure that rushes in to balance the pressure imbalance...if the surrounding air pressure is lowered, engine efficiency drops too.....so the tubes do help !
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The info is already in this thread - but one thing that's wrong is that 40c0 is gsxr1100 k and l, 41c0 is 1100m and n models - usa m and n used the earlier 40c0 inlet manifolds, as they kept the 36mm bst carbs instead of using the 40mm bst carbs like the rest of the world market. The dot heads used different shaped inlet manifolds, so ones from other models don't line up so well..at least as standard.
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9 hours ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
Yup thats right the yanks were a year late.
Wish we were a year late too !
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I've got an old GS650GT whose inlet manifolds are hard, I'm going to soak them in an oil of wintergreen (methyl salicylate)/ isopropyl alcohol mix for a couple of days - this rejuvenates the rubber, it's been used by some people I trust, so should work fine.
My 1100N's carbs have been off so many times the rubber hasn't had chance to think about toughening up ! I often put a thin layer of rubber grease on the rubber, this may help stop the aging process a bit.
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The 1990 and 1991 750s have an extra row compared to the 1100s - the taller 1100 engine doesn't have as much space above the headers because of it's longer stroke. This also tells us the frames of those years are the same size.
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I wanted to know how to work it out, so I could understand it myself ......my wife's a maths teacher too, there's no hope !
Wossner pistons
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Thanks HWB, unfortunately I've got the Wiseco weight, but thanks anyway Bud