Ben Slabby

For the size difference, I'd go with the larger one, however if you're pushed for space, you might be able to get a deeper one to give more cooling area or fit an auxiliary one as a head cooler.

What are you looking for exactly?

Winning, cheers folks. I've stripped out what's left of the loom, getting a good look at what's to do. I'm in two minds what to do with the rear end, I've a rear wheel to go in with the spacers (ZXR, I think) that came out of Ziggys EF, so I'll go that route for now. @Rene EFE, the slabby shock fits ok? I've a nice refurbed one in the stash if so. @vizman, yes please. I'll sort something out re. collecting or whatever. @KATANAMANGLER, front wheel would be a big help, again, I'll sort something out. I think I'm going to have to start a project thread...

Was a great weekend and a pleasure to help out. Good to see you all again... Here's to the next one.

Dunno what time we'll be arriving, should be around midday. If I can lend a hand anywhere, just point me in the right direction.

Right, so I'm lucky enough to be in the club. The new project is fitted with original wheels and knackered forks. First job is some modern wheels and suspension... Now I'm thinking complete B12 front end, cheap and easy enough. Would I be better with heavier oil or springs, though? The question is, what's the best way to sort the arse end out? Just a wheel swap, and upgrade the shock? Recommendations for a decent shocker for the whale? TIA peeps.

Head south and look for lots of mo'bikes?

Cool... I'd best start cleaning it, that'll take long enough.

Replied, cheers.

Wheeee...! Looking forward to this.

Standard 32006 for the bottom bearing, and this one for the top: shop.marksman-ind.com/99-3540-5-30x47x12-taper-roller-bearing-32906-15086-p.asp Stem lengths are the same.

Just noticed that sites' proper name automatically filters to "eblag"... Fantastic.

Srad 750 on mine at the min, can't fault em. Tried em in Busa or TL yokes, can't remember which, the bottom yoke is slightly different, the forks taper in different places and the bottom yoke I had didn't grip the forks at the wide point. Top yoke is the same, AFAIK. Top bearing is a Marksman item from Eblag, I'll find the part number shortly.

RGV probably too lighly sprung, TL/Busa/SRAD 750 all all fit with the appropriate yokes and just a top bearing swap. Lockstops need modding. Gives plenty of choice of front wheel and calipers too. Total cost of front end swap on mine was probably around £150/200, but I clawed it back a bit selling the slabby front end.

Worst case scenario with the brass nuts is a nut splitter or hacksaw part way through, they're soft enough to cut off if you have to.

As above, stainless studs with brass nuts. Absolutely no problems. If you're gonna buy em on "that" site, search for M8 grub screws, they're tons cheaper.

That'll work with the Bandit CDI. AFAIK the connector should fit too.

With the ignition in the ON position, you should have continuity (zero ohms) between: RED and ORANGE BLACK and BROWN Then test between BLACK/WHITE and ORANGE/RED, which should show 100 Ohms

Looks great, gutted I couldn't make it.

If you go everywhere on WOT they might be OK.

Unless you use the Busa rods, I think.

Ash, I've got the GSXF 1100 rubbers on mine, from what I remember the OD of the 34's and the VM's are near-identical.

"secret shame of Northern leather perverts " It'd be too sweaty jiggling about in leather pants but maybe that's the attraction.

Yeah, I want a go this time. Might need a quieter pipe, mind.

Sounded bloody good too, KM.