eddiegsx

That's correct wraith, but for one offs I'm sure they like to have the bike at their workshop . I think I'm right in saying the OP is from the USA. Just for the record, my racefit was already on the bike when I bought it, no deep pockets in my life.

I have a bespoke racefit system on my bandit, they produce a very high quality product. Having said that, not sure how much research you've carried out but if you buy the growler you sent the link for you won't get a complete system just link pipe and silencer. With the hindle you get the complete system, hope this helps. Looking forward to seeing the build

Didnt even realise that you could get 1200 bandits on an M plate, I dont think ive ever seen one until now.

Looks very presentable, amazing what is achievable without throwing tons of money at a project.

I may be corrected but was told by someone in the industry close to the spondon setup, the extrusion that is used for that style of spondon arm was manufactured to spondon's own specification therefore cannot be replicated to that exact spec. I know you can get similar styles so maybe it's bull, but the same person was saying that when spondon ceased trading the extrusion they had left in stock was sent for scrap. How much went through the back door I wonder?

No! Can I buy it for mine? On a serious note I don't know but if you're shifting it on I'd be interested

Proper weapon that JB. I see you're from North Wales, hopefully see you out and about when we are released onto the roads

It's gone very quiet

Seems to make sense to me Joseph, my days of high speeds are behind me now[cops and speed cameras... } and a lighter bike suddenly has more appeal! more low down grunt is never a bad thing either

I haven't a clue whether or not there's a difference to power output, my observation was tongue in cheek TBH, only when Clive mentioned the smaller bore of the TI pipes that made me wonder if there's a drop in horses that some of us pay huge money to release. I have a set of k1 headers and was toying with the idea myself, even with my limited engineering skills I could make them fit after reading some of the novel methods used to bend them into submission.

So what you're saying is who gives a shit if you loose a few horses as long as I loose it without spending too much!!. Even I'll have to work that one out.

All this precision engineering's blowing my mind. Is the smaller bore a disadvantage?

People have their own ideas when it comes to "modifying" good job we are all different I suppose, but as you said, there's no mileage in cutting them off as you always have the option of refitting the original airbox.

Can't really get decent pics but hope these are helpful. From the edge of the cross rail of the subframe to the rear of the airbox is 20mm(pic3) to the centre of the hole, measuring from the top of the frame rail to the top of the airbox bracket is 30mm, Give that a go.

Im popping to my lock up where my ET lives in the morning mate, will take some pics if you still need them. can you let me know if youve sorted it.

Correct, taken from an EFE.

Please tell me how this post started out with my EFE callipers and ended with Katana's and your mum's Bendix washing machine?

Spot on Joseph, it was way ahead of its time so nobody could get their heads around the styling.

Always loved ET's, I was a sixteen year old apprentice joiner when they came out, I used to cycle past our local dealer on the way home from work and call in just to stare at one they had on a turntable stand until they kicked me out to lock up. The seed was well and truly planted.

I get what you're saying on the styling I don't like it, but I'm old enough to remember when the original was launched (1981?) Me and my mates all took a ride out to the local Suzuki dealer and everyone one of us thought it was horrible, now I love the old original. So you never know.

Tried to get my head around this one Dezza but gave up when smoke started coming out of my ears, I'm with Tony and reckon it's some sort of magic.

Ive always been led to believe grease to the back of the pads is a good thing, was told it eliminates squeal so ill put some on. Besides, im the one that asked the question so im in no position to argue with any suggestions. Thanks for the advice Tony

Thanks Tony, tried doing some research but opinion was devided on the subject, it was suggested that they helped to dissipate heat, that kind of made sense but I couldn't work out why metal would be used to achieve this. Would it help cut squeal if I apply copper grease to the back of the pads?

I'm in the process of rebuilding the standard Tokico callipers on my EFE. I've purchased new seals,pins, pad retaining springs and pads. My question is I have the old backing plates that sit behind the pads, what job do they do and do they have to be refitted? The reason being they are badly corroded so I'll need new ones. Cheers.

I know where you're coming from with the drying issues, I've discovered after many resprays that hammerite loves heat, so I give the subject a good hiding with a heat gun and blast it several times after each coat, seems to work perfect. There again we all have our own methods to get there. Black frames look cool on EFE's me thinks.