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Posts posted by Oilyspanner

  1. I bought a set of 81mm Wossner pistons,  the pistons are only 3 or 4 grams lighter,  but the design has a short gudgeon pin, saving a lot of weight , steel being much heavierthan aluminium - saves around 18 grams  !   The rings and wire clips are very similar,  so over 20 grams saving over my Wiseco 80mm piston assemblies, very worthwhile,  giving the crank , bearings,  conrods etc an easier time at high revs.

    Now I've got to balance the set, the only negative is that one piston is 0.9 g heavier than the lightest, I can balance them though. Overall very happy.



    • Like 3
  2. Hi Panos.....saw you had a number of swingarms, could you please weigh them and post the figures  ? I've always believed that the Slingshot arm was lighter than the braced ones. You've probably fitted the 750 by now, but any info would be good. Cheers mate 


  3. There were a few bikes in the early 2000s that used similar spec stick coils. I've heard that the R6 used a similar spec too. I plumped for the early K series coils as I knew they worked. Converted mine many years back (8 or 9 years)and they've worked very well. My bike's had high compression pistons etc for 5 years and covered 12/13000 miles and the spark seems to coped well with that. Turbo and nitrous probably not though.

    • Like 1
  4. i forgot how annoying microsoft laptops can be ! Had it as a pdf, but swapped it to a jpeg -hope it comes out okay....



    Sorry Wraith, I saved the 1st page the right way up, but when I brought it to the page it was upside down...


    • Like 5
  5. It's a few years since I converted mine to stick coils, but I seem to remember that the resistance on 98, 99 srad wasn't suitable.  The k1 to k4 R coils work out very close to 3 ohms when linked in series. There's other makes with the correct resistance coils, Triumph daytona 600 and 650, Kawasaki zx6r...but I don't know which years. 

    If I fire up my old laptop I'm pretty sure I've got the diagram from practical sportsbikes.....which is what I used to do mine.

    • Like 1
  6. I'm on 104 on each, this gives a very good spread of torque on my engine - have tried a couple of settings. Mine gives nice torque to 3k and very strong from 4k. Lower numbers should loose low down power, but add a bit to the top-end and vice versa. The inlet cam has a much greater effect when moved. Standard cams seem best in a small window, 103 to 105 degrees on the inlet....that's just what feels best and is very close to factory settings....they definitely knew what they were doing !

    • Like 3
  7. 12 hours ago, DAZ said:

    It quite possibly could have been you ,I've come back to OSS for some inspiration after a few years of modern bike misery , chopping and changing and still unhappy with the modern white goods experience(they work perfectly well but have no character) and have read loads .btw read @370steveefe build and he used wossner 1246 pistons maybe he has some paperwork or something:|

    Old Suzukis are great to own, especially if you choose one that suits you, you can upgrade them and they're brilliant to ride (y)

  8. On 12/28/2022 at 1:28 PM, DAZ said:

    I can't help with the weight of the wossner pistons,but I do vaguely recall that someone ( not sure if it was on here or not ) had some thin walled tool steel gudgeon pins turned to help reduce the weight of the pistons they were fitting to nearer that of a std piston, sorry to be so vague but it was something I read that may or may not help and I have slept since reading about this idea and may not have it 100% correct,

    Hi Daz - that might've been me !  I've got Wiseco pistons in my bike and found out the gudgeon pins were heavier than stock, although the std ones are 3mm longer and needed trimming at each end. I don't know why there's nothing published anywhere on the wossner piston weight - you can find the American pistons with a bit of digging around O.o

    • Like 1
  9. On 12/25/2022 at 8:27 PM, HWB said:

    I have a set of wiseco 81mm laying around i know you said wossner but maybe ? 

    Thanks HWB, unfortunately I've got the Wiseco weight, but thanks anyway Bud (y)

    • Like 1
  10. If anyone is fitting some 80/81/82mm wossner pistons to their gsxr1100, could you please weigh the piston and gudgeon pin. I'm thinking of building another engine and would like to use the wossner pistons if they're closer to standard weight than the other options. I emailed Wossner direct and received a nice reply, but the details still lacked the average weight  !

    Thanks in hope


  11. Your head and vision problems maybe due to the open carbs,  even with foam filters, my flatslide carbs are deafening above half throttle and 6k revs - earplugs are a must for spirited rides.  You could check all the engine mounts for tightness as well as the other suggestions. 

  12. Performance Bikes tested the mk1 at around 70/ 72 lbft on several bikes - they normally tested bikes at bsd which is a realistic dyno. The earlier bikes responded better to a pipe, later bikes had to respond to tougher emissions laws and didn't respond so well. There wasn't much in it when you tested mk1 and 2 as std - massively different....no, 30Nm ? absolutely not ! 

  13. 6 hours ago, BikeJake said:

    Fan on cooler? 

    In warmer countries I know some owners have managed to fit a fan with a manual switch,  apparently with some success.  I believe these helped draw air through the cooler, but any air movement around the barrels helps too. 

  14. I'm a bit late on this one ! G1460 has said it all really.  Did it on mine, partly to help pumping losses and partly to reduce the amount of air shoved around the cases. It can't hurt, it probably helps a bit and it's easy enough to do. I tried to find an old photo of mine, showing the windows on 1 and 2, 3 and 4 facing each other, it must be on my old laptop ?!

  15. As above and :

    The only problem with big bore, high compression Oilers is heat build up in traffic. The fairing lowers on a gsxr make it worse, on a naked or 1/2 faired bike it wouldn't be so bad - a larger oil cooler would help a bit, but both the cooler and engine need air flowing through/around them.

  16. On 8/6/2022 at 2:28 PM, Nick said:

    Thanks.  Strangely enough, the brand new DJ stage 1 kit didn't come with replacement tubes and there is no mention in the instructions of them - the DJ jets just thread into the mikuni tubes.  Odd, because I was always led to believe that DJ used their own emulsion tubes, but clearly they have changed.

    I believe it's too rich on the needle, as lowering (as in putting the clip in the higher slots) it helps with the 3.5 - 5k stumble and bogging.  Trouble is, lowering it also kills the 6k + acceleration.

    When you had a K&N, were you using the less restrictive airbox ring?

    It ticks over ok and revs cleanly from idle, but when riding it, the issue becomes apparent.  I've also tried raising the needle but that was fouling plugs, which leads me to think the MJ is possibly too large in the first place...

    The kit didnt come with pilots and i've left the stockers in there.



    Sorry for the delay, I've been fiddling about on another little project. My k and n was fitted when I bought the bike and a previous owner had hacked around  the inlet with a knife !!  I trimmed a yoghurt pot and siliconed it in the inlet, this gave a 50mm orifice and a radius going into it. 

    It sounds like you may need to go up a size on the pilots, but if the idle and gentle cruise are okay, leave it until you have enough time to remove the carbs again - it's a bit of a pain removing them with the airbox.

    If you can find a decent setting with DJ needles and std e.tubes don't question it !  Dj needles have a different taper to the std needles,  so probably will go rich quickly. Go with what the engine likes, I wasted a fair bit of time over thinking the jetting.  Also make sure the engine is fully up to temperature when settling on the jetting,  several times I thought I'd sorted everything and then went on a long ride and my 'wonderful ' carburation... wasn't so great.

    • Like 1
  17. most of your running will be on the needles, if you've got a stable tickover and a half decent needle position you can ride it and figure out if any of the circuits need to be leaner or richer. I take it the dynojet kit came with needs and emulsion tubes ? if you use their needles, you have to use their emulsion tubes and vice versa, else it's near impossible to tune.

    Altering needle position is pretty easy, try a notch higher and lower, the engine should like one or the other more. Early in my ownership I had a k and N in the airbox and an Akra - I used  130 mains, std needles lifted 1 notch and pilot mixture screws out an extra half a turn..... obviously you have a DJ kit so sizes will be different, but the process will be similar. The good thing about using an Akra is that you know they're developed to deliver a smooth delivery, so that's one known, it won't be at fault. 

    Does the bike run okay at any revs and throttle ?

    • Like 1
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